Tell me about/show me your barn/garage

[2ridgebacks]

I'm getting close to contracting for a detached building. I started at 48x84, but I think I've pulled back to a more realistic 48x64. Looking for insight on size, concrete when we build, loft space, just your general experience and anything you would have done differently or things that have worked our really well.
I'm totally guilty of overthinking this thing by about 3 years. Too many options, and too many decisions. I'm still not fully committed to a construction technique (steel, stick, or pole barn). I know at some point I'll be out there 12 mos. a year, but not yet. For now, it's for off season storage of the boat, a 34' ancient motorhome that I'm not attached to, general auto tinkering, dirt bikes, batting cage, air pistol/archery range, big ass space to hang out and drink beer.
Comments welcome, pics are better.

[AsLan7]

Tuscany will be sure to chime in on this one.

In the meantime here is a great thread read...

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=534

[2ridgebacks]

That is great! I can't believe I haven't seen it.

[Driller]

T is the expert.

[Tuscany]

I would suggest Morton Buildings. Should be an office in your area.
Definitely not the cheapest, but without doubt the most professional, reputable, and with the best warranty.
I put up two of them last year.
One 36 x 60 warehouse at our business, and a 36 x 45 at home.
Both experiences very pleasant.


Lots to consider.
Site work with at least a foot of screened gravel.
The building design itself. My wife designed the exterior with the Morton rep, and she did the lighting.
Heating/insulation/interior metal/amount of electrical/lighting/concrete/windows/doors/water/property tax assessment increase.
You could certainly get it done cheaper with an independent, but in the end, you get exactly what you pay for.

[cmattj]

Great night shot T!.. what a build it was!!

[2ridgebacks]

Very nice T. Are you happy with the depth? It looks like the boat fills the bay completely.

[Tuscany]

Our priorities were to fit the boat, and build an attractive building to go with the house. Personally, I am not one to cut corners on what we do. I take proper site work, drainage and aesthetics as serious as the building itself.

The obvious?
Could the building be bigger? Always, always, always, but there are different levels of finish, and they all cost to build and add to tax assessment. Morton's standard widths for our needs were 36' or 42'. Custom sizes were available, but cost more. We sized it to fit the boat in the left bay, and to heat it efficiently.

Pick your poisons..
Site work/clearing with possible tree removal, bulldozing to remove clay/top soil from the build site, a compacted gravel base isn't cheap to install.
Then the building itself. Ginger bread, possible interior finish with insulation, doors/openers, windows, entry doors, roof run off collection and drainage/floor drainage. Running utilities, depending if you want water/natural gas, telephone, cable, electric service, lighting & wiring. Add in concrete, driveway pavement, top soil/seeding. Its always a list of priorities, and none are inexpensive.
Add all of that up, and your building size will come into focus.

Would I do anything different? Nope.

[2ridgebacks]

No kidding. That’s why I took 20’ off of the length. I’ve been strongly advised to concrete the floor when I build the building or it won’t get done.
Most of the site work is done. We dozed out the hillside 3 yrs ago. We need to fine tune the drainage and get a base in. I’ll likely have the shell built and do the rest myself. Too many options. Thanks for the useful insight T.

[Tuscany]

Concrete...
Chances are whatever it is that you don't finish at build time, you will never get done!
Best of luck. If I can somehow help you with questions, please let me know.

[Alaskabound]

2R, I had a 40' x 60' constructed about 10 years ago, used National Barns just north of Nashville. They were great to work with. Had concrete poured at same time. The height was important to me as I had a 5th wheel(motorhome now). I have 2 14' sliding doors at each end and ceiling height of 16'. Mine is not finished as nice as T's. I did have water run to a sink and had 200 amp electric box installed with 20 amp circuits. Had 2 drains installed in floor. I had ceiling insulated but no heat. I use a 200k btu topedo heater which has worked out fine for me. About the only thing I would do different is to install more lighting. I'm in the process now of putting in LEDs to replace fluorescent lights. One other thing we had installed was about 8 "frosted" side windows which allow some natural light to come in. I will be out of town for another week before I could post any pictures but will try to do then. Ask any questions.

Dub

[Big Block Power]

Concrete...
Chances are whatever it is that you don't finish at build time, you will never get done!

This is the best advise anyone can give you.
I used it when we built our house for the basement. I knew if I didn't finish it then it was never getting finished. I didn't want to touch my house once it was built and other than a few repair spots to the garage. Ok I didn't fix that either Heck I still have to finish painting the garage ceiling. It's been 13 years.

[Tuscany]

Alaska, its possible your local electric company may be giving incentives to replace fluorescents with LED lights.
I'm not sure if it's business instead of personal, but worth checking.
Currently in my area, there is an 80% reimbursement for doing this.
I've had everything at our store converted to LED using this program.

[Alaskabound]

T, that's a great idea. I will check with our local rural electric as I have not bought the lites yet. I don't think LEDs were available when we built. One problem I have is the truss height at 16' makes it a difficult reach. When the guy who wired the place installed the lights, he used a rolling scaffold. I sure like the sound of 80%! Too bad Cobalt doesn't do that. Thanks for the tip.

Dub

[Tuscany]

Get's better...
I used a company called Lime Rock Energy in Buffalo for my changeover. They coordinated a contractor which they hired, filed all of the paperwork, and had the contractor come in after hours to do the job. The labor was part of the reimbursement program.
Hopefully there is something similar in your area, and you can find a company that can handle your project without getting your hands dirty or stepping on a ladder.