Trailer loading a R5

[AsLan7]

AsLan7, thanks for the welcome, I've already found the forum interesting and helpful. I appreciate your input and suggestion on launching with a slightly loose strap to determine best depth for retrieval, I'm going to give that a shot. I feel as though I'm putting the trailer in pretty deep, deeper than I have with any other previous boat, but I also realize this boat is much taller and heavier than i've previously had. Maybe i'm just not deep enough yet...I'll keep trying. I definitely have not been below the bow roller yet, so that is not a problem. Trial and error I suppose.

Sure!

Yes, you are not deep enough.

On my last set up (& normally most trailers) you only need to have the trailer fender wells just below the waterline to launch and recover.

On our current set up, it requires a little deeper with the front top corners of the support boards to be under. The good thing is that my wife can crank this 5,000 pound boat up to about 90% of complete. I'll finish it for her. She's not very large either.

[jeffmeag]

AsLan7 - Thanks for the edit and photo. Given what you said I'm not deep enough yet. If you're going in with the front support boards just under, up to the front cross beam, I need to give that a try. I am currently just getting the fenders under water, not up to the front cross beam. Quick question, do you have any issue with the boat centering on the trailer given that depth?

Tuscany/BBP, I'm also going to try leaving it in gear with trim UP Sounds like a good thought to hold it in place while cranking.

[Tuscany]

As far as the prop hitting while loading.. Remember when the boat is loading up on the trailer, the trailer height itself will insure prop clearance. 50% is safe.
Also, when in very deep, load guides are mandatory IMO. When in deep, the rear of a heavy boat is farther above the trailer with nothing to hold it still. It will float around slightly, and not so slightly if there is a strong breeze or slight current.

[AsLan7]

AsLan7 - Thanks for the edit and photo. Given what you said I'm not deep enough yet. If you're going in with the front support boards just under, up to the front cross beam, I need to give that a try. I am currently just getting the fenders under water, not up to the front cross beam. Quick question, do you have any issue with the boat centering on the trailer given that depth?

Tuscany/BBP, I'm also going to try leaving it in gear with trim UP Sounds like a good thought to hold it in place while cranking.

You will have no issues if you use that 2" strap method I mentioned.

Yes, we had to be in deeper with this Trail-rite trailer as it sits higher than our previous Cobalt Dorsey trailer

Again I SLOWLY drive our 263 onto trailer at 50% drive height. When bow slowly connects with those middle guide boards, I'm normally in idle. Then when boat stops,I'll kill the engine or make any last minute adjustment to slightly re-center boat by turning wheel and putting into gear momentarily.

Boat will not move around that much if you use the 2" method mentioned earlier.

Btw, you should NEVER need much power at any time. In fact it is highly discouraged as this will erode the ramp area underwater.

[Tuscany]

Wow, my combo loads so differently. I have to power the hell out of it, that is unless I back the trailer in to where I can see fish out of the back window of my truck
Maybe my bunks need to be worn in because they really grip.
In order to launch our boat, I have to back way in and spike the brakes to break it loose from the bunks.

[AsLan7]

Wow, my combo loads so differently. I have to power the hell out of it, that is unless I back the trailer in to where I can see fish out of the back window of my truck
Maybe my bunks need to be worn in because they really grip.
In order to launch our boat, I have to back way in and spike the brakes to break it loose from the bunks.

As you know, every ramp is different, T.

I will tell you that PA ramps are some of the steepest I have ever seen. (Vs my parent's boat ramps in Maryland where angles are quite shallow). Not sure how jeffmeag Illinois ramps are regarding steepness.

The good thing about steeper ramps is easier boat loading and unloading. The downside is that longer trailers will scrape at the "hump". (Our 262 trailer we previously owned would scrape a cross member even with a 6" drop hitch turned upside down!i

Ramp characteristics can certainly make a difference.

[cmattj]

My offshore boats with high nose and dead rise used to be easy..
My Cobalt like most lay flat chine wise so you need to go Deep until the rear wheels are wet..

You don't want to crank it more that a manual winch as you can rip bunk material and worse to your beautiful boat..

I've seen trailers with the liners that are slippery but launching it may be tooo easy

Find a steeper ramp or lower profile trailer tires as you don't want rear axel vents or seals to touch water..
Here's a pic of the plastic guides.. there are many bunk slides out there.

[AsLan7]

"as you don't want rear axel vents or seals to touch water..".

Another good point.
Imho, this rule applies more to salt water ramps due to the destructive nature of the water which can wreak havoc on all parts of a trailer--particularly bearings.

Never had an issue in 22 years with fresh water --particularly if you use bearing buddies or some type of "pressure" bearing protector.

[Bfun220]

AsLan7 - Thanks for the edit and photo. Given what you said I'm not deep enough yet. If you're going in with the front support boards just under, up to the front cross beam, I need to give that a try. I am currently just getting the fenders under water, not up to the front cross beam. Quick question, do you have any issue with the boat centering on the trailer given that depth?

Tuscany/BBP, I'm also going to try leaving it in gear with trim UP Sounds like a good thought to hold it in place while cranking.

You will have no issues if you use that 2" strap method I mentioned.

Yes, we had to be in deeper with this Trail-rite trailer as it sits higher than our previous Cobalt Dorsey trailer

Again I SLOWLY drive our 263 onto trailer at 50% drive height. When bow slowly connects with those middle guide boards, I'm normally in idle. Then when boat stops,I'll kill the engine or make any last minute adjustment to slightly re-center boat by turning wheel and putting into gear momentarily.

Boat will not move around that much if you use the 2" method mentioned earlier.

Btw, you should NEVER need much power at any time. In fact it is highly discouraged as this will erode the ramp area underwater.

I think the 2" strap idea would give you the perfect starting point. Maybe a little fine tuning but I would think his method would get you just about on the money.

[cmattj]

"as you don't want rear axel vents or seals to touch water..".


Never had an issue in 22 years with fresh water --particularly if you use bearing buddies or some type of "pressure" bearing protector.

Haha.. i was referring to the tow vehicle rear axle going under water.. It was late when I posted

Let me throw this at you.. After reviewing his tow rig pics. Im wondering if the shortness of rear axle to hitch makes putting it deeper in seem more uncomfortable as apposed to a standard Chevy truck where the over hang to the hitch is longer.. Just a thought...

I never power on our boats. Float them on and crank up to the bow roller. last few inches of tight resistance is the sweet spot. Pull forward and watch the boat center in the rear view with your fingers crossed you left an inch of bunk hanging past the transom.

[Bfun220]

[/quote]

Haha.. i was referring to the tow vehicle rear axle going under water.. It was late when I posted

Let me throw this at you.. After reviewing his tow rig pics. Im wondering if the shortness of rear axle to hitch makes putting it deeper in seem more uncomfortable as apposed to a standard Chevy truck where the over hang to the hitch is longer.. Just a thought...
[/quote]
He is currently using a f350.

[Tuscany]

I built this trailer long, and I added 3' extra to the tongue of my last trailer.
I like the bow of the boat at least 7' behind the hitch. Anything less makes it a wet proposition to recover the boat. A 7' space usually keeps the rear axle out of the water, and on my truck it does.. but it takes a lot more depth on my boat to float the front of the hull.

[Big Block Power]

My rule of thumb not finger. Was to get the trailer all the way in the water dunk the bunks get them all wet and pull ahead till the front 1/4 of the fender is showing. Normally don't have a issue. This trailer I go a bit deeper but I still have some fender showing. If I get the fenders under the water it loads uneven every time.

[AsLan7]

I built this trailer long, and I added 3' extra to the tongue of my last trailer.
I like the bow of the boat at least 7' behind the hitch. Anything less makes it a wet proposition to recover the boat. A 7' space usually keeps the rear axle out of the water, and on my truck it does.. but it takes a lot more depth on my boat to float the front of the hull.

I always loved those guide posts, T. Had that with my Fountain and it was so easy to guide on the boat-- even during our brief time river boating where you also have currents to deal with in addition to the winds and other boaters waiting to launch or retrieve.

Btw, with how busy our boat ramps are, it delays quite a few folks when boater's do that "float on" method you are talking about. I don't think this is what you are doing but they will come in...tie up at the ramp...get their tow rig and in the meantime block the ramp as everyone waits on them. We call these folks "Mr. U-planets" as the world revolves around them while they launch or retrieve. Again--not saying this is what you are doing--just what we have observed at the boat ramps thru the many years.

It certainly is easier if there is a courtesy dock as folks just wait in line and move up one by one until their tow rig comes in sight at which time they head toward the ramp.

Hopefully your ramp is not as crowded as some of these can be (like on 4th of July weekend).

It really works like an assembly line at our marina ramp as 4 boats at a time are pulled out of the water like a well oiled machine (with exceptions of course)...one person pulls their boat out...the next trailer waiting to retrieve their boat backs down (usually my wife who I already dropped off while I wait in the water or at the courtesy dock)....while I'm on the boat I just monitor the ramp and as I see it's our turn-- when my wife is next up, I'll start to motor toward the ramp where I then slowly power it onto the trailer that she just backed down...connect...winch....pull her out. Easy as pie and very quick and efficient as no one waits on us.

btw, one of my favorite things to do is to go to a restaurant that is located next to a boat ramp. Sit on the deck, eat, and watch the festivities take place. I'm sure you and I could write a book (on forgotten drain plugs alone).

[jeffmeag]

Tuscany-I had the same problem with mine (hence the questions). I applied liquid rollers to my bunks as they were new and very grippy as well. I also had to spike the brakes to launch the boat, but now with the liquid rollers, it slides right off very easy. However, this is part of my loading problem (which the liquid roller didn't help) because now when I load onto the trailer and get the bow eye close to the roller, it tends to slide back down the bunks before I can get the winch attached and tightened down. I'm going to try going in deeper as AsLan7 suggested and will probably also try leaving it in gear to hold it in place. I really don't like having to use full power to get it on (due to erosion that was mentioned) but have found myself having to do so at some points......