Cobalt Boats Forum

I would be afraid of the SS plugs in the iron engine block = corrosion. Brass would be a better option - the OEM are plastic for this reason.

Going to take a look at the boat Sunday - didnt make it up all winter since a put it away in November. Its been covered up in an enclosed dry storage building.

Used boat pricing is tough, unlike cars, there is just not enough sales data to rely on the used vehicle sites like NADA. Brokers have access to the actual sales data from sites like BoatTrader - not what asking prices are, what they actually sold for - that's what you need. All that said, I would ...

The SeaDeck on my R5 swim deck is showing it's age after 10yrs - it's held up pretty good, but it's time to do something. I think I am going to remove it myself (I know probably a tedious job) and see how I like it without anything. The SeaDeck get's incredibly hot, we constantly pour water over it ...

Ok - yeah looks like that is the only way. Not sure why they mounted it so high, maybe to keep it above the water line?

Anyone have an idea how to remove the basket from the strainer on an R5 head? I know you unscrew the cap on top and lift the basket out, but on my R5, the strainer seems to be mounted to close the deck - there is not enough room to lift the basket out. Am I missing something?

At the topic says - my 2014 VP300 (5.7) has developed a small oil leak. At this point it is very small, I am seeing a few drops of oil in the bilge every few hours of run time. Almost 100% sure it's the timing cover/oilplan gasket as the drip is at the very bottom where they match up. The 4.3 ...

Maybe see what each are selling for used just to have an idea of the value of each. But if the R3 is what you want (I would want one over the CS) and you are ok with the value difference I would do it. Doubt a dealer would do a trade like that even and certainly not pay you. I feel a deal like this ...

Assuming you have a newer system where the trim pump is build into the transom assembly outside the boat. The “part” I used is a custom switch that Cobalt makes and puts in boats at the factory. Nothing special, a Carling switch and the wiring harness. I looked all over for something, but had my ...

Thanks for the replies! I did call my Cobalt dealer and they said the same thing about the repair being more expensive than replacement. So I did order a new swim step. It was $375.00. It has to be made by Cobalt since they don't keep a stock. They told me 6-8 weeks!


Wow, a lot less $$ than I ...

For a temporary fix I would sand/cleanup the loose stuff and use Marine Tex to seal it up. Later you will need to take it off, remove the SeaDeck etc and do a permanent repair. Marine Tex is a thickened colored epoxy - what you need at least for now to seal all that back up, keep water out of it and ...

Should be in the port side underseat storage compartment where the battery switch is.

It depends on a filter on the pickup - some do some don't. If it did get sucked up, it would not make it past the anti siphon valve and it could cause a restriction - doubt it could make it to the fuel filter. You should be able to pull the sender out of the tank and get a look inside and possibly ...

Pictures! You will really enjoy having it, a must have for me after years of lugging in anchors on my old SeaRay. Might want to add that switch in the locker, that's the one I use almost always especially when retrieving. As far as the chain, I think I have 100ft, but I rarely anchor in more than ...

You do not want to overfill the tanks on these boats by topping off. Doing this will cause gas to overflow into the charcoal cannister saturating it with fuel. Not saying you did this, but if someone did it will mess up the charcoal filter and cause smells. Those two plugs you are referring to are ...