Cobaltchat.com

Big Block Power wrote: Fri Mar 18, 2022 7:09 am It uses a water sensor. Plus he's a garage boater like me.

Oh ok, I’ve never seen one without a mechanical float…but I also don’t go shopping around for bilge pumps very often. They must measure resistance between a pair of exposed probes, similar to a moisture meter. Cool idea, but I’d throw a bucket of water in the bilge regularly to test it.

Big Block Power wrote: Fri Mar 18, 2022 7:09 am

tomace13 wrote: Fri Mar 18, 2022 6:53 am

Bfun220 wrote: Thu Mar 17, 2022 9:58 pm
It's been a while since I did this. But if memory serves me, after stuffing myself in there I believe there are a couple screws that hold the plate and then just unplug the pump and plate and pump come out together.
Moving parts tend to fail, so I removed the float. New pump has no external or internal float.

That’s brave. Here’s to hoping you never forget your drain plug or develop a leak in your bellows.

It uses a water sensor. Plus he's a garage boater like me.

It has an electronic water sensor. But yes, I am brave.
I dream of the day I can out garage boat BB.

2004 220
Internal Bilge Pump Model for a good replacement? GPM of existing pump? Is there a standard GPM for 22" boat? I don't wand destroy existing pump yet.

Look at the size of the tubing leaving the pump, get the largest pump that uses that size tubing, or you will have to replumb it.

Thanks good tip

2004 220

I got the bilge pump out. its a Mayfair Marine Model 3210, 1000 GPH, and the manual float is model 2601. The secret is to remove the fiber board (2 screws) that the pump is sitting on. The picture below shows the pump on the fiber board and my feet. Its a cartridge pump, AND of course, the pump and the float NOW works perfect since I removed it from under the engine. I could replace the pump cartridge and the float and be done, but I think I want a new automatic pump after almost 20 years. I think I'm going to get Johnson Pump 01674-001 1600 GPH. Mayfair Marine is a Johnson pump company, however, they want you to buy a new cartridge. I don't want a 60's float- there was a time that's all there was... a float.

Way to go! That did not look like fun.

I probably have something very similar in my 2007 240. All I know is that the placement of the bilge pump completely prevents me from using the oil quick drain hose meant to go out the transom drain hole. I spent 30 or 40 minutes trying every which way to route that damn oil drain hose out through the transom hole and failed miserably.

How bad was it to access and remove those two screws?

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Thanks for the pics sab220. As referenced in my post on the first page, this is the easiest method to remove the bilge pump. It’s how we did it as well.

Titaniumboy - on my boat you need a 12" #2 Philips for one screw and a short stubby #2 Philips for the other screw directly below the engine. YOU TOTALLY correct about the oil drain ... what a PIA that oil drain is... I have to disconnect the hatch support, have my significant other pull on the tether and with my left hand try to feed the drain line out the boat plug around the pump (Cobalt designers weren't talking to each other on this one). The boat plug is a 1/6" larger then the oil drain plug. I thought about increasing the size of the boat plug but not sure how to do that.

SO, when I get the new automatic pump w/o the float, that will allow me to move the pump forward on the board/plate allowing more room for the oil drain and the tether... I hope!

Kinda concerned with height of the pump now...may have to get the short stubby pump

Last Call. For the record its a Johnson Pump 36152 Electro-Magnetic Float Switch, and Johnson Pumps 32903 Cartridge Bilge Pump with Dura-Port - 1000 GPH Any assembly must be <4" high. I bought a different high capacity pump-no fit 5 1/2" high, returned, recommend you stay with OEM.... it served me well for 20 years.

Need 12 AWG heat butt connectors (I like rubber tape for bilge wiring, heated sleeve? - really need 2 wire to 1 wire butts), 8-3/4" and 8-1/2" machine screws w/ nylon nuts (3 each, drill new holes in plastic plate - I moved the pump forward for the engine oil drain hose & tether), 6" inch zip ties, I did not use the old float wiring (capped), but you can see the Electro-Magnetic Float Switch wiring zip tied to the discharge hose directly connected to the Battery (I use Blue Sea fused battery post terminal blocks).

I now have an automatic pump bilge that works! Wow! Oh, get a small kitchen plastic basin you wash dishes in to test the pump/wiring first before install. Good Luck. Any Q's let me know.

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Nice job and nice documentation Sab.

Thanks for the contribution and enjoy your season .

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