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Going to be removing the oxidation on my boat can post some before and after pics if anyone is intrigued
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I use the Flex dual action orbiter polisher. It’s a good product although MnLB has some better options if you search his posts.
I’m not a fan of the foam pads. Spend the money for wool pads. It’s worth it to cut through the oxidation.
Lake Country makes a nice 6.5” wool pad with hook and loop fastener that fits the Flex.
Yes your going to want to start out with a wool pad then work yourself to the foam pad. I didn't look at what they are supplying for product's I'm a 3m guy along with bum of course. Did they give you a nice cutting compound to start with? Also I know the ones that I have buffed because of the registration numbers I had to wet sand first. It just saves a bunch of elbow grease.
03Cobalt220 8.1gxi DP
"Kids in Tow2"
"Pot The Jus" Originator :-)
Neenah Wi
#ItsBu'sfault
#FARCON Marine CC Core!
Big Block Power wrote: ↑Sun Mar 22, 2020 8:41 am
Yes your going to want to start out with a wool pad then work yourself to the foam pad. I didn't look at what they are supplying for product's I'm a 3m guy along with bum of course. Did they give you a nice cutting compound to start with? Also I know the ones that I have buffed because of the registration numbers I had to wet sand first. It just saves a bunch of elbow grease.
Agreeeeee completely!
I was amazed how hard the gelcoat on a Cobalt was when I pulled my reg numbers off.
Cobalt brags about there hardening process. They aren’t kidding.
I also lightly wet sanded, then used a wool pad to polish.
The foam pads are just for applying sealants. Or practicing
Meguairs Microfiber pads will cut as well. I've been pretty happy using them on ours. I really haven't had to do much polishing, except for cleaning up the fender marks. And it cleans that up in 30 seconds. I then switch to a foam pad for a final polish and wax. More spreading around the wax than anything.
I use Babe’s products, the spot remover and boat bright. Wipe the boat down with boat bright after every use..weekend etc. I love it, and it smells great. Give it a try
Cobalt 292, white with blue sport stripes, twin Volvo 5.7’s.
my boat was ceramic coated and used 1/2 a season. she looks amazing. I am guessing I should avoid waxing, but for how long? I ordered some hot sauce from boatbling for weekly cleaning.
Chrispval wrote: ↑Sun Apr 19, 2020 8:48 am
my boat was ceramic coated and used 1/2 a season. she looks amazing. I am guessing I should avoid waxing, but for how long? I ordered some hot sauce from boatbling for weekly cleaning.
What was the recommendation to clean but not remove the ceramic properties?
Like nitrogen in the tires.. people are afraid to add normal air. Brilliant return to me tactic.
You don't want to wax on top of a ceramic coating. You will need to polish off the ceramic coating before you could apply wax again.
You also don't want to wash with any kind of soap that has any sort of wax in it, for starters. It tends to smear on ceramic coatings. I prefer Adams Polishes blue shampoo as it has no wax.
Then you want to use a "topper" with some sort of SiO2 content in it. CarPro Reload is my topper of choice. You only need to do this about once every 6 months or so on a vehicle that gets regular washings. There's other drying aids that will work as well, I've just been stuck on Reload for a couple years as it has always worked well and was one of the originals.
Thanks for the specific instruction. Prior owner dropped all the money on ceramic, and I happily inherited it, I figured not to wax, and to use a ph appropriate soap.
Sorry to revive a long dead thread, but could someone point me to a good write up or video on how to properly buff/wax and what tools/products they recommend. I’ve been looking at dewalts rotary polisher with a wool pad and 3Ms medium cutting compound + wax “one step” product.
My 220 has some pretty bad water spots and I really want to get it shined up.
Check out what this guy was able to achieve with a nasty Cobalt gelcoat and NO wetsanding
This short video is just him showing off a little. His longer videos give a much better idea of his process and gelcoat philosophy. He used to be with Deckhand Detail in Seattle, and has done literally 150 boats per year for the last sixteen years. He claims that of all those boats perhaps two would have gone faster with wetsanding.
The vast majority of boats would not need the 3M Super Duty as the first step according to his other videos.
I’m hoping to try his ideas and methods on my boat in a couple of months.
2007 Cobalt 240 with Merc 496 MAG Bravo 3
1977 18’ Beachcraft with Ford 302 V8 OMC 190
Whiskey Slough Marina
Holt, CA
cmattj wrote: ↑Thu Sep 19, 2019 6:32 am
In using polymer waxes from Bio-Kleen, I use the polymer spray as well for the next day when I couldn’t wipe it down on a late night boating.
It removes spots, and adds a polymer layer with a almost evaporative application. ( No odor)
Loce it!
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Bio-Kleen M00907 Shine Spray Wax, 32 oz.
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Matt, have you used hot sauce? If so how would this Bio Kleen product compare?
Titaniumboy wrote: ↑Sat Feb 05, 2022 8:40 pm
Check out what this guy was able to achieve with a nasty Cobalt gelcoat and NO wetsanding
This short video is just him showing off a little. His longer videos give a much better idea of his process and gelcoat philosophy. He used to be with Deckhand Detail in Seattle, and has done literally 150 boats per year for the last sixteen years. He claims that of all those boats perhaps two would have gone faster with wetsanding.
The vast majority of boats would not need the 3M Super Duty as the first step according to his other videos.
I’m hoping to try his ideas and methods on my boat in a couple of months.
Well that’s got me sold on getting a rotary polisher for cutting…might as well pick up a DA polisher for waxing while I’m at it.
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