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CBO wrote: Thu Sep 29, 2022 9:42 pm... I have perfected auto paint for many years so I'm hoping this will come as second nature for myself.

Appreciated Jeff - I'm confident if you can correct paint, that you will do great on Gel.

Here is the latest update:
I was not completely happy with the two stern sections and reworked them again;
Here is the port side having refilled it in the two repaired areas - I used a slightly different technique this time: I mixed some of my color matched gel (I have a quart of that, not the paste at this step) with the catalyst but did NOT use the surface agent as did not want the wax on this layer; I brushed that into the re-opened areas and let it get tacky (a little blow from the heat gun to help); then I mixed some more of the paste and layered that over it.


This the repair after it was sanded through the grades and then buffed with the coarse cut compound on the rotary with wool pad.
Note this is just the coarse cut, but already looks pretty good!
Incidentally I think I crossed my references above with the Menzerna - the medium cut polish is the 2500 and the fine is 3500.
Those will be next.
So other than the final polish, the Port side is essentially done.


Now I did that same process on the Starboard side (by the crown on the stern) but STILL not 100% satisfied as could still some darker colour through it
So that got yet another go-around - this time I just coarse sanded and mixed some gel with catalyst and surface sealer and 'painted' it on with a foam brush. That will get sanded tomorrow and hopefully get the same result as the image above.

You are doing a feminil job, those areas are looking superb. Seems to be a little more forgiving than paint. I just dove into the rebuild on my outdrive so at this point the gel correction will be on hold till the beginning of next year. Again, thank you for sharing your techniques and the outcome of your hard work.
Jeff

I used either blue tape or duck tape around the area that gives it a few mm to only sand down. Gel paste does shrink when drying. I use a wide popsicle stick to spread it on. Seemed to have less sanding then. Also used 2000 to 5000 wet sand paper and didn't need much buffing.

Big Block Power wrote: Sat Oct 01, 2022 12:36 pm .. Also used 2000 to 5000 wet sand paper and didn't need much buffing.

I wondered about going to 2000 - honestly it buffs out from 1500 pretty easily (although I also have a 'used' 1500 that I use, so it's probably less abrasive than a new one). Going to 5000 I would have thought not necessary. I'm sure a lot depends on the buffer and compound being used.
I'm already delighted with now 4 of my 5 repairs with just the coarse buffing step and REALLY excited to see the results of the sequential steps when that happens.
Another quick word on colour match (which was the initial subject title of the thread) - have to say the Spectrum is absolutely spot on.
With the latest Gel coating on the Port side, walking up to the boat to inspect it this morning, even though it is 'rough' as it was from the brushed application, you can't see it until quite close and it's the surface imperfect that then gives it away, not at all the colour.

Yea really you only need to go to 2000. I was messing around. 5000 feels like newspaper. But it was nice when done.

Haven't done much in the last week - repairs were completed and the coarse correction done.
Will be working on the Polishing this week in preparation for the ceramic coat.
I ended up opting for the Glidecoat Marine Ceramic - heads up if anyone considering - good deal with the Amazon Prime Early access sale - 20% off.
Got the 250ml bottle which should be good for 2 coats on my 24' plus top deck and interior.
Also bought 12 pack of Chemical Guys Pro-Grade towels, also good deal today.

I think I'm done!!

It turned out pretty good - not perfect, I'm sure a more experienced polisher could have got even more shine out of the gel prior to coating. But I'm happy with the result and enjoyed the experience, even though it was a ton of work!
A couple of things you might not consider if taking this on yourself - I used nearly all the Glidecoat - that was 2 full coats on the Exterior and Interior surfaces plus a single coat on the under-side of the Hull. I have maybe 5-10ml left. (should be enough to do my Wake Tower - I found it does an amazing job on the Chrome parts!) That was for a 24' boat, so plan accordingly.
Be EXTREMELY careful with handling the bottle - putting it down where you might knock it over for example! Can't tell you how many times I nearly did that. Keep the cap on - it's a pain to keep undoing it, but you might be glad you did!
The Buffing Towels - I used about 10 altogether - with the Glidecoat, you apply with the applicator and wipe off almost immediately - be sparing, but use a primary towel for the initial wipe-off and another for the buffing - keep them separate so you know which is which. After a while the primary will become damp - put it aside, use your buffing towel now as the primary and a fresh one for the buffing. Repeat this as you go, adding in new towels for buffing. Now here's the thing - those towels all need to go in the bin!!! Just like it adheres to your gel or paint, it is also adhering to the towels! So when it dries, you now have an abrasive towel. It won't wash out, so just suck it up and bin them.
Cost - and this is DIY remember! - Between the Ceramic, Cutting Compounds/Polishes, buffing Pads and Towels, I'm at about $400 - and that is not including my Rotary Buffer which I bought for this job (I already have a DA Polisher)

Anyway, here it is ....... (sorry, it wasn't too bright by time I took the pics so the shine maybe not showing up great)


and as a reminder, here is that same shoulder in the 'before' shot


Next up will be the trailer - need to clean up some of the rusty spots.
Wonder where I can get some matching Cobalt Blue paint?

That ended up really nice. It is much easier to get dark colors to show reflections than white gelcoat.

You will need to find out who made your trailer and check with them on what paint they used. I need to do some touch up on my trailer also so will be watching to see what you come up with, especially regarding color matching.

Unfortunately Dorsey is no longer in business

Rut row

DEcosse wrote: Mon Oct 17, 2022 7:30 pm
Cost - and this is DIY remember! - Between the Ceramic, Cutting Compounds/Polishes, buffing Pads and Towels, I'm at about $400 - and that is not including my Rotary Buffer which I bought for this job (I already have a DA Polisher)

I forgot to include the Gel - $150 for the quart of Gel and $50 for the patch kit - could have saved the former, the patch kit was all I needed and went a long way!
So that takes material costs to over $600

DEcosse wrote: Tue Oct 18, 2022 2:50 am

DEcosse wrote: Mon Oct 17, 2022 7:30 pm
Cost - and this is DIY remember! - Between the Ceramic, Cutting Compounds/Polishes, buffing Pads and Towels, I'm at about $400 - and that is not including my Rotary Buffer which I bought for this job (I already have a DA Polisher)

I forgot to include the Gel - $150 for the quart of Gel and $50 for the patch kit - could have saved the former, the patch kit was all I needed and went a long way!
So that takes material costs to over $600

Hope you find this message as it looks like you did this repair almost 3 years ago. I'm in a similar spot with a chip in my hull just below the rub rail. It's about 2" long and at most 1/4" wide. Dealer wanted $1200 for repair. I'm guessing that's the we don't want to do it price or here's a bike with no seat price. Either way I'm doing it myself.

I'm debating whether to buy the patch paste repair kit for $57, or buy a quart of the gel coat for $230, and use this :

https://spectrumcolor.com/products/coba ... 6717787377

Looks like you bought the patch paste kit, but 2oz seems like a very small amount. My repair looks like your deepest gouge, but smaller. You think the patch paste kit will be plenty?

I know this question was for DEcosse, he gave me some great pointers when I was doing my repairs. Not sure if he's around anymore, I saw that his boat was for sale at one point. The patch paste is all you need for that repair. The instructions say to mix 1oz of material, I would suggest that you mix 1/2oz because it goes a long way. Plus you will most likely need to fill it twice as it will shrink. You will be surprised how much product is left after you finish the repair.

Awesome, thanks for the info!!

I was able to order the exact gel coat from my dealer, but I assume it's going to be very thin like paint.

So I'm planning on using some cabosil silica filler to thicken it up.

My concern is how much the thickener may alter the color. Anyone have any suggestions?