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ok.. I had to do a little searching but found a much more readable schematic..the short and skinny version is that in the 4 wire bundle picture earlier, the red is the hot (12v), and if you connect it to the green the drive goes down -- blue and it goes up. I hope this helps someone else at some point... So, if it weren't 111+ in my garage I'd be out there right now wiring this thing up but its just too hot for me and the sweat is just dripping off me.. yuck!

So.. I’m looking to finish the wiring of this project today in the 111 degree heat here in LA. One question that comes up — the new controller has the lanyard stop switch and the old did not.. So, to utilize that I’m going to have to do some wiring in line with the key circuit I gather. Is the purpose of this part to basically kill the engine IF the lanyard is yanked off without the need to use the key to stop the engine? I’m assuming so..

For now I’ll wire the rest up and leave this as the last little piece to tackle.. that way, hopefully, I can try to start this thing up again...

Ok.. stumped again.. got everything buttoned up pretty much — just enough that I could try to start it and found the forward throttle is stuck and really hard to move but the rear throttle works fine and is easy.. Something is binding in the cable system. On top of that, it looks like I might have to order a shorter cable for the drive unit —- it’s a bit too long and isn’t happy with the final bend where its trying to plug into the driveline... I’m worried that leaving it as-is might be a problem in the making.. I ordered the exact same cable lengths as the old/original ones were, but perhaps this unit sits back a bit more or something..

CobaltRick wrote: Mon Aug 17, 2020 2:34 pm So.. I’m looking to finish the wiring of this project today in the 111 degree heat here in LA. One question that comes up — the new controller has the lanyard stop switch and the old did not.. So, to utilize that I’m going to have to do some wiring in line with the key circuit I gather. Is the purpose of this part to basically kill the engine IF the lanyard is yanked off without the need to use the key to stop the engine? I’m assuming so..

For now I’ll wire the rest up and leave this as the last little piece to tackle.. that way, hopefully, I can try to start this thing up again...

It is designed in case you lose control or fall out of the captains area and lose control and it pulls out and kills the engine. No way does this replace the ign switch.

Thanks BBP!

I went and tinkered with the cabling and control unit to figure out why the forward throttle is binding but the reverse is fine. Turns out that the shift cable moves into the forward position just fine but when the control unit mechanics start engaging the throttle, the shift cable gets yanked a little further by perhaps 1/4" at most probably more like 1/8".. But the cable is maxed out and there's nothing more to pull from it..

the end of the cable at the engine isn't even hooked up yet -- its just dangling. is there some adjustment somewhere in the control unit to account for this or perhaps I need to adjust the adjusters on the engine side?? I've got to look at it closer and figure this out..

If someone has any ideas/suggestions on making the right adjustments when reconnecting the throttle and shift linkage, I'd be greatly appreciative.. I did find this link elsewhere that I think is related, but perhaps for a slightly different age.. My boat has the Alpha 1 unit. I'll probably try their suggestions if I can apply them to my hardware unless someone else has other/better suggestions. Thanks all!!

Ok.. so I just needed to adjust the adjuster on the shift cable and all was well. I installed the drivers replacement seat and it came out good.. Not quite as comfortable as the stock Cobalt but looks 1000% better!

So, I pulled it out of the garage and hooked the water ears up and it fired up easier than I expected. Throttle without shifting works great.. I can go in forward and hear the expected clunk and the prop starts spinning. But, when I put it into reverse, and get the clunk there.. then I engage some throttle and it stalls every time.. What would cause it to stall — is that caused by perhaps the shifter not being quite where it ought to be?? I’m not sure what would do this.. Thoughts??

Yes that sounds like it's not adjusted properly.

Thanks BBP.. the throw on the shift “level” isn’t as far as I would have expected to handle forward, neutral, and reverse.. I’m hoping it’s fairly straight forward to adjust and not one of those suggested shop visits.. I’ll do some homework and see where that leads. Thx!

Ok.. Care of some help over at iBoats forum, I was able to get the service manual for the stern drive and make the necessary adjustments without issue. All is good now — I just need a cotter pin and to fix a fender on the trailer and it’ll be time for water — hopefully in the next day or two.

Good deal. Can't wait to see it on the water!

Here’s a few pics I took a little while ago. You can see the difference between the old vinyl and the new.. Yes, I’ve only done a little — I re-did the side panels on the drivers side and changed out the seat. The rest remains to be done — but its good enough for now to put it on the water.

The seats are made by Wise.. They’re certainly stiffer and the backs are more vertical than the factory seats.. I’ll admit that I like the shape of the factory seats but am not willing to reassemble them from scratch as the wood is toast.. The Wise ones are pretty decent other than that and they have storage underneath which is a bonus. Maybe the factory ones do but mine don’t play well..

And yes, at some point I’ll change the carpet but its just not in the budget at this point.

Very nice man. Bbp approved,

@CobaltRick - I was thinking about replacing my B2B with those same Wise models as they seem to best budget friendly option out there. The only other equivalent I found was from Overton's but the reviews weren't great.. I'm kinda thinking about going the bucket seat route now after hearing your comment about the lack of recline in those Wise seats.

There are at least two other companies out there.. If you happen to have a West Marine location near you I believe they frequently have these seats sitting on the showroom floor to look at and sit in.. At least mine does. They're comfortable enough -- certainly way more firm than the original 30+ year old Cobalts. My other option and yours possibly would be captains chairs if you don't mind losing a pair of seats facing backwards..?

Another brand to checkout is Deckmate. I think they're Chinese mfg?? I don't recall..

One more is GreatLakesSkipper (GLS).. They've got at least 1 but the price is rather spendy at 699 w/o base (and check their shipping if they're far from you -- for me in CA the price would cover the cost of another whole seat -- about $300 if I recall)

If you don't mind the DIY method and your base and skeleton for each is in decent shape you might consider a DIY reupholstery job like seen in the link below.. I bought some of their stuff and its really good.. but it depends on what you want to do and whether your existing seats are in reusable condition or not. Mine are pretty much in bad shape..

https://youtu.be/sBIZlPbsgfY
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ps. In the first photo above (with both old vs new seats) I think you can get the gist of the angular (?) differences in the seat-backs between old vs new from that one photo.. I don't have any major issues with the wise seats.. They're comfortable but just made different and I think they had some engineering goals in mind which kept that seat base the size it is -- as making that angle different would have required a longer seat base I believe or some other engineering change to the seat cushion to perhaps hang-over the end of the base more than it currently does.

Boy, the factory Cobalt seats look like a perfect match to the factory strato bucket seats in my 68 Chevelle.