Volvo DPS-A delay engaging reverse after long runs

[BigGib]

I'm having an issue with my 2008 302, 5.7GXIs with DPS-A drives and around 400 hours. I had the drives inspected and serviced prior to purchase, everything came back good. After getting the boat back I noticed an intermittent delay engaging in reverse in the port drive, but only after harder runs (above 3500RPM for at least 10 minutes). Doesn't happen all the time but when it delays it ranges from 3 to 10 seconds before going into gear. No clunking, shifts smooth.

I found out the shop didn't use Volvo lube so I had them swap it out. Shifts even smoother now but the delay is still there. It is obviously tied to getting warm. I'm thinking maybe a clone clutch going out?

Just seeing if anyone on here has any other ideas.

Thanks!

[cmattj]

I'm having an issue with my 2008 302, 5.7GXIs with DPS-A drives and around 400 hours. I had the drives inspected and serviced prior to purchase, everything came back good. After getting the boat back I noticed an intermittent delay engaging in reverse in the port drive, but only after harder runs (above 3500RPM for at least 10 minutes). Doesn't happen all the time but when it delays it ranges from 3 to 10 seconds before going into gear. No clunking, shifts smooth.

I found out the shop didn't use Volvo lube so I had them swap it out. Shifts even smoother now but the delay is still there. It is obviously tied to getting warm. I'm thinking maybe a clone clutch going out?

Just seeing if anyone on here has any other ideas.

Thanks!

Hey BG
Yes it apears the facings on the cone clutches are glazed. Warm is due to fluid breakdown once hit.
Usually one side of the cone clutches gets it first.... so your seeing a delay in the one side. Get it changed as it can eventually not grip even with a sudden rev of the throttle. That’s what forces the gear to spiral down and engage.
It’s less of an ordeal on the Volvo outdrive as compared to mercs bravos as you won’t need a gear set.
Run the recommended fluid in the future and you will be golden!

[BigGib]

Thanks for the response! I figured it was probably the cone clutch. I'm sure that one isn't going to be cheap. I would guess the other one isn't far behind then.

[cmattj]

Thanks for the response! I figured it was probably the cone clutch. I'm sure that one isn't going to be cheap. I would guess the other one isn't far behind then.

It’s not too terrible as you don’t usually have to replace the gear set or at least the cone housing. The tech will know. . About 1/3 the price of a Bravo to repair .
As far as the other side? Jury is out on the next light bulb to go theory. Unless it had water in it at one time I would just keep going and be reactive should it go!
Get it changed and go have a fun summer!

[BigGib]

Thanks for the response! I figured it was probably the cone clutch. I'm sure that one isn't going to be cheap. I would guess the other one isn't far behind then.

It’s not too terrible as you don’t usually have to replace the gear set or at least the cone housing. The tech will know. . About 1/3 the price of a Bravo to repair .
As far as the other side? Jury is out on the next light bulb to go theory. Unless it had water in it at one time I would just keep going and be reactive should it go!
Get it changed and go have a fun summer!

It's going to the shop in a couple of weeks so we will see what the damage is. Just hoping they can get it fixed quick and done right the first time.

[BigGib]

Boat got dropped off at Village today, hopefully will have her back for next weekend

[BigGib]

Heard from the shop. They said there was quite a bit of water in both drives and a mixture of two different gear oils. Both cone clutches have wear and also both top cap seals and shift cable seals need replaced. Also have a bent prop on top of it. They pressure tested both drives and both held under static pressure, and inspected both drive saver couplers. They did mention long term they have some concern about the bearings because of the water in both drives.

I had the drives inspected and serviced prior to the purchase a few months ago by another shop, and everything checked out. I found out they didn't use Volvo lube so I had the drain and refill with correct lube a couple of weeks ago. At no point did they say anything about water in the oil? I would love to know how any shop would miss this, or how this could've happened in the last two weeks with very minimal use?

All in all, it's a $2700 repair bill for the diagnostics, new prop, service both drives, haul out, and replace the seals and cone clutches in both.

[cmattj]

As we discussed its now a combination of water and wrong oil. The Volvo is simpler in this as compared to Mercury as no gear sets get changed. Yes the bill could be 4K more for both if a merc.
I still miss the glancing resv bottle of the merc system but even then EVERY service the Orings used for draining and filling along with the dipstick should be replaced during fluid changes . As they can draw water in without leaving the sheeny oil leak sometimes when we drop the drives in the water. Even checking your outdrive dipstick is essentially important but having new orings for that and the right tightness is key.
Glad it’s getting done! Bravo ( see what I did there)

[akorcovelos]

How bad is the prop? I would think it could be repaired versus replaced. In the overall bill it may only save a couple hundred bucks, but still...

[BigGib]

As we discussed its now a combination of water and wrong oil. The Volvo is simpler in this as compared to Mercury as no gear sets get changed. Yes the bill could be 4K more for both if a merc.
I still miss the glancing resv bottle of the merc system but even then EVERY service the Orings used for draining and filling along with the dipstick should be replaced during fluid changes . As they can draw water in without leaving the sheeny oil leak sometimes when we drop the drives in the water. Even checking your outdrive dipstick is essentially important but having new orings for that and the right tightness is key.
Glad it’s getting done! Bravo ( see what I did there)

Yep you were 100% right. My guess is they reused the o rings but can't really prove that at this point. It should be fixed today and moving forward it will only go to Village for service.

[BigGib]

How bad is the prop? I would think it could be repaired versus replaced. In the overall bill it may only save a couple hundred bucks, but still...

It could definitely be repaired but at this point it would be about $200 less to go that route and they already have one ready to go. At this point I just want to be done and back on the water!

[akorcovelos]

How bad is the prop? I would think it could be repaired versus replaced. In the overall bill it may only save a couple hundred bucks, but still...

It could definitely be repaired but at this point it would be about $200 less to go that route and they already have one ready to go. At this point I just want to be done and back on the water!

totally get it, I'd still keep the damaged one, get it repaired and keep it as a spare.

[BigGib]

This is part of the response from the shop that did the initial drive service:

"I’m not sure what is being referred to as the top cap seal. We actually had a top cap come off with bad threads, at no fault of ours, and replaced it at our own expense at a cost of around $340. Kelly’s keeps one in stock and told us that it’s a common problem. There is a ring that fits on the bottom and it was in good condition and put back".

My question is that during a normal drive service would they have a need to remove the top cap? They also reused the ring here.

They are also stating that there is no way to tell if a cone clutch is glazed without looking at it under a microscope.

At this point the are offering to cover some of the repairs if they feel like they caused any of the damage.

[akorcovelos]

Why are you just learning about stripped threads now? If what they are saying is true they would have told you at the time and made themselves look good in comping the cost to fix it.

[BigGib]

Why are you just learning about stripped threads now? If what they are saying is true they would have told you at the time and made themselves look good in comping the cost to fix it.

I agree, I'm a little pissed I'm just now finding out about that. Our broker recommend this shop and we only had a few days to get an inspection and survey done to close the deal. All local Volvo certified shops were several weeks out. Lesson learned on this one!

Fortunately all service was done at Village prior to 2016 since the boat was sold there new. Hopefully everything will be good now for awhile.