2003 8.1 Volvo Penta muliple attemps to start

[cwbruder1]

I just got a 2003 263 with a 8.1 penta. It takes 10 -15 attempts to get it to start. It turns over, sounds like it’s gonna fire but doesn’t. Once it does start and is warm, it fires right up. It has new gas and fuel filter. The prior owner seems to think it’s something with the ignition switch. Has anyone had any experience with this?

[jhnmdahl]

How old is the battery? It could be that the battery is a bit weak, the ignition switch is corroded, etc. - it takes less energy to start a warm engine than a cold one. It could also be a vacuum leak, clogged injectors, bad plugs or plug wires, or a number of other such things.

New gas and filter sound like a good step, but on the fuel side I'd try a fuel injector cleaner like Techron (I've used Seafoam for the same thing, but Techron is supposed to be better) and see if it cleans out anything in your fuel system.

Hopefully others who have been down this road will chime in as well.

[cwbruder1]

Thanks,it has two new batteries. Ill look into those other things

[AsLan7]

So glad you found us cwb….1

I’d start with the easy items first like fresh gas; new fuel filter and clean the flame arrestor.

It may be a fuel pump or fp module relay issue . The VP 8.1 Gi is known for fuel pump issues. A failing pump or relay may not build pressure quickly, requiring multiple cycles to get fuel to the engine. Once started, it has enough pressure for faster starts.

Best thing would be to get the engine codes read by a tech with a scanner (unless you have one already).

Keep us posted.

And welcome aboard mate.

.

[Double E]

Pull the distributor cap and clean the contacts & rotor. (It has a distributor and not coil-on-plug, right?)
Easy and cheap first steps...
Pull a few plugs to assess condition in addition to the above suggestions.
Ignition switch is possible but I don't go in this direction first since a warm start "should" not affect an ignition switch condition.
My on 7.4L was stumbling to accelerate off idle and took a few more cranks to run from cold until I swapped the cap and rotor. It probably would have gotten worse. Just cleaning it might have saved me some $ but it was 25 years old, so out it went.

[AsLan7]

Pull the distributor cap and clean the contacts & rotor. (It has a distributor and not coil-on-plug, right?)
Easy and cheap first steps...
Pull a few plugs to assess condition in addition to the above suggestions.
Ignition switch is possible but I don't go in this direction first since a warm start "should" not affect an ignition switch condition.
My on 7.4L was stumbling to accelerate off idle and took a few more cranks to run from cold until I swapped the cap and rotor. It probably would have gotten worse. Just cleaning it might have saved me some $ but it was 25 years old, so out it went.

These 2000 Series 263 models do not have a traditional distributor with a rotor. They have a flat, plastic-encased Delco EST electronic module with two multi-pin prongs pointing outward.

[SeattleA28]

Agree with the feedback above. Might also be worth replacing the Idle Air Control (IAC) muffler, which can cause challenges starting and rough idle. Very cheap and easy to fix.

[cwbruder1]

Fixed it, the ignition switch was miss wired from prior owner. Rewired it. Starts every time now.

[jhnmdahl]

Fixed it, the ignition switch was miss wired from prior owner. Rewired it. Starts every time now.

It's hard to guess what a previous owner might have done, especially with all the things that can go wrong with even a well-maintained engine. Thanks for reporting back!

[Titaniumboy]

Nice troubleshooting.

I’m having trouble envisioning how an ignition switch could be miswired so that it only worked part of the time?