Next upgrade on the cs22: add a 2nd battery

[Bamabonners]

Stay tuned. Second battery install on a cs22 coming soon. I hope these upgrades are helpful. These are fairly new models and I know there isn’t much info on them out there.

[MakeItAMudLight]

I had them add a second battery before I took delivery and they said it was easy to add. They just changed out the battery switch and put another battery and tray in. I definitely think it's worth the piece of mind knowing you have a second battery to rely on.

[JTinMO]

Do it. There's a past thread about this. My marina installed the switch, second battery tray, and two new batteries for about $400.

The newer battery switches on the Cobalts combine batteries which is ok for most. I had my marina install a true 1-2-both-off switch. I like to run mine on one battery, then switch to the next the next time out, etc. And know I have a reserve battery at the ready at all times. I think the newer style can (or at least could) run down both batteries and leave you stranded without enough juice to crank. I did not like that idea, and went old school.

Pic attached is the switch I prefer over others.

[MakeItAMudLight]

Yeah I have the same switch as JTinMO. I run both when underway and then swap to 1 or 2 when I stop and have the stereo going. That way I should have a good starting battery in reserve.

[JTinMO]

Yeah I have the same switch as JTinMO. I run both when underway and then swap to 1 or 2 when I stop and have the stereo going. That way I should have a good starting battery in reserve.

For some reason my mechanic suggested not using the "1+2" option unless you really need to. I think it was more related to charging the battery(ies) while running. I could be totally wrong though. I just focused on the "run it one Battery 1 one day, then swap to Battery 2 the next".

I have a dual battery charger installed as well so everything gets full charge every night. Both batteries should be 100% at the start of each day in my world.

[Bamabonners]

I have the newer off on combine switches. I’ve purchased an ACR to install. However, I’m seriously looking at getting the simple 1, 2, 1+2 switches. Lots of extra wiring and funding needed on the ACR. Unfortunately, there’s not a good place to mount all of it. I really don’t like the current battery location in the wet locker. They really should have put all that on the starboard side under the walkway. That storage area is rarely used because you have to lift the engine hatch to access it.

[JTinMO]

That’s it. Yes you need the ACR to run those new switches the right way. I was not into buying that stuff either. I like my old school battery switch.

[Photo_G]

I had them add a second battery before I took delivery and they said it was easy to add. They just changed out the battery switch and put another battery and tray in. I definitely think it's worth the piece of mind knowing you have a second battery to rely on.

+1 I had the dealer to do this before delivery too. It's well worth it. Here's another thread with some good information, including ACR details.

viewtopic.php?f=34&t=414&p=36253#p36253

G

[Bamabonners]

Ok, so a little confusion here. This is the pic of the switch connection from the factory. Single battery.

I was going to run the house battery to the open terminal, but it has a metal piece attached to it, essentially connecting it to the other post. This would seem to be combining both sides.

Should I remove it and then attach my house battery?

[Bamabonners]

Still waiting on word on the metal bridge between the #1 side and #2 side. In the meantime, I removed the single battery and mounted the dual batteries. I had to improvise on the board to sit them on. The factory board was just a single. I improvised with a poly cutting board. They make good amp boards too.

Got all my cables dry fitted. I think I’m mounting the ACR in the under seat compartment with the battery switch. This cuts down on the amount of wire to run as well.

[Bamabonners]

Not going to lie, this has been a little more difficult than I thought. I had never dealt with 1/0 gauge wire. Plus, I didn’t know that there were different types... just FYI, you need marine approved wire. I finally hit up a local stereo shop and they had this really sweet T Spec wire in 1/0 gauge. They also had the various ring connectors, fuse holders, and fuses.

I used 150 amp fuses on each side of the ACR, per instructions. Also, I installed it using the alternate load side instructions provided by blue seas. I also ran the 16ga ground wire and 10 amp fuse wired to negative post on battery.

I’m also rearranging the factory connections. I’m going to put the hot battery leads on their own post and accessories and starter on another. This is also per blue seas load side installation.


I decided to mount it to the back of the bulkhead. It’s facing the batteries in the bog wet locker.

Biggest problem I’m having is trying to get the breaker panel / switch combo back into the hole where it’s mounted. They really didn’t give much room to add 3 additional 1/0 gauge wires in that small box. Once I get that figured out, I’ll get it all buttoned up and batteries attached. Should be tomorrow.

[JTinMO]

I think this is why my dealer wanted $400 in labor to install the ACR option.

[Bamabonners]

I think this is why my dealer wanted $400 in labor to install the ACR option.

Yes!! It’s a bit of a pain in the rear, imo.

[Bamabonners]

Finally finished. Took the day off yesterday since I pulled my calf muscle and can barely walk. Getting older.....

Overall, I give it about a 7 on the difficulty scale. Lot of connections to make and big cables to work with. Sourcing the correct and approved parts is difficult. Plus, you might have to buy hydraulic crimp, if you don’t have access to one.


Here’s the parts list:

-second battery. I bought another interstate 24m xhd to match.
-blue seas adds battery kit, which contains the following:
—Blue seas SI ACR 7610
—Blue seas combo switch rates for your alternator. Mine is the 6011e ( came from the factory with this).
-1/0 ga marine grade battery cable. Can be sourced from local car stereo shop. I used white for power and black for ground.
-1/0 ga crimp on battery lugs (9 of them). Get the full crimp on kind and not the ones with the split in them. And DO NOT HAMMER THEM ON. I tried it and they came off.
-Inline fuse holders sourced from car stereo shop
- 150 amp fuses also sourced from car stereo shop
-battery terminal connections. One for positive and one for ground.
-16 ga ground wire
-10 amp in line fuse holder and fuse for the 16 ga ground
-16 ga quick connect female
- hydraulic crimper can be sourced from harbor freight.
- wire cutters that can cut 1/0 wire.
- assorted heat shrink
- #8 x 1 stainless screws.

I moved my factory battery to the left about 6 inches and mounted my new battery right beside it.

Lay out where you want to mount the ACR and fuses. Dry fit all the cables. Crimp on all the lugs and wrap in heat shrink. Run your ground.

Switch connections: remove the screws holding in the breaker panel so it can get to the back of the switch. REMOVE THE METAL BRIDGE CONNECTING THE TWO POSTS. I moved my connections to as follows: one #1 post will have one lead from the ACR and all accessories, plus the starter lead. The other #1 post will have the hot lead from the start battery. One #2 post will have the other lead from the ACR. The other #2 post will have the hot lead from the house battery. Connect the two negative posts together at the batteries to complete the circuit.

Put it all back together (which is hard, not all those cables want to fit back into that box).

When engine is running, the light in the ACR will go green indicating that it is closed and allowing the alternator to charge both batteries. When running on battery, no light because the ACR is open and isolating the batteries while they are discharging.

Pics:

[Big Block Power]

Nice job bammer. Yes the crimper is a nice tool to have around.