Cobaltchat.com

Ok.. I did remove the teak trim strips on the left & right. An interesting assortment of screws.. will need to fix that. I took the gauge clusters down by removing the Allen screws.. then put them back lol.

I managed to track down the lighter power to the aux switch in the upper right corner which is apparently not working.. whether it’s the switch or dead circuit breaker.. I just need to figure out my next steps

I also should state that there are still screws underneath the dash that appear to be holding the dash “panel” in place — kinda sandwiched of sorts. Here’s a few more pics of what I’ve done (and undone as the case may be)..

Here’s the dash after I removed the Allen screws holding the gauges in place. Eventually I put them back in place again. I should have crawled underneath first.. Here’s an underside view showing a piece of clamping metal holding the backside of the instrument panel.. I’m wondering if this is factory or someone else did this to fix something..? Here’s the other side.. I was able to track down the offending red/white wire to the circuit breaker button — there are 3 terminals on each of these — two are wired together I believe and the 3rd is what I’m assuming is the source. What I find is that while both the first two show continuity I can’t buzz the 3rd which tells me I’ve got an open in the circuit breaker.. Is that a valid assumption? Below is a pic of one of these guys.. sorry for the crappy pic! I couldn’t get a very good pic of one of them. IF I need replacement breakers, are there ones out there to match these or should I consider replacement of all?? Here’s an overall view of what the dash looks like at the moment.. I should note that the power was disconnected when doing my buzzing out of the wires — I assume these breakers don’t need power applied to work...

Here’s the offender.. I just wish I knew the amp rating for it — Its an “
ATA Series 1658”.. I see no indication of amperage or anything.. I’m HOPING that someone has a schematic for the DV18??
If I hook my multimeter to it, I get an open circuit...

CobaltRick wrote: Thu May 07, 2020 9:01 pm Here’s the offender.. I just wish I knew the amp rating for it — Its an “
ATA Series 1658”.. I see no indication of amperage or anything.. I’m HOPING that someone has a schematic for the DV18??

51CB6C90-0271-428F-AE23-BFA474334ADB.jpeg

If I hook my multimeter to it, I get an open circuit...

Just put a tin gum wrapper between it and its all good see saved you money.
Prob a 15amp?

Yeah.. Actually I was thinking of using an old paperclip.. lol. (Yes, we’re kidding in case some future reader might be wondering).

I’m sure there must be schematics or wiring diagrams out there somewhere for these things? Seems like an oversight if not..at least in this case when breakers are not labeled for ratings. I was able to determine the wiring method — there’s a daisy-chain of hot going from one breaker to the next and then from the output of the breaker to the switch I believe..

I finally recalled that the owners manual has a wiring diagram but it is unreadable unfortunately — it’s the ‘86 owners manual in this case.. I also tried the ‘87 and its in about the same shape.. I don’t know how they scanned them but ... I wish someone here had the original printed manual that could be rescanned using current tech..

So.. Assuming that I want to swap out the various breakers, I’m thinking the best way would be to remove the steering wheel which may be part of why the panel won’t budge.. If I remove the 9 hex head retaining screws, will it just pull off or ??? I can’t quite figure out how the steering works from looking under the dash. I know there’s a very large cable that runs to the back — I’m not sure if that’s power (can’t believe that) or just part of the steering somehow. The cable looks like a size 0 wire frankly..

Ok.. I think I’m back a little at least.. I’ve been working on other things. So.. A quick question for ya’ll.. I’m rebuilding the side panel that has the throttle control on it. The plywood is in semi-poor shape. I started making a new one from two pieces of plywood that I got at my local Lowe’s. Unfortunately the standard sheet of plywood (4x8) is not long enough to accommodate this in one piece. I’ve got options — use epoxy and perforated nailing strips OR locate a source for a larger piece of plywood. I’ve got a plywood place to call today but don’t expect them to have an answer but will check none the less. I know that plywood sheets come in much longer lengths than what I need..

My question for ya’ll is where do you source such sheets of ply? Obviously marine grade would be awesome but I’m not expecting to find that necessarily. I live in the Los Angeles area.. Thanks in advance!

Never mind.. my local plywood supplier has 4x10 ACX in 1/2” — it’s an 1/8” thicker than the standard stuff but ought to work great. Now to get out there before the curfews go into effect! This place is right next door to Santa Monica..

Ok.. So I picked up my 4x10 1/2” ACX plywood.. Got it home without it flying away! My question is whether I should seal the plywood with some sort of epoxy paint or some such after I cut the shapes out and before I start upholstering...? I doubt the original was sealed in any way but I might be wrong.. Thoughts? In this case I’m doing the side-panels where the throttle control is mounted... In theory it should never get wet unless rained on.

I could be wrong. But yes it will get wet. It's treated so I would think your fine.

Ok. Thx.. I ordered some upholstery tools — gotta wait for them now..

If you want to be like Cobalt you’d resin it! Seriously though, if you got marine ply you’ll be fine.

I don’t have marine ply so to speak but it’s ACX which the spec claims uses waterproof glues to put together the laminate sheets. Maybe I’ll take a look at the local stores and see if they’ve got anything.. I don’t frankly expect to have the boat when these pieces of wood fall apart in 20+ years. Famous last words..

Just buy a pint of fiberglass resin and paint all exposed surfaces and through holes, will last forever.