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billk2632 wrote: Tue Mar 12, 2024 8:29 am Regarding the fuel pump - this is a known issue for VP and is a result of paint chipping away from inside the fuel pump reservoir (why they painted it who knows!) ethanol fuel contributes to the issue.

I thought they fixed that issue WAY before 2014!

bruceb58 wrote: Wed Mar 13, 2024 6:57 pm

billk2632 wrote: Tue Mar 12, 2024 8:29 am Regarding the fuel pump - this is a known issue for VP and is a result of paint chipping away from inside the fuel pump reservoir (why they painted it who knows!) ethanol fuel contributes to the issue.

I thought they fixed that issue WAY before 2014!

According to Man Cave, they have not and he seems to be pretty knowledgeable on the subject. The only "fix" that I am aware of is they removed the screen in the fuel pressure regulator and replaced it with a E clip - I verified my 2014 has this "fix". I have never seen anything official from VP about the paint issue - was it fixed, not fixed or did it even really exist - I think they are pretty silent on the issue. From the inspection I have done (not a total disassembly) my fuel pump appears to be painted, BUT I am having no issues with it or paint chips and I think this is mainly because I never use ethanol fuel.
My point to the OP is the inspection on this is quick and easy AND if this turns out to be his issue, there are alternatives to a new (very expensive) VP fuel pump. Man Cave offers new and rebuilt pumps that he has removed all the paint from - I would at least check them out before I bought a new VP pump. I did my initial inspection, my pump is functioning fine, so I am not planning to dig any deeper into it until / if I start having issues. I will say that IF I ever had to purchase a new pump I would want to see for myself that it did not have paint.

It sounds like the high and low pressure pumps themselves are Carter pumps, and they can be swapped into the fuel pressure pump assembly fairly easily once you've removed paint from the interior surfaces. Of course this guy will do it all for you for $500 or so - https://mancavemechanic.com/

I have 2014 R5 with the VP 380. My fuel pump started whining this summer and I sent it to Troy the ManCaveMechanic who refurbished it for a fair price (~$700? See website). He did not find paint damage on mine, but had other issues. (Failing LP pump, clogged cooling port, float and damaged HP port were all that I found wrong.). I would use again, highly recommended.

Re: windlass, if rope rode starts slipping, replace with all chain and be happy!

Thanks again to all of you for your help and advice.

Can anyone tell me the shift cable length on the R5 with Volvo Penta dual prop outdrive and what is a good brand to buy?

Update-wise. We just got back to Florida 2 weeks ago and I immediately took pics of my fuel pump assembly for Troy at Mancavemechanic. He sent me a rebuilt assembly - turns out I have the 8.1L style. Over the course of a couple hot mornings (afternoons have been way too hot) I managed to replace the assembly, took the boat out and that's all good now. BTW for anyone who doesn't already know this I avoided having to drain the coolant by sucking it all into a 2.5 gal MityVac and that worked perfect. When the job was done and coolant tank back in place I just pumped it right back in from the MityVac with the flexible tube pushed as far down as it would go into the big hose beneath the coolant tank and it all went back in with no air bubbles.

The biggest problem now is the shift/throttle control. Impossible to tell whether you are in neutral, forward or reverse except by whether the boat is moving. I can't feel any detents and it seems like neutral is one position coming from forward and a different position coming from reverse. It's also nearly impossible to modulate RPMs/speed during cruise because the control is so sticky. Very possible to hit the dock while trying to maneuver tight spaces though! And I'm having trouble starting it because sometimes the lever doesn't land on the neutral safety switch when I shut it off so I have to go lever hunting to get it to start. So I want to replace the lever and the shift cable. A mechanic told me the throttle cable is never an issue... Any advice is welcome.

Next problem is the GPS/chartplotter doesn't work so I ordered a new Garmin with Navionics Vision real time route guidance. You must have it here or risk running aground if you want to get out of the marked channels.

Next problem, the depth gage readout in the Volvo instruments sometimes reads Zero - just great. Perhaps a corroded connection? No depth gage = don't leave the channel period... But for when it DOES work, can anyone tell me if the OEM gage reads true depth or depth under keel or something else? My guess from tooling around is it's reading depth below the keel or the sensor position wherever that is.

There's more but that's enough for now.

Thanks,
Ralph

it's marked on both ends of the cable. I know that means you have to take the control off to see it though.

Thanks Bruce,

Could I also see it by removing the cover from the outdrive? Anyway I don't really trust that what's in there is correct. The mechanic told me it was kinked and he had to straighten it.... I just emailed Cobalt Support. There's actually a Cobalt dealer in Port Charlotte near me but they won't even work on this boat because it has an I/O!!

Nope...won't be able to see it there since you can't see the housing at that point. If you tilt the drive up and look at the housing there from underneath, you may see it.