Annual Maintenance - V8-300 2014

[billk2632]

Recently purchased a 2014 R5 with a Volvo V8-300 (5.7 raw water cooled) and a DPS-B drive. I have years of experience with Mercruiser, but this is my first Volvo. The previous owner was religious about maintenance and always had the dealer do everything. I am more of a DIY'er, but do try to know my limits. It was pretty hard to get into trouble with my most recent SeaRay with a Mercruiser 4.3 Alpha I. I did about everything on that engine, including carburetor rebuilds and bellows, waterpump impeller etc. The Volvo, at least to me now is a different animal - much is the same, some things a little more complex and different.

So a couple of questions on how you all do things. I usually do all of this in the fall so the boat is ready to go in the spring. Boat is stored indoors in a dry storage and is not heated, although it rarely gets below freezing in the building.

Engine oil - Which oil / filter do you use? Volvo or other? I have the cartridge style oil filter and noticed it is the same filter and change process as my Volvo car.

Outdrive Gearlube - Seems similar to Merc Bravo III, have to remove the props with special prop removal tool. Assume use Volvo gearlube? I am not equipped to pull the drive at this point, so I might leave this service to the dealer this year. The pull the drive inspect bellows/gimbal bearing, alignment and change the gear lube.

Water Pump Impeller - On a Volvo it looks pretty darn simple compared to any of the Mercs. Previous own had this changed every year, is that the interval? I have also seen every 2 years. What do you do?

Winterizing - Draining the block and manifolds looks straight forward - I have the blue plugs, no quick drain. Do you fog the engine and if so how, I think Volvo recommends running a mix of 2 cycle through. My carbureted Merc, I just sprayed from a can down the carb, but I am not so sure that is acceptable with throttle body fuel injection. What do you do? Also, do you fill the block/manifolds with antifreeze or leave it dry?

[stifflkd]

If you have injectors go the 2 cycle approach. If carb spray fogging oil down the carb. I add antifreeze after draining. Theory being it should dilute any water remaining in the cracks and crevices. I inspect the impeller every year and replace every 2 years or so. Having the pump on the block it is fairly easy to replace if needed. With the alpha's I would change religiously every two years since if it goes bad it means a haul out. For oils and lube go the VP brand. There is not alot of after market stuff for VP anyway unlike Merc. With an 8 yr old boat definitely pull the drive and have the bellows, gimbal and U-joint looked at and they can replace the gearlube as well. PS don't forget to add stabilizer to a full tank. I have a tank full view. Others may disagree.

[billk2632]

Thanks, good info most of which I figured or knew, but nice to have someone confirm. As far as fogging, mine is throttle body injection, so no injectors, but not an old fashion carburetor either. Have heard spraying fogging oil down a throttle body can cause problems -- I think Volvo recommends the 2 cycle approach, so might just do that. I pretty much stuck with Quicksilver oils, filters, etc so don't see any reason not to do the same with the Volvo.

[bruceb58]

When was the last time you pulled your drive. I am a believer in pulling it every year or every other year.

Also, if you have never changed your u-joint bellows, you are due.

[ajcampen]

I do the two cycle approach. I have a portable fuel tank and I make a mix of it per instructions from merc (I have a nerf but same process) I then attach that to the fuel filter area (for me the cool fuel module).

As far as winterizing, I have a large kiddie pool and a pump that forces the liquid to the outdrive. I pull all my plugs then run the boat from the swimming pool for 5-10 min.

I also found spin on ceo Hector’s for hooking up the fuel tank. There is a post I made back in 2018 somewhere on here

[stifflkd]

Thanks, good info most of which I figured or knew, but nice to have someone confirm. As far as fogging, mine is throttle body injection, so no injectors, but not an old fashion carburetor either. Have heard spraying fogging oil down a throttle body can cause problems -- I think Volvo recommends the 2 cycle approach, so might just do that. I pretty much stuck with Quicksilver oils, filters, etc so don't see any reason not to do the same with the Volvo.

Throttle body falls into the injector side. I would go with the 2-cycle approach on that.

[billk2632]

So I winterized the boat his weekend -- very easy, not a lot different from my Mercruiser. A couple of interesting things I found out when buying some parts from the Cobalt / Volvo dealer.

I had the dealer service the drive this year (I need to buy a prop tool for next year). They pulled the drive, inspected bellows etc. greased U-Joints, gimbal bearing, changed gear lube and checked alignment.

Was chatting with the service and parts managers:
- They don't fill the engine with antifreeze, just drain it - I drained and filled it, makes me feel better!
- They fog using the 2 cycle mix - that's what I did.
For the oil change, they sold me Volvo 10w30 mineral oil, not synthetic. Didn't say I should not use synthetic and were happy to sell it to me, just that this was what had been used in that boat since they sold it new and as he put it this was what they used in all the older 4.3,5.0,5.7 Volvo motors. The new and bigger motors get 10w40 synthetic (assume he means the Gen5's and old 8.1's).

From my manual:
Engine Oil Specifications
Whenever oil is added to the engine, we strongly recommend the use of Volvo Penta gasoline engine oils
approved for catalytic converters. These oils are engineered to meet all of the requirements of your catalyst
engine and are formulated specifically for marine
engines. These oils are available at Volvo Penta dealers.
If the Volvo Penta oils are not available, use high
quality oil that meets API SM and/or ILSAC GF-4 specifications. Viscosity should be SAE 5W30 or higher
(example: 10W30, 10W40, 15W50). Straight 30W oil
is also acceptable if it meets the API SM and/or ILSAC
GF-4 specifications. Do not use 0W30 or any W20 oils
(example: 5W20).

Not looking to start an oil thread, but I am curious what others are doing. Remember this is a 2014 R5 with a Gen 4 V8-300 (5.7).

[stifflkd]

Go with the Sierra equivalent and save a few bucks. As long as it meets the same API specifications and weights specified in your manual you will be fine. Neither refine their oil. They buy it from the same supplier who slaps their label on it.

[billk2632]

Yeah, understand that Volvo does not make their own oil. Not looking to save $$ so much, the convenience of buying it right there at the marina is worth the few extra dollars for me. I guess my reason for posting is I was surprised they recommended the regular 10w30 and not the synthetic. But figure there are thousands of GM 5.7's that have gone millions of miles in cars and trucks and 1000's of hours in boats on plain old 10w30. Heck, we ran Valvoline 30wt in our Correct Craft -- 2000hrs and it still ran fine when we sold it!

What are you running in your R5?

[AsLan7]

.
We run synthetic oil in everything we own. The oil molecules are smaller and of more uniform size so they produce a more even film that does a better job of keeping metal components from touching each other. Synthetics also have more sophisticated additives that provide stable viscosity across a wider temperature range and reduce friction, especially at startup.

That being said, one of the main benefits of synthetics is the fact that you could go longer between oil changes but that is really a moot point for boaters since we change the oil annually anyway. So it really comes down to how much wear difference occurs between the two categories and does the price justify that difference. That’s the rub (no pun intended).

Is it worth paying extra money for the added benefits synthetics offer? You’ll have to decide for yourself. For us the peace of mind is worth it. We own a Cobalt for goodness sake!

.

.

[stifflkd]

Yeah, understand that Volvo does not make their own oil. Not looking to save $$ so much, the convenience of buying it right there at the marina is worth the few extra dollars for me. I guess my reason for posting is I was surprised they recommended the regular 10w30 and not the synthetic. But figure there are thousands of GM 5.7's that have gone millions of miles in cars and trucks and 1000's of hours in boats on plain old 10w30. Heck, we ran Valvoline 30wt in our Correct Craft -- 2000hrs and it still ran fine when we sold it!

What are you running in your R5?

I use the 10W40 synthetic for catalytic convertors as specified in the manual. I used the VP brand the first year and switched to the Sierra this year. I actually find it a lot easier finding Sierra products than VP.

[Krob1114]

(I need to buy a prop tool for next year).

I have Volvo prop tool that's never been used. I have Volvo V8 300 DP.
I was injured and found a local mechanic that took care of my boat at such a reasonable price, that I won't be doing it again.
I think it's on the boat so I won't be able to get to it until probably May of 2023 if you can wait.

[billk2632]

I would be interested in your prop tool, I won’t need until next year, probably in the fall.