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I totally agree with what you're saying - it makes much more sense that the studs would not be live if the switch is off. Having said that, I have had a trickle charger connected to the studs with the switch off for 10 years and have never had a dead battery. Maybe I've just had really good luck, I don't know. One interesting thing is that when I first hook my trickle charger to the studs (switch off) the red LED light is on, meaning dead or no connection, but then when I check on it a few hours later it's blinking green, then the next day it's solid green. I think that indicates that it found a low battery, charged it, and now it's fully charged. I readily admit that it makes no sense, but it seems to work.

I have a 2011 A25. I used a solar trickle charger all winter connected to the jumping battery studs with my switch in the off position. I assumed it was charging since my batteries worked after six months of sitting. Is that a correct assumption or does the switch need to be in the one ON or both ON position to charge?

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So glad you found us gpetrick…. Hope you get your answer.

And welcome aboard mate.

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A while back I posted that the jumper studs on my 2006 262 were connected to the battery even when the power switch was off. I based this on having kept a trickle charger hooked to those studs with the switch off and never having a dead battery. Well, I was wrong. I put a multi-tester on those jump studs and they're deader than a door nail when the power switch is off. I guess I've just been really lucky with my batteries. My sincere apologies for the misinformation.

Thanks for the follow up Groberts4. Good to keep the information accurate.
This could help others on the site.

Thanks, groberts. Different boats may be wired differently (especially with an ACR), so it makes sense to actually measure and observe how your boat is hooked up than rely on someone else's configuration.