Re: Thinking of converting from Surge to EOH
Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2020 12:38 am
Hopefully it doesn't drive people crazy!
It does allow me to find my previous posts in a thread easier.
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Hopefully it doesn't drive people crazy!
Correct...if you re-read my post, that relay setup was prior to me installing EOH. One of our local lakes has a several mile downhill run, probably 5-6% grade, into the marina. I've had issues with trailers in the past dragging the brakes all that way down that hill, heating up the hub, and blowing out seals due to increased pressure. In a previous vehicle, I wired in a switch with a diode to energize the trailer backup wire without backfeeding into the truck itself. This time around, I wanted it plug-and-play, so made a harness that could plug into the vehicle's 7 pin trailer plug, with a momentary trigger switch (rather than a toggle switch) to activate. It worked fine, but not long after I converter the trailer from surge to EOH, making the whole thing moot..bruceb58 wrote: Mon Dec 07, 2020 3:17 pmNormally, with an EOH, the brakes won't be applied while engine braking unless your foot is on the brake pedal at the same time. That's one reason why the EOH is so much better than surge...no dragging the trailer brakes going down a mountain while engine braking.thunder550 wrote: Mon Dec 07, 2020 12:38 pmThe relays I added were before the EOH...that was a way to manually engage the reverse lockout on the surge brakes while not in reverse, so I could avoid dragging the brakes all the way down a hill while engine braking with the tow vehicle.
Ah...I see it now. What threw me was "before EOH". I see it was "time" and not a physical distance thing. Now I also see the comment about surge.thunder550 wrote: Tue Dec 08, 2020 5:37 amCorrect...if you re-read my post, that relay setup was prior to me installing EOH. One of our local lakes has a several mile downhill run, probably 5-6% grade, into the marina. I've had issues with trailers in the past dragging the brakes all that way down that hill, heating up the hub, and blowing out seals due to increased pressure. In a previous vehicle, I wired in a switch with a diode to energize the trailer backup wire without backfeeding into the truck itself. This time around, I wanted it plug-and-play, so made a harness that could plug into the vehicle's 7 pin trailer plug, with a momentary trigger switch (rather than a toggle switch) to activate. It worked fine, but not long after I converter the trailer from surge to EOH, making the whole thing moot..
Ahh I see what you were referring to also, makes sense why it was confusing. Relay inline before the EOH system. Lol.bruceb58 wrote: Tue Dec 08, 2020 10:51 amAh...I see it now. What threw me was "before EOH". I see it was "time" and not a physical distance thing. Now I also see the comment about surge.thunder550 wrote: Tue Dec 08, 2020 5:37 amCorrect...if you re-read my post, that relay setup was prior to me installing EOH. One of our local lakes has a several mile downhill run, probably 5-6% grade, into the marina. I've had issues with trailers in the past dragging the brakes all that way down that hill, heating up the hub, and blowing out seals due to increased pressure. In a previous vehicle, I wired in a switch with a diode to energize the trailer backup wire without backfeeding into the truck itself. This time around, I wanted it plug-and-play, so made a harness that could plug into the vehicle's 7 pin trailer plug, with a momentary trigger switch (rather than a toggle switch) to activate. It worked fine, but not long after I converter the trailer from surge to EOH, making the whole thing moot..
Mine has a place to put a pin in the coupler so you can back it up without having the trailer lights connected. If yours doesn't have that, it might be easier to just swap on a new coupler?sailor55330 wrote: Wed Apr 21, 2021 12:57 pm So, revisiting this thread--a couple of questions-
Which EOH? Seems Hydrastar and Brakerite (Dexter) are the tops
What did you do with the surge brake actuator---lock it out somehow (Bolt, weld--I have no welder) or replace?
You guys have convinced me to do this.
Thanks
I honestly can't remember (don't have the boat out of storage yet) if there is a place for a pin. I think it only has the place for a side key. My gut is telling my I will need to replace, but I'm figuring my old one will be welded in by a master welder and my trailer tongue will be just different enough that it won't be a straight swap. That of course is based on years of do-it-yourself projects that always seem to go that way for me and end up stretching a 30 minute job into a 2 day affair.jhnmdahl wrote: Wed Apr 21, 2021 1:19 pmMine has a place to put a pin in the coupler so you can back it up without having the trailer lights connected. If yours doesn't have that, it might be easier to just swap on a new coupler?sailor55330 wrote: Wed Apr 21, 2021 12:57 pm So, revisiting this thread--a couple of questions-
Which EOH? Seems Hydrastar and Brakerite (Dexter) are the tops
What did you do with the surge brake actuator---lock it out somehow (Bolt, weld--I have no welder) or replace?
You guys have convinced me to do this.
Thanks
Removed the guts and drilled a hole through the coupler and piece that slides. Put in a 5/8" grade 5 boltsailor55330 wrote: Wed Apr 21, 2021 12:57 pm So, revisiting this thread--a couple of questions-
Which EOH? Seems Hydrastar and Brakerite (Dexter) are the tops
What did you do with the surge brake actuator---lock it out somehow (Bolt, weld--I have no welder) or replace?
You guys have convinced me to do this.
Thanks
This was the option that LM offered. I can’t verify, but it has been underwater many times. Looks sealed tight. If you plan of keeping the trailer, it’ll be money well spent. The install looks like something I would leave up to someone else, mostly because I’m getting lazy LOL.sailor55330 wrote: Thu Apr 22, 2021 10:32 am Thanks Tusc----I was leaning towards the Hydrastar as they seem to get really good reviews and they make a totally plug and play system so the only wiring is the 7pin connector... plus knowing how your trailer is built, they probably used the best they could find. It looks like that is the standard version, not the marine which is really made for Salt environments---any chance you can verify?
BTW--How is Miss Ellie doing?
Now, install it myself or have it done for $450......