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AsLan7 wrote: Sat Feb 17, 2018 9:36 am

I bet his daughter is being him run those wires

Roger....Pot the jus.

Exactly. helping him

It must be raining in Az with no new update.

Wiring is in! Dang that took a long time. Started at 9am and finished at 7:45pm. The harnesses fit well, took a long time to fish everything through the boxed frame and get it to come out the right little holes. The junction box worked out great. It's packed, took awhile to route everything cleanly. One fun part is the 7-way harness I ordered is color coded for RVs, which is different than boat & utility trailers. So I had to figure all that out too. Also got breakaway battery and new breakaway switch installed and wired in, and ran a pigtail for the EOH actuator that is supposed to arrive this coming week. It all turned out really clean. All of my connections I made with bullet-style connectors with heat shrink over top, should hopefully keep the connectors dry but also allow easy replacement if necessary. All of my clearance lights were designed to ground through the frame, so I had to solder in ground wires for them.

Brake controller and new factory-match registration numbers arrived this afternoon, so those are on the list for tomorrow. Will get some pics tomorrow, it was dark when I finished tonight.

A7, my daughter surprisingly left the wiring alone

Good to hear. Nut sure why rv wiring would be diff. Should all be the same? Maybe in Germany they are diff. Goofy Mercedes thing?

It's not the car, this is the plug I bought to put on the trailer. Switched from 5-flat to 7-round.

For RV (7 round):

Black is 12v
White is ground
Blue is brake controller signal
Red is left brake/turn
Yellow is reverse
Brown is right brake/turn
Green is running lights

5-flatboat trailer colors:
White is ground
Blue is reverse
Yellow is left brake/turn
Brown is running lights
Green is right brake/turn


Not sure why they are different but they are..

thunder550 wrote: Sat Feb 17, 2018 9:14 pm All of my connections I made with bullet-style connectors with heat shrink over top, should hopefully keep the connectors dry but also allow easy replacement if necessary.

Did you use any sort of dielectric grease on your connections ?

No. Should I have?

I like to use it. I just think it helps keep stuff out of your connections. It also aids in opening the connections down the road.

Good idea. If I have to open them up again I'll definitely do that. For now, hopefully the heat shrink will keep them pretty dry.

Holy crap guys, everything hurts this morning. I sat legs crossed on the driveway for several hours terminating wires and stuff yesterday, leaning forward most of the time. My groin muscles are killing me this morning, for all the wrong reasons!

You went all in... And quickly! Jeff was just talking you into this 5 days ago and look at all that progress! Nice work!

Thanks Nauti


Something weird is going on with my photo attachments...removing from this post and trying in a new one.

Inside the junction box. The loose brown wire coming out of the left side is temporary to run the reverse lockout solenoid. This will be removed when I swap to the solid coupler. Shows location of junction box and breakaway battery. EOH actuator will be mounted in front of the winch stand, I have a wire pigtail run to that location. New 7 wire trailer harness, no more 7-to-5 adapter needed

Breakway switch
Harness made for the brake controller

Good job. Katie if you reread this whole thread he says something and 5 minutes later it's done. T5500000 is one motivated guy
props to you man

Thanks BB. It's almost like a sickness. I get a plan in my head or a problem to figure out and pretty much obsess over it until it's implemented. Actually wish I could relax a little more and not be in such a hurry, would make life a lot easier. Can't turn it off though