Engine Hatch motor will not run to close.

[Boatrover]

My engine hatch will open fine. When I try to close it, the valve will open to let fluid out but the motor does not run. It takes forever to get it to close. Last fall I jumped the wires (I forgot which ones) and the motor ran and the hatch closed and yes I almost got trapped in the engine compartment. Any ideas on where to start short of just chasing wires? It is a Bennett lift system dual cylinder simultaneous movement.

[AsLan7]

This may help.

The Bennett HPU powers the hatch as well as trim tabs if installed.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=59s&v=wd2RjZ63tTI

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[Boatrover]

Chased the issue to the toggle switch on the dash. After a lot of hesitation I pulled the switch out and opened it up. I was able to clean the contacts and get it back together, with no leftover pieces. No longer takes 10 minuets to close the engine hatch.

[AsLan7]

Hey, great to hear boatrover.
I'll be doin' the same when I get a warm day to work on mine this summer.

[Big Block Power]

Good deal. Nice and easy.

[juddmyers]

cleaned them on the toggle switch itself? asking because I am thinking of doing this with the horn. Seems my horn has a short somewhere, only works part of the time.

[Boatrover]

Yes I opened up the toggle switch and cleaned the internal contacts. Be careful when you open it so you do not lose any springs or parts.

[KP01]

Learned a lot about the Bennett trim tabs today working on mine. My tabs wouldn’t go up. They would go down, and the motor hatch worked properly. This told me the motor was fine in both directions. Thought it had a switch problem, too as the terminals were corroded. Turned out to be a bad connection in the wiring harness at the pump. Found a write up f I’m Bennett on FL sportsman regarding their system that was helpful. Quoted below:

Here is a link to a video that covers how the system works and basic troubleshooting http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/videoplayer.php?vID=10
And here is a link to a video that covers One Tab Operates, Other Does Not http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/videoplayer.php?vID=15

Below you will find troubleshooting that you can print and take to the boat. Doing step 3 will allow you to isolate the problem. Pay particular attention to the green wire since it controls the solenoid valve for the starboard Trim Tab.

Once you have done step 3 let me know what you find and I will be delighted to help.

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine

Fluid: Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) any type. Hydraulic Power Unit is self bleeding, running the Trim Tabs up and down 3-4 times will purge air from the system.

Fuse: 12 volt system use 20 amp in-line fuse on positive. (24v & 32v use proportionately smaller)

Red= Port Valve
Green= Starboard Valve
Blue=Motor Forward (pump pressure)
Yellow= Motor Reverse (pump retract)
Black on HPU=Ground
Orange on Helm=Control Positive

Troubleshooting

1.If one side is not operating reverse hydraulic lines on the front of the Hydraulic Power Unit to determine if the malfunction is in HPU or actuator / hydraulic lines. If after reversing the lines symptom shifts to the other side the malfunction may exist in HPU. If the symptom remains on the same side, malfunction may exist with the actuator / hydraulic lines

2. Is the unit receiving a solid 12 volts? Low voltage will some times cause the solenoids to not open preventing the tabs from moving even though the pump motor is running.

3. Conduct the following test:
Remove the wires from the helm control and touch together as follows:
Operation=Reaction
Orange (+), blue, red= Port trim tab down
Orange (+), blue, green=Starboard trim tab down
Orange (+), blue, red, green= Both trim tabs down
Orange (+), yellow, red= Port trim tab up
Orange (+), yellow, green=Starboard trim tab up
Orange (+), yellow, red, green= Both trim tabs up

If the trim tabs function correctly for each wire grouping then the switch is at fault. Also note that any loose or missing screws on the back of the switch (whether a wire is connected there or not) can cause the pump to malfunction.

This test may also be done right at the pump by substituting a "hot lead" for orange. There is usually a connector to the wire harness within a foot or so of the pump. You want to check this connection for corrosion. You may wish to cut the connector off on the pump side and try the test on bare wires.

4. If you suspect corrosion on the wire connector near the pump, cut it out, test as above and reconnect using butt splices.

5. If you conclude the problem is in the pump, contact me. Bennett Trim Tab Systems carry a five year warranty.

6. Check to see if there is a relay in line on the wiring harness near the hydraulic power unit. If there is it is an Interrupter Relay (IR1000). It prevents the system fuse from blowing if you try to actuate one trim tab up and the other down at the same time. After you test as outlined above, try removing the relay from the wiring harness and retest the unit.(Note: the interrupter relay is no longer used in current Bennett Trim Tab systems and has been replaced with a Switches that "lock out" preventing a blown fuse).

[AsLan7]

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Thx kp01.

Btw, on Memorial Day weekend, I fixed my intermittent engine hatch issues. The hatch would raise properly but was very slow to lower.

After troubleshooting the Bennett HPU, I realized there was nothing wrong with the power unit.

I then turned to the dash switch. Found two issues. A chafed wire which I subsequently cut out and replaced.
Then took apart the dash toggle switch and found the insides all gunked up. Cleaned it out so the brass was shiny & new (I should have taken a pic of that) and now the hatch works like a champ.

Below are photos of the chafed wire & fouled up switch...

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[KP01]

Nice job on the switch overhaul. It doesn't take too much corrosion to prevent good contact inside those switches. I've seen instances where contacts were bad, but would allow enough voltage through so it looked good on a meter. They would make just enough contact to pass voltage, but wouldn't support any kind of amp draw, so whatever was on the other side of them wouldn't work. That's the kind of stuff that can make you unnecessarily replace expensive parts, thinking "It's getting power and not working. Must be a bad motor".

[mascara]

Hello!

I just bought a 2001 Cobalt 263. Everything has been just fine until yesterday when the switch on the dash to open the engine hatch didnt work. I checked the circuit breakers under the dash and they are all in position. Mechanic told me to try and lift it manually but there is no way! Any ideas here?

[AsLan7]

Did you do what I did in the post documented above? The switch may foul after almost 20 years of use.

Can you hear the motor running when you move the switch left or right? The motor is located starboard side aft corner.

You will not be able to lift it manually. Take a jumper pack and hook it up to the two posts under the rear seat. It may help augment the batteries and provide enough juice in addition to your possibly corroded switch to lift it.

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[smokymance]

How long would you guys say the a normal operating system should take to lift the hatch...in my particular case it takes a good 30-40 seconds id say to lift...and of coarse lowering the hatch is a fraction of the time.

[Ytmsn]

Mine went up this morning but won't come back down. I was headed to the stereo shop and now I guess that's not going to happen! So now my hatch is halfway open and won't close. And I have to go out of town this afternoon.. Dang it..

[Tickfaw]

.
Thx kp01.

Btw, on Memorial Day weekend, I fixed my intermittent engine hatch issues. The hatch would raise properly but was very slow to lower.

After troubleshooting the Bennett HPU, I realized there was nothing wrong with the power unit.

I then turned to the dash switch. Found two issues. A chafed wire which I subsequently cut out and replaced.
Then took apart the dash toggle switch and found the insides all gunked up. Cleaned it out so the brass was shiny & new (I should have taken a pic of that) and now the hatch works like a champ.

Below are photos of the chafed wire & fouled up switch...

.

How do I access these switches to remove and clean in a '06 272. The dash appears to be completely enclosed