New Loadmaster Trailer & 2014 R5

[BobRae99]

Here are some pics of what I’m describing.
Also, their ladder design sucks. I sent mine out to a local fan shop to correct it.

I’m wondering about the ladder top step placement. Let’s say an inexperienced boat loader backs this trailer an extra couple of feet into the waster and the boat floats forward to the bow stop, with the stop contacting the hull lower down than if the trailer was not as deep in the water. Doesn’t that allow the bow near the chain locker to potentially contact the top step which, from the picture looks to be pretty close to the hull when the boat is loaded?

At first glance, it looks like it could be a problem. From this point of contact, the boat will not come any closer to the step, or rise up because the entire front of the boat will start leaving the bunks to do so, which boat weight will not allow.

I wasn't thinking about the boat moving forward during a panic stop, but rather floating above the bunks because I backed in too far and the bow stop not being in the right place on the eve to hold the boat away from the step (the vee slopes to the rear as the boat gets higher in relation to the bow stop). Maybe that's only a problem for the inexperienced. Finally, Cobalt touts its scuff plate as being an innovation to protect the boat from rubbing against it. Doesn't having the bow stop lower down allow for scuffing?

[Big Block Power]

I’m wondering about the ladder top step placement. Let’s say an inexperienced boat loader backs this trailer an extra couple of feet into the waster and the boat floats forward to the bow stop, with the stop contacting the hull lower down than if the trailer was not as deep in the water. Doesn’t that allow the bow near the chain locker to potentially contact the top step which, from the picture looks to be pretty close to the hull when the boat is loaded?

At first glance, it looks like it could be a problem. From this point of contact, the boat will not come any closer to the step, or rise up because the entire front of the boat will start leaving the bunks to do so, which boat weight will not allow.

I wasn't thinking about the boat moving forward during a panic stop, but rather floating above the bunks because I backed in too far and the bow stop not being in the right place on the eve to hold the boat away from the step (the vee slopes to the rear as the boat gets higher in relation to the bow stop). Maybe that's only a problem for the inexperienced. Finally, Cobalt touts its scuff plate as being an innovation to protect the boat from rubbing against it. Doesn't having the bow stop lower down allow for scuffing?

Unfortunately anything can happen. I was launching my boat and when I was going off the bunks and the wife was putting the trailer in deeper and hit the brakes to release me a wave came from behind me and pushed me back into the trailer and it took a chunk out of the bow. It all can be fixed.

[Tuscany]

I’m wondering about the ladder top step placement. Let’s say an inexperienced boat loader backs this trailer an extra couple of feet into the waster and the boat floats forward to the bow stop, with the stop contacting the hull lower down than if the trailer was not as deep in the water. Doesn’t that allow the bow near the chain locker to potentially contact the top step which, from the picture looks to be pretty close to the hull when the boat is loaded?

At first glance, it looks like it could be a problem. From this point of contact, the boat will not come any closer to the step, or rise up because the entire front of the boat will start leaving the bunks to do so, which boat weight will not allow.

I wasn't thinking about the boat moving forward during a panic stop, but rather floating above the bunks because I backed in too far and the bow stop not being in the right place on the eve to hold the boat away from the step (the vee slopes to the rear as the boat gets higher in relation to the bow stop). Maybe that's only a problem for the inexperienced. Finally, Cobalt touts its scuff plate as being an innovation to protect the boat from rubbing against it. Doesn't having the bow stop lower down allow for scuffing?

Picture the trailer sitting at an upward angle on the ramp when loading. When loading, my V block initially contacts the bow perfectly at bow hook eye level. If the block were higher, it would hit above the eye which would be a weird crank strap angle that would actually be pulling the bow down instead of up. The forward keel bunks run almost to the front of the trailer and act as the guide. As I draw the boat in, the bow raises up the block to the ladder platform height...which the last few cranks are TOUGH and the block is planted tight into the bow. That’s why I know it’s a perfect block placement for the boat.

[NautiGirl]

I’m wondering about the ladder top step placement. Let’s say an inexperienced boat loader backs this trailer an extra couple of feet into the waster and the boat floats forward to the bow stop, with the stop contacting the hull lower down than if the trailer was not as deep in the water. Doesn’t that allow the bow near the chain locker to potentially contact the top step which, from the picture looks to be pretty close to the hull when the boat is loaded?

At first glance, it looks like it could be a problem. From this point of contact, the boat will not come any closer to the step, or rise up because the entire front of the boat will start leaving the bunks to do so, which boat weight will not allow.

I wasn't thinking about the boat moving forward during a panic stop, but rather floating above the bunks because I backed in too far and the bow stop not being in the right place on the eve to hold the boat away from the step (the vee slopes to the rear as the boat gets higher in relation to the bow stop). Maybe that's only a problem for the inexperienced. Finally, Cobalt touts its scuff plate as being an innovation to protect the boat from rubbing against it. Doesn't having the bow stop lower down allow for scuffing?

You may be overthinking this one just a bit Bob. There is certainly a sweet spot when loading, in too deep can cause problems and in too shallow you will hate your life trying to get the boat all the way on the trailer. You will figure out what works for your boat and your ramp. That said you would have to be way too deep to get the boat floating over the bow stop.

On your first try loading I would go in too shallow. Let the boat center itself up on the bunks and then you can back the trailer in a bit further and load the boat the rest of the way on. Few tries and you will get it figured out. Some days we float ours right on other times I have to Pudgy the had down harder to get it loaded up.

Don't mean to open a can of worms b/c I know some people frown upon it but are you planning on power loading it or using the wench?

[Big Block Power]

At first glance, it looks like it could be a problem. From this point of contact, the boat will not come any closer to the step, or rise up because the entire front of the boat will start leaving the bunks to do so, which boat weight will not allow.

I wasn't thinking about the boat moving forward during a panic stop, but rather floating above the bunks because I backed in too far and the bow stop not being in the right place on the eve to hold the boat away from the step (the vee slopes to the rear as the boat gets higher in relation to the bow stop). Maybe that's only a problem for the inexperienced. Finally, Cobalt touts its scuff plate as being an innovation to protect the boat from rubbing against it. Doesn't having the bow stop lower down allow for scuffing?

You may be overthinking this one just a bit Bob. There is certainly a sweet spot when loading, in too deep can cause problems and in too shallow you will hate your life trying to get the boat all the way on the trailer. You will figure out what works for your boat and your ramp. That said you would have to be way too deep to get the boat floating over the bow stop.

On your first try loading I would go in too shallow. Let the boat center itself up on the bunks and then you can back the trailer in a bit further and load the boat the rest of the way on. Few tries and you will get it figured out. Some days we float ours right on other times I have to Pudgy the had(push the gas) down harder to get it loaded up.

Don't mean to open a can of worms b/c I know some people frown upon it but are you planning on power loading it or using the wench?

Also I recommend you pull the boat off the trailer by hand with a rope to the dock. That way what happened to my bow doesn't to you when trying to drive the boat off the trailer. But you know crap happens.
Also your not loading a submarine so the trailer doesn't have to be buried way in the water. Just part of the frt of the fender is normally showing and your good. BBP tip of the day.

[BobRae99]

At first glance, it looks like it could be a problem. From this point of contact, the boat will not come any closer to the step, or rise up because the entire front of the boat will start leaving the bunks to do so, which boat weight will not allow.

I wasn't thinking about the boat moving forward during a panic stop, but rather floating above the bunks because I backed in too far and the bow stop not being in the right place on the eve to hold the boat away from the step (the vee slopes to the rear as the boat gets higher in relation to the bow stop). Maybe that's only a problem for the inexperienced. Finally, Cobalt touts its scuff plate as being an innovation to protect the boat from rubbing against it. Doesn't having the bow stop lower down allow for scuffing?

You may be overthinking this one just a bit Bob. There is certainly a sweet spot when loading, in too deep can cause problems and in too shallow you will hate your life trying to get the boat all the way on the trailer. You will figure out what works for your boat and your ramp. That said you would have to be way too deep to get the boat floating over the bow stop.

On your first try loading I would go in too shallow. Let the boat center itself up on the bunks and then you can back the trailer in a bit further and load the boat the rest of the way on. Few tries and you will get it figured out. Some days we float ours right on other times I have to Pudgy the had down harder to get it loaded up.

Don't mean to open a can of worms b/c I know some people frown upon it but are you planning on power loading it or using the wench?

My first experience - ever - loading a boat was loading my 210. In 2018 we had record low water levels. I backed the trailer too far into the water and the stern of the boat was just floating around and wasn't centred. So, I pulled the boat off and move the trailer out a bit and tried again. This time, as I slowly started to pull the boat up the ramp and truck and trailer stropped. What?? Oops, you have to trim all the way up or the skeg will hit the bottom. So I did that, trailer stops again - now what?

Guy with experience lends a hand and says you aren't exactly in the middle of the ramp and unfortunately if you are 2' off the centre line the left tire drops further into the water than the right side and you'll hit bottom with the out drive even if it is trimmed up. So, the boat came off again, I repositioned the trailer and backed in until the front edge of the bun was just under water, trimmed up, entered the boat on the trailer and used a rope to pull the boat into contact with the bunks and winched it up. I guess third time was a charm. Not much harm done though - just a light scratch at the bottom of the keg. When I dropped the boat at the dealer, he said he couldn't count how many times he's heard of boat owners scraping the keg when trying to pull a boat out of the water. not so sure about that.

Now that you have all stopped laughing, that is where my question about the closeness of the top step comes from. if it was my trailer (and at my experience level), I'd be happier with a top step that was 1' or more away from the bow. That way, if I backed the trailer in too far (I'm not sure I'll be making that mistake again though), there is no risk of the boat riding up onto the step. its one thing to have to touch up the keg, another to have to repair a chunk taken out of the bow. But, as I wrote above, I'm short on experience.

[Snowman8]

I wasn't thinking about the boat moving forward during a panic stop, but rather floating above the bunks because I backed in too far and the bow stop not being in the right place on the eve to hold the boat away from the step (the vee slopes to the rear as the boat gets higher in relation to the bow stop). Maybe that's only a problem for the inexperienced. Finally, Cobalt touts its scuff plate as being an innovation to protect the boat from rubbing against it. Doesn't having the bow stop lower down allow for scuffing?

You may be overthinking this one just a bit Bob. There is certainly a sweet spot when loading, in too deep can cause problems and in too shallow you will hate your life trying to get the boat all the way on the trailer. You will figure out what works for your boat and your ramp. That said you would have to be way too deep to get the boat floating over the bow stop.

On your first try loading I would go in too shallow. Let the boat center itself up on the bunks and then you can back the trailer in a bit further and load the boat the rest of the way on. Few tries and you will get it figured out. Some days we float ours right on other times I have to Pudgy the had down harder to get it loaded up.

Don't mean to open a can of worms b/c I know some people frown upon it but are you planning on power loading it or using the wench?

My first experience - ever - loading a boat was loading my 210. In 2018 we had record low water levels. I backed the trailer too far into the water and the stern of the boat was just floating around and wasn't centred. So, I pulled the boat off and move the trailer out a bit and tried again. This time, as I slowly started to pull the boat up the ramp and truck and trailer stropped. What?? Oops, you have to trim all the way up or the skeg will hit the bottom. So I did that, trailer stops again - now what?

Guy with experience lends a hand and says you aren't exactly in the middle of the ramp and unfortunately if you are 2' off the centre line the left tire drops further into the water than the right side and you'll hit bottom with the out drive even if it is trimmed up. So, the boat came off again, I repositioned the trailer and backed in until the front edge of the bun was just under water, trimmed up, entered the boat on the trailer and used a rope to pull the boat into contact with the bunks and winched it up. I guess third time was a charm. Not much harm done though - just a light scratch at the bottom of the keg. When I dropped the boat at the dealer, he said he couldn't count how many times he's heard of boat owners scraping the keg when trying to pull a boat out of the water. not so sure about that.

Now that you have all stopped laughing, that is where my question about the closeness of the top step comes from. if it was my trailer (and at my experience level), I'd be happier with a top step that was 1' or more away from the bow. That way, if I backed the trailer in too far (I'm not sure I'll be making that mistake again though), there is no risk of the boat riding up onto the step. its one thing to have to touch up the keg, another to have to repair a chunk taken out of the bow. But, as I wrote above, I'm short on experience.

We were all short on experience at one time and could write endless pages of mistakes! Like BB said typically when you can just see the top of the front of the fender above the water is pretty close to where you need to be with most trailers. A few inches one way or another makes a big difference. I think you would have to be WAY, I mean WAY too deep to float right over the bow stop and contact the ladder on Tusc’s and my trailers. If you were that deep hitting the ladder would be the least of your worries, the boat wouldn’t even stay in the center of the trailer then either, it would float right over the fenders.
I typically dunk the trailer extra deep to wet the bunks then slowly pull out until I can see the top of the front edge of the fenders. It’s easier/better to be too shallow than too deep. If you are too shallow you can’t hardly crank a big boat up the bunks, just back it in a little bit and continue cranking. If you are too deep the boat won’t self center because it is floating above the bunks.

[Big Block Power]

Plus I hate to say it if the boat trailer is too deep and you come in way off or the current pushed you off center your boat tries to go over the fenders which actually stops The boat. Don't ask me how I know. Ok I watched that happen. Lol. So rant is pretty hard to get that far up the trailer and hit something on the other side of the bow stop. Even when my bow hit it hit under the bow stop roller and why it took the hit.
I recommend cheater/guide poles they would help you a ton also. They are not a bad thing. Even a life long boater like Tuscany uses them still. Actually they have good value!

[BobRae99]

Thanks guys. I appreciate you not making fun of me. Plenty of experience loading show horses and hauled 'em, but boat loading was new to me. Some good advice here. Thanks.

[akorcovelos]

Surprised nobody suggested buying a lake house and just leaving it on the water there.

[Big Block Power]

Surprised nobody suggested buying a lake house and just leaving it on the water there.

Well he is only 3 minutes from the marina. Good thought though. Glad you chimed at the end to help with that nonsugesstion. Lol

[akorcovelos]

Just making sure Bob gets all the options out there.

[Big Block Power]

On Bob let's move to buying a place on the water with a lift

[jhnmdahl]

Don't mean to open a can of worms b/c I know some people frown upon it but are you planning on power loading it or using the wench?

Can't help but wonder whether people frown on power loading or using a wench?

[akorcovelos]

Don't mean to open a can of worms b/c I know some people frown upon it but are you planning on power loading it or using the wench?

Can't help but wonder whether people frown on power loading or using a wench?

Both according to Mrs. akor...