Way off the beaten path

[sailor55330]

Anyone here have much knowledge of gun safes? I'm in the market for a variety of reasons (firearms, jewelry, documents, cash for the zombie apocolypse--J/K! etc). While I understand the difference in thickness of steel, not sure how much difference there is in actual resistance. I kind of have it narrowed down to 2 brands. For example-

Looking at one safe that has 3/16" steel body (7 gauge) with a 3/8 steel door and a 10 gauge skin.
Fire rating is 1680 for 90m
18 1.5" bolts with 4 corner lock bolts

One has 10 gauge thick steel body with a 3/8" thick outer door.
Fire rating on one is 1865 for 110, while the other is 1680 for 90.
14 1.5" bolts, no corner lock bolts

Everyone has their own gimmick. From what I read, most safe intrusions are through the sides, not the door. It's worse than optioning a Cobalt. I don't want to really spend the $$$, but it's time.

[akorcovelos]

Not far behind you, I just have a glass display case but really need a fire safe. Sub'd for info.

[sailor55330]

So far for me Ark, it’s FT Knox followed by Superior. There are others but pricing and availability become challenging. I’m always open for ideas. Surprising little info out there

[Big Block Power]

I'm sure the sheriff will help on this one. Unless he's still at Mr doughnut shop

[TTU]

https://www.shopgreendealer.com/John-De ... 5-GNM.html

I have this one and love it. Liberty has always seemed like an economical brand that had nice products for a reasonable price.

[akorcovelos]

Yeah I looked at those, but directly from Liberty so I'm not paying for the logo. They look really nice for under a grand.

[TTU]

I don't blame you there. I grew up using only green tractors on the farm, so we got ridiculous good deals at the John Deere house.

[shrfdeputy]

I'm sure the sheriff will help on this one. Unless he's still at Mr doughnut shop

Sorry I'm late. I was definitely not eating 13 donuts or anything like that.

I honestly don't own a gun safe yet, but I obviously work around some guys who have them. I asked around and this is the one everyone is drooling over at the moment because, Merica.

https://www.browning.com/products/gun-s ... -mkiv.html

[sailor55330]

I looked that safe up online. It’s not even close to the ft knox for basically the same money. If I got the right models.

[shrfdeputy]

I looked that safe up online. It’s not even close to the ft knox for basically the same money. If I got the right models.

I think they liked the design and some of the features more than anything.

[sailor55330]

No worries....everyone has their own checklist. I was going mostly off of the wall thickness. 11 gauge vs 3/8" or up to 1/2" inch

[shrfdeputy]

No worries....everyone has their own checklist. I was going mostly off of the wall thickness. 11 gauge vs 3/8" or up to 1/2" inch

I can tell you we don’t see many burglars even try to get into the big ones. If they can lift it they take the whole thing, but they leave the heavy ones alone. Anything that can withstand an hour of fire is going to be good in my book.

[sailor55330]

Thumbs up

[NautiGirl]

Anyone here have much knowledge of gun safes? I'm in the market for a variety of reasons (firearms, jewelry, documents, cash for the zombie apocolypse--J/K! etc). While I understand the difference in thickness of steel, not sure how much difference there is in actual resistance. I kind of have it narrowed down to 2 brands. For example-

Looking at one safe that has 3/16" steel body (7 gauge) with a 3/8 steel door and a 10 gauge skin.
Fire rating is 1680 for 90m
18 1.5" bolts with 4 corner lock bolts

One has 10 gauge thick steel body with a 3/8" thick outer door.
Fire rating on one is 1865 for 110, while the other is 1680 for 90.
14 1.5" bolts, no corner lock bolts

Everyone has their own gimmick. From what I read, most safe intrusions are through the sides, not the door. It's worse than optioning a Cobalt. I don't want to really spend the $$$, but it's time.

I purchased a safe when we built our house about four years ago. Here is what I found:

Unless you are spending big bucks you are not buying a safe, you are buying something that is rated as a Residential Security Container or RSC.

Dont get too hung up on thickness of the steel, it someone really wants in 10ga or 11ga or 12ga, doesnt really matter. A battery powered sawzall will cut through any of them. You are protecting your stuff from guys who break in and just grab whatever is easy to get or kids who shouldn't be around your guns.

I noticed you said you wanted to put documents in the safe. Do some research, a lot of gun safes are fireproof, very few are waterproof. Something to consider if the safe is dripping wet from a fire being put out or a flood.

Make sure whatever you do that you secure it to the floor. I used tapcon's to bolt it into our basement slab. I dont think anyone could walk off with it, but when it wasnt bolted down it would tilt forward when the door was open.

Make sure you place it in an area with an electrical outlet and buy a golden rod to deal with humidity. Make sure the safe you chose has a place to run a power cord into it.

Finally and most important, buy a bigger safe than you think you will ever need. The gun ratings on safes are crap, I think mine is rated to 48 guns, I have 12 or so in it now and its full. Buy larger so you only have to do this once.

Think that's it.

[shrfdeputy]

Anyone here have much knowledge of gun safes? I'm in the market for a variety of reasons (firearms, jewelry, documents, cash for the zombie apocolypse--J/K! etc). While I understand the difference in thickness of steel, not sure how much difference there is in actual resistance. I kind of have it narrowed down to 2 brands. For example-

Looking at one safe that has 3/16" steel body (7 gauge) with a 3/8 steel door and a 10 gauge skin.
Fire rating is 1680 for 90m
18 1.5" bolts with 4 corner lock bolts

One has 10 gauge thick steel body with a 3/8" thick outer door.
Fire rating on one is 1865 for 110, while the other is 1680 for 90.
14 1.5" bolts, no corner lock bolts

Everyone has their own gimmick. From what I read, most safe intrusions are through the sides, not the door. It's worse than optioning a Cobalt. I don't want to really spend the $$$, but it's time.

I purchased a safe when we built our house about four years ago. Here is what I found:

Unless you are spending big bucks you are not buying a safe, you are buying something that is rated as a Residential Security Container or RSC.

Dont get too hung up on thickness of the steel, it someone really wants in 10ga or 11ga or 12ga, doesnt really matter. A battery powered sawzall will cut through any of them. You are protecting your stuff from guys who break in and just grab whatever is easy to get or kids who shouldn't be around your guns.

I noticed you said you wanted to put documents in the safe. Do some research, a lot of gun safes are fireproof, very few are waterproof. Something to consider if the safe is dripping wet from a fire being put out or a flood.

Make sure whatever you do that you secure it to the floor. I used tapcon's to bolt it into our basement slab. I dont think anyone could walk off with it, but when it wasnt bolted down it would tilt forward when the door was open.

Make sure you place it in an area with an electrical outlet and buy a golden rod to deal with humidity. Make sure the safe you chose has a place to run a power cord into it.

Finally and most important, buy a bigger safe than you think you will ever need. The gun ratings on safes are crap, I think mine is rated to 48 guns, I have 12 or so in it now and its full. Buy larger so you only have to do this once.

Think that's it.

Excellent points.