Trailer slightly nose down...run it or level it?
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Trailer slightly nose down...run it or level it?
I posted this question in my 252 thread but figured I'd start a new thread for additional visibility.
When I first bought the boat, I ended up with a 3" rise ball mount to get everything pretty much level. Since then, I have gone up in tire/wheel size, and replaced the springs. These two things together added a couple inches of height to the trailer, so now it is sitting slightly nose down when connected to our SUV. Obviously level is ideal, but I've also read that slightly nose down is ok too. But there's no definition given on what "slightly" means, and the amount of compensation needed at the ball mount is not a good consistent measure IMO because for a given trailer frame angle, the ball mount compensation will vary depending on the distance between the axles and ball mount (longer distance = more compensation).
Based on my measurements this morning, I would need to go from a 3" raise ball mount to a 7" raise in order to level the trailer again. On the surface this seems simple. but I have some other considerations. First, my trailer jack is near the top of it's travel as it sits right now, so I'm pretty sure I'd have to replace it if I went with a taller ball mount (or at a minimum, carry around a chunk of 4x6 to put under the jack wheel). Second, the arrangement of the receiver on our SUV to the rear bumper limits my selection of ball mounts. It has to be one that angles upward as it goes away from the receiver rather than going straight up, or else it will rub on the plastic bumper above the hitch. This is the reason I don't use my B&W Tow & Stow adjustable mount. Third (and least important), the current 3" fits nicely along side the spare tire under the rear floor. I don't think a 7" raise mount would fit, and there's really no other good place to store it.
So...is leveling the trailer important enough that I should go through the effort and expense to get a bigger raise mount?
Here's a couple pics of how it sits now. Third pic is zoomed in to the fenders to show fender gap on the front and rear tires, as well as the angle of the spring equalizer, slightly visible between the tires.
When I first bought the boat, I ended up with a 3" rise ball mount to get everything pretty much level. Since then, I have gone up in tire/wheel size, and replaced the springs. These two things together added a couple inches of height to the trailer, so now it is sitting slightly nose down when connected to our SUV. Obviously level is ideal, but I've also read that slightly nose down is ok too. But there's no definition given on what "slightly" means, and the amount of compensation needed at the ball mount is not a good consistent measure IMO because for a given trailer frame angle, the ball mount compensation will vary depending on the distance between the axles and ball mount (longer distance = more compensation).
Based on my measurements this morning, I would need to go from a 3" raise ball mount to a 7" raise in order to level the trailer again. On the surface this seems simple. but I have some other considerations. First, my trailer jack is near the top of it's travel as it sits right now, so I'm pretty sure I'd have to replace it if I went with a taller ball mount (or at a minimum, carry around a chunk of 4x6 to put under the jack wheel). Second, the arrangement of the receiver on our SUV to the rear bumper limits my selection of ball mounts. It has to be one that angles upward as it goes away from the receiver rather than going straight up, or else it will rub on the plastic bumper above the hitch. This is the reason I don't use my B&W Tow & Stow adjustable mount. Third (and least important), the current 3" fits nicely along side the spare tire under the rear floor. I don't think a 7" raise mount would fit, and there's really no other good place to store it.
So...is leveling the trailer important enough that I should go through the effort and expense to get a bigger raise mount?
Here's a couple pics of how it sits now. Third pic is zoomed in to the fenders to show fender gap on the front and rear tires, as well as the angle of the spring equalizer, slightly visible between the tires.
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Last edited by thunder550 on Sun Mar 11, 2018 7:25 pm, edited 2 times in total.
1995 Cobalt 252 - 502 Mag EFI - Bravo 1 - 21" Revolution 4
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Re: Trailer slightly nose down...run it or level it?
Here's what it looks like leveled with the trailer jack.
Heights currently and after leveling. You can also see how the current ball mount angles up and away from the bumper. One that goes directly vertical off the draw bar shank won't work here, unless the shank is extra long.
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Re: Trailer slightly nose down...run it or level it?
Level riding is imperative if you have a torsion “rubber ride” suspension. If it’s not perfectly level, one axle will carry more weight than the other because torsion does not equalize. It’s tough on tires.
Looks like your trailer was equipped with self equalizing steel Springs, so leveling doesn’t matter at all. Each axle/tire will carry the same weight.
Looks like your trailer was equipped with self equalizing steel Springs, so leveling doesn’t matter at all. Each axle/tire will carry the same weight.
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Re: Trailer slightly nose down...run it or level it?
I think you just talked yourself into keeping her with the current set up, T550.
Btw, the OCD in me made me carry that 4 x 4 block of wood with me on our last boat so I could crank the trailer high enough to clear the hitch. PITA, but looked nice & level ....and only an occasional scrape on the sloped ramps. .
Btw, the OCD in me made me carry that 4 x 4 block of wood with me on our last boat so I could crank the trailer high enough to clear the hitch. PITA, but looked nice & level ....and only an occasional scrape on the sloped ramps. .
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Re: Trailer slightly nose down...run it or level it?
Yeah it's double-eye leaf springs with an equalizer.Tuscany wrote: Sun Mar 11, 2018 7:24 pm Level riding is imperative if you have a torsion “rubber ride” suspension. If it’s not perfectly level, one axle will carry more weight than the other because torsion does not equalize. It’s tough on tires.
Looks like your trailer was equipped with self equalizing steel Springs, so leveling doesn’t matter at all. Each axle/tire will carry the same weight.
I'm on the fence, which is why I'm trying to figure out if it's important or just a preference thing. My OCD wants it level tooAsLan7 wrote: Sun Mar 11, 2018 7:26 pm I think you just talked yourself into keeping her with the current set up, T550.![]()
Btw, the OCD in me made me carry that 4 x 4 block of wood with me on our last boat so I could crank the trailer high enough to clear the hitch. PITA, but looked nice & level ....and only an occasional scrape on the sloped ramps. .![]()
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Re: Trailer slightly nose down...run it or level it?
Can you replace the current jack with one that cranks higher? My last trailer did not allow that—thus the wood block.
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Re: Trailer slightly nose down...run it or level it?
The current jack is bolt-on, so assuming I could find one that jacks higher I could swap it with minimal effort. One nice thing about having a universal trailer rather than a custom one, everything is replaceable and adjustable.
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Re: Trailer slightly nose down...run it or level it?
Man, I wish I could have done that on our last trailer.thunder550 wrote: Sun Mar 11, 2018 7:35 pm The current jack is bolt-on, so assuming I could find one that jacks higher I could swap it with minimal effort.
Imho, that’s the route I’d go. Maybe use a 5” ball hitch combined with a jack that can crank 2” higher.
(it’s only money)
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Re: Trailer slightly nose down...run it or level it?
That may be a good compromise A7. From what I'm finding online, my current jack has 12" of travel. I'm not finding pull-pin swivel type jacks with more than that, but I'm wondering if I could go to a drop-leg jack like this one instead. If their description and my basic math are correct, it looks like it would hang down 4" below the trailer frame fully retracted, and has the ability to extend up to 33" below the bottom of the frame, which would be more than enough. That would also give me the ability to raise the front of the trailer enough to drain the bilge through the drain plug, which is something I can't do now.
https://www.amazon.com/Fulton-HD2500010 ... ck+bolt+on
The current ball mount that I have is also made in a 5" rise version, so that would get me halfway there. Next time I'm at the boat I'll mock that position up and see if the trailer looks level or if it's still noticeably tilted forward.
https://www.amazon.com/Fulton-HD2500010 ... ck+bolt+on
The current ball mount that I have is also made in a 5" rise version, so that would get me halfway there. Next time I'm at the boat I'll mock that position up and see if the trailer looks level or if it's still noticeably tilted forward.
Last edited by thunder550 on Sun Mar 11, 2018 7:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Trailer slightly nose down...run it or level it?
Yes, I had the drop-leg jack with no issues...other than it was not a bolt on like yours will be.
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Re: Trailer slightly nose down...run it or level it?
Well I love giving you advice that costs money. So this time with the boat going down hill all the time you will get better gas mileage. Bonus! 
With the boat low in the front end will put more weight on your tiny suv. Even though you say it's close to a Tahoe which I wouldn't pull with either. You need a new truck and a painted trailer. lol
So your tires could wear more. I personally wouldn't worry about it till the second time you look at your boat hitched up and it drives you nuts. Then buy a draw bar that works. You can buy one with a long shaft so it sticks out further and it won't hit your bumper. That sounds dirty
With the boat low in the front end will put more weight on your tiny suv. Even though you say it's close to a Tahoe which I wouldn't pull with either. You need a new truck and a painted trailer. lol
So your tires could wear more. I personally wouldn't worry about it till the second time you look at your boat hitched up and it drives you nuts. Then buy a draw bar that works. You can buy one with a long shaft so it sticks out further and it won't hit your bumper. That sounds dirty
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Re: Trailer slightly nose down...run it or level it?
Well here's a 7" rise ball mount too. I guess if I'm going to do it I might as well do it right.
https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-Hitches ... ball+mount
https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-Hitches ... ball+mount
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Re: Trailer slightly nose down...run it or level it?
They sell them at UHaul & Walmart too. Also Pep Boys.
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Re: Trailer slightly nose down...run it or level it?
I don't know if you will have the clearance for that one. The shaft with the pin in it seems awful short.thunder550 wrote: Sun Mar 11, 2018 8:03 pm Well here's a 7" rise ball mount too. I guess if I'm going to do it I might as well do it right.
https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-Hitches ... ball+mount
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Re: Trailer slightly nose down...run it or level it?
Awesome, that sounds like the ticket.AsLan7 wrote: Sun Mar 11, 2018 7:58 pm Yes, I had the drop-leg jack with no issues...other than it was not a bolt on like yours will be.
Boat going downhill all the timeBig Block Power wrote: Sun Mar 11, 2018 7:58 pm Well I love giving you advise that costs money. So this time with the boat going down hill all the time you will get better gas mileage. Bonus!
With the boat low in the front end will put more weight on your tiny suv. Even though you say it's close to a Tahoe which I wouldn't pull with either. You need a new truck and a painted trailer.lol
So your tires could wear more. I personally wouldn't worry about it till the second time you look at your boat hitched up and it drives you nuts. Then buy a draw bar that works. You can buy one with a long shaft so it sticks out further and it won't hit your bumper. That sounds dirty![]()
Thanks BBP, I can always count on you for a laugh (and I hate to admit it, but good advice too), while my wallet gets lighter and lighter
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