Cobaltchat.com

tgrace98 wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 11:57 am

Tuscany wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 11:49 am

willyswagon wrote: Tue Oct 02, 2018 7:24 pm Well all I can say is.... Folks it's time to check your insurance policy to see what it states about freeze damage coverage.

.......and that's why I would let your dealer take care of it. If something were to freeze, it's totally on them..

Agree 1000% I get people want to do everything themselves. And I admire that. But a cracked motor or drive due to improper winterization can be a 7,000+ dollar mistake. The harbor charges me under 200 bucks to winterize. I just call that my winter insurance policy.

Big Block Power wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 6:12 pm

tgrace98 wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 11:57 am

Tuscany wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 11:49 am

.......and that's why I would let your dealer take care of it. If something were to freeze, it's totally on them..

Agree 1000% I get people want to do everything themselves. And I admire that. But a cracked motor or drive due to improper winterization can be a 7,000+ dollar mistake. The harbor charges me under 200 bucks to winterize. I just call that my winter insurance policy.

I can do this myself all day long but I 100% agree with tgrace. Cheap insurance. Mines $150.00

Fun2Fish wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 8:00 pm

tgrace98 wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 11:57 am

Tuscany wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 11:49 am

.......and that's why I would let your dealer take care of it. If something were to freeze, it's totally on them..

Agree 1000% I get people want to do everything themselves. And I admire that. But a cracked motor or drive due to improper winterization can be a 7,000+ dollar mistake. The harbor charges me under 200 bucks to winterize. I just call that my winter insurance policy.

Do happen to know if the Harbor fogs as part of the process?

ajcampen wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 8:49 pm

Big Block Power wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 6:12 pm

tgrace98 wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 11:57 am


Agree 1000% I get people want to do everything themselves. And I admire that. But a cracked motor or drive due to improper winterization can be a 7,000+ dollar mistake. The harbor charges me under 200 bucks to winterize. I just call that my winter insurance policy.

I can do this myself all day long but I 100% agree with tgrace. Cheap insurance. Mines $150.00

BBP....those who can do...those who can’t pay

Big Block Power wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 9:24 pm

ajcampen wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 8:49 pm

Big Block Power wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 6:12 pm

I can do this myself all day long but I 100% agree with tgrace. Cheap insurance. Mines $150.00

BBP....those who can do...those who can’t pay

Enough out of you. Go back to the cheap seats.

cmattj wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 10:09 pm

Big Block Power wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 9:24 pm

ajcampen wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 8:49 pm

BBP....those who can do...those who can’t pay

Enough out of you. Go back to the cheap seats.

AJ is tough . Actually it’s those who can do .. pay ( because they’ve done it) $150 is cheap lol

I’m still liking the good info on possible insurance opting out without a licensed facility doing the process. Never being down that road so it’s never came up.

cmattj wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 10:09 pm

Big Block Power wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 9:24 pm

ajcampen wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 8:49 pm

BBP....those who can do...those who can’t pay

Enough out of you. Go back to the cheap seats.

AJ is tough . Actually it’s those who can do .. pay ( because they’ve done it) $150 is cheap lol

I’m still liking the good info on possible insurance opting out without a licensed facility doing the process. Never being down that road so it’s never came up.

NE Zack wrote: Thu Oct 04, 2018 8:43 am Well with reading all of your response I have decided how I am going to proceed with the winterizing process.

1. Warm up engine on fresh water from garden hose through flush system (connect next to outdrive not in the engine compartment. (water pickup is different on FWD and I have been advised by dealer not to use muffs)
2. Change engine oil and filter
3. Change gear oil
4. Change fuel filter / water separator
5. Empty raw water using Volvo easy drain system
6. Fill bucket with antifreeze and hook up to Volvo easy drain system via a external pump
7. Start engine and suck in 5 gallons of antifreeze into raw water system
8. Mix up 5 gallons of car antifreeze and hook up to port water intake on bottom of boat for surf system via inboard flush style muffs
9. Turn on port ballast pump
10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 for starboard side
11. Remove spark plugs and spray inside of cylinders with fogging spray and reinstall spark plugs.
12. Remove props and lubricate prop shaft / Reinstall props.
13. Leave out drive in lowered position to allow any water to drain.
14. Plug in Xtream heat xxheat (450 watts)

My boat is kept inside all the time but it is not a conditioned space. The Xtream heater should keep the bilge warm through the entire Nebraska Winter, so technically winterizing is simply a precaution in case of power outage (I would winterize no matter what) My engine has a heat exchanger and the easy drain system so it is technically dummy proof from what 3 dealers (Valley Marine, Buzz's Marine and Parks Marina) have told me, pumping antifreeze in is simply an added precaution).

The surf system was hard to get answers on so I called Cobalt, and spoke with them about what there procedure is before boats are shipped out in the winter time. They told me they do run antifreeze through the ballast pumps the same way I described above, doing it this way allows you to use rv type antifreeze. I then asked what they do to the Volvo engine and was told they simply use the easy drain system that they do not add antifreeze to the engine.

It seems I am getting to know the guys at Cobalt rather good lately (Factory tour, Special trip down for a FWD out drive due to trailer incident, misc calls to accessory / apparel department, and now winterizing questions). Every time they are very helpful and knowledgeable. So a shout out the Cobalt - Compromise Nothing.

P.S. I guess I will declare myself the FWD Expert.

Tuscany wrote: Thu Oct 04, 2018 8:50 am

NE Zack wrote: Thu Oct 04, 2018 8:43 am Well with reading all of your response I have decided how I am going to proceed with the winterizing process.

1. Warm up engine on fresh water from garden hose through flush system (connect next to outdrive not in the engine compartment. (water pickup is different on FWD and I have been advised by dealer not to use muffs)
2. Change engine oil and filter
3. Change gear oil
4. Change fuel filter / water separator
5. Empty raw water using Volvo easy drain system
6. Fill bucket with antifreeze and hook up to Volvo easy drain system via a external pump
7. Start engine and suck in 5 gallons of antifreeze into raw water system
8. Mix up 5 gallons of car antifreeze and hook up to port water intake on bottom of boat for surf system via inboard flush style muffs
9. Turn on port ballast pump
10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 for starboard side
11. Remove spark plugs and spray inside of cylinders with fogging spray and reinstall spark plugs.
12. Remove props and lubricate prop shaft / Reinstall props.
13. Leave out drive in lowered position to allow any water to drain.
14. Plug in Xtream heat xxheat (450 watts)

My boat is kept inside all the time but it is not a conditioned space. The Xtream heater should keep the bilge warm through the entire Nebraska Winter, so technically winterizing is simply a precaution in case of power outage (I would winterize no matter what) My engine has a heat exchanger and the easy drain system so it is technically dummy proof from what 3 dealers (Valley Marine, Buzz's Marine and Parks Marina) have told me, pumping antifreeze in is simply an added precaution).

The surf system was hard to get answers on so I called Cobalt, and spoke with them about what there procedure is before boats are shipped out in the winter time. They told me they do run antifreeze through the ballast pumps the same way I described above, doing it this way allows you to use rv type antifreeze. I then asked what they do to the Volvo engine and was told they simply use the easy drain system that they do not add antifreeze to the engine.

It seems I am getting to know the guys at Cobalt rather good lately (Factory tour, Special trip down for a FWD out drive due to trailer incident, misc calls to accessory / apparel department, and now winterizing questions). Every time they are very helpful and knowledgeable. So a shout out the Cobalt - Compromise Nothing.

P.S. I guess I will declare myself the FWD Expert.

Yeah, That sounds like work.. . I’m waaaay too lazy fo all dat..

Big Block Power wrote: Thu Oct 04, 2018 6:24 am

cmattj wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 10:09 pm

Big Block Power wrote: Wed Oct 03, 2018 9:24 pm

Enough out of you. Go back to the cheap seats.

AJ is tough . Actually it’s those who can do .. pay ( because they’ve done it) $150 is cheap lol

I’m still liking the good info on possible insurance opting out without a licensed facility doing the process. Never being down that road so it’s never came up.

Yea so take some of that AJ

NE Zack wrote: Thu Oct 04, 2018 10:13 am

Tuscany wrote: Thu Oct 04, 2018 8:50 am

NE Zack wrote: Thu Oct 04, 2018 8:43 am Well with reading all of your response I have decided how I am going to proceed with the winterizing process.

1. Warm up engine on fresh water from garden hose through flush system (connect next to outdrive not in the engine compartment. (water pickup is different on FWD and I have been advised by dealer not to use muffs)
2. Change engine oil and filter
3. Change gear oil
4. Change fuel filter / water separator
5. Empty raw water using Volvo easy drain system
6. Fill bucket with antifreeze and hook up to Volvo easy drain system via a external pump
7. Start engine and suck in 5 gallons of antifreeze into raw water system
8. Mix up 5 gallons of car antifreeze and hook up to port water intake on bottom of boat for surf system via inboard flush style muffs
9. Turn on port ballast pump
10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 for starboard side
11. Remove spark plugs and spray inside of cylinders with fogging spray and reinstall spark plugs.
12. Remove props and lubricate prop shaft / Reinstall props.
13. Leave out drive in lowered position to allow any water to drain.
14. Plug in Xtream heat xxheat (450 watts)

My boat is kept inside all the time but it is not a conditioned space. The Xtream heater should keep the bilge warm through the entire Nebraska Winter, so technically winterizing is simply a precaution in case of power outage (I would winterize no matter what) My engine has a heat exchanger and the easy drain system so it is technically dummy proof from what 3 dealers (Valley Marine, Buzz's Marine and Parks Marina) have told me, pumping antifreeze in is simply an added precaution).

The surf system was hard to get answers on so I called Cobalt, and spoke with them about what there procedure is before boats are shipped out in the winter time. They told me they do run antifreeze through the ballast pumps the same way I described above, doing it this way allows you to use rv type antifreeze. I then asked what they do to the Volvo engine and was told they simply use the easy drain system that they do not add antifreeze to the engine.

It seems I am getting to know the guys at Cobalt rather good lately (Factory tour, Special trip down for a FWD out drive due to trailer incident, misc calls to accessory / apparel department, and now winterizing questions). Every time they are very helpful and knowledgeable. So a shout out the Cobalt - Compromise Nothing.

P.S. I guess I will declare myself the FWD Expert.

Yeah, That sounds like work.. . I’m waaaay too lazy fo all dat..

My guess is most dealers are waaaay too lazy fo all dat.. as well which is why i prefer to do all my own maintenance.

NE Zack wrote: Thu Oct 04, 2018 8:43 am Well with reading all of your response I have decided how I am going to proceed with the winterizing process.

1. Warm up engine on fresh water from garden hose through flush system (connect next to outdrive not in the engine compartment. (water pickup is different on FWD and I have been advised by dealer not to use muffs)
2. Change engine oil and filter
3. Change gear oil
4. Change fuel filter / water separator
5. Empty raw water using Volvo easy drain system
6. Fill bucket with antifreeze and hook up to Volvo easy drain system via a external pump
7. Start engine and suck in 5 gallons of antifreeze into raw water system
8. Mix up 5 gallons of car antifreeze and hook up to port water intake on bottom of boat for surf system via inboard flush style muffs
9. Turn on port ballast pump
10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 for starboard side
11. Remove spark plugs and spray inside of cylinders with fogging spray and reinstall spark plugs.
12. Remove props and lubricate prop shaft / Reinstall props.
13. Leave out drive in lowered position to allow any water to drain.
14. Plug in Xtream heat xxheat (450 watts)

My boat is kept inside all the time but it is not a conditioned space. The Xtream heater should keep the bilge warm through the entire Nebraska Winter, so technically winterizing is simply a precaution in case of power outage (I would winterize no matter what) My engine has a heat exchanger and the easy drain system so it is technically dummy proof from what 3 dealers (Valley Marine, Buzz's Marine and Parks Marina) have told me, pumping antifreeze in is simply an added precaution).

The surf system was hard to get answers on so I called Cobalt, and spoke with them about what there procedure is before boats are shipped out in the winter time. They told me they do run antifreeze through the ballast pumps the same way I described above, doing it this way allows you to use rv type antifreeze. I then asked what they do to the Volvo engine and was told they simply use the easy drain system that they do not add antifreeze to the engine.

It seems I am getting to know the guys at Cobalt rather good lately (Factory tour, Special trip down for a FWD out drive due to trailer incident, misc calls to accessory / apparel department, and now winterizing questions). Every time they are very helpful and knowledgeable. So a shout out the Cobalt - Compromise Nothing.

P.S. I guess I will declare myself the FWD Expert.