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Now I'm wondering if I should replace another on the aux switch. Using the voltmeter first to see if the switch is hot.

Big Block Power wrote: Fri Jul 14, 2017 9:16 pm I'm pretty sure another member just posted in another thread that same thing happened with his led and his dealer stocked the led.lol.

Yep. My dealer keeps them in stock. The one I replaced was on the bilge pump. I knew it should be working because the pump would run, but no LED light.

Driller wrote: Sat Jul 15, 2017 3:13 pm Now I'm wondering if I should replace another on the aux switch. Using the voltmeter first to see if the switch is hot.

If I'm a betting man I would put money on it that it is hot.

I'll let you know when I get around to looking at it. I have a spare LED just in case.

Take a picture of how your spare switches if you take that panel out or if you get a good shot of them.

I'll take pictures next time I'm into the panel, but as I recall the auxiliary switch we are discussing has 2 relatively heavy gauge wires running through the switch (yellow). I looked at the battery setup today while I was checking the oil and it appears the "House" Battery positive terminal is tied to a positive bar with no fuses whatsoever. There is however a breaker panel mounted under the dash with a breaker for most everything.

As I recall there are only 3 wires attached to the push button switch. A Positive in, A Positive Out, and the connector for the positive lead of the LED light. The device it is functioning must be grounded to the common ground, and the LED is grounded under the dash to a common ground. All LEDs grounding together.

Maybe the setup is Battery / Positive Bar / switch / Breaker Panel / Device.

Maybe nothing is tied to breaker panel? Will have to dig a little deeper.

On my 220 aux switches have power to them. And the led has the ground hooked up. I remove a wire from the switched side of the switch and hooked my positive wire from my chart plotter at that piont on switch. I also attached positive from led to same. Then i attached my negative from the chartplotter to ground. Now I have switched power to the chart plotter and working led.

FWIW, the captain's call exhaust we just had installed at Gerry's marine used the existing wiring running thru the boat to the switch. They used one of the auxiliary switches for the underwater LED light.