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3 month old non-acidic oil is better than leaving the season old oil in over the winter. Those acids can etch bearings, and not prevent rust on internals. I bought a boat that had one camshaft lobe get some rust over the winter. I can also vouch that the oil filter had a 2 year old date.
Also new oil is full of (fresh) additives that will soak up moisture, up to its available content. Which will be evaporated off on the first outing.

rabiddawg wrote: Tue Oct 27, 2020 1:39 pm So are y’all changing it again to begin the next season? I don’t like the idea that my oil is 3 months old at the beginning of the season.

I only change mine at the beginning of the season.

Water in the drive. Agree I wouldn’t want to leave it. However, I hope that would show up on my dipstick well before I winterize.

You won't see the water on a drive dipstick. If it did you got much larger problems. I'm not talking cups of water.

dustinm wrote: Tue Oct 27, 2020 3:29 pm 3 month old non-acidic oil is better than leaving the season old oil in over the winter. Those acids can etch bearings, and not prevent rust on internals. I bought a boat that had one camshaft lobe get some rust over the winter. I can also vouch that the oil filter had a 2 year old date.
Also new oil is full of (fresh) additives that will soak up moisture, up to its available content. Which will be evaporated off on the first outing.

Agreed. I also use a oil additive to help coat all the goodies in my engine. The oil might have 15 minutes on it. So it's good and new. Heck the oil on the shelf can be 4 months old so what's the diff?

Big Block Power wrote: Tue Oct 27, 2020 5:54 pm

rabiddawg wrote: Tue Oct 27, 2020 1:39 pm So are y’all changing it again to begin the next season? I don’t like the idea that my oil is 3 months old at the beginning of the season.

I only change mine at the beginning of the season.

Water in the drive. Agree I wouldn’t want to leave it. However, I hope that would show up on my dipstick well before I winterize.

You won't see the water on a drive dipstick. If it did you got much larger problems. I'm not talking cups of water.

That’s what I’m talking about. If the oil is milky on the stick you see it and know you have a problem. If it is not enough to make the oil milky is it an issue?

I’m not buying the acid in the oil as an issue. If changed every season i just can’t see there being that much acid in the crank case. If it is there, it was there the last time you used it too.

I just think changing the oils at winterize is a waste unless you change it again in spring. I’ve seen equipment have condensate in them after sitting up. Whose to say your winter oil change doesn’t have water in it come spring?

To each his own I guess.

The acid comes from a season of combustion processes. It will also attract more moisture.

Water is bad but nothing like acid. Water can and will be evaporated off when you bring your engine up to temp, acid will not..

Your oil contains additives for both and more than likely will have enough remaining after a season of use to cover a winter storage period.

IDK why you would want to leave the acidic oil plus all the condensation it will collect thus giving the engine a possible double whammy attack when you plan to change it in the spring anyway.

dustinm wrote: Wed Oct 28, 2020 1:43 pm The acid comes from a season of combustion processes. It will also attract more moisture.

Water is bad but nothing like acid. Water can and will be evaporated off when you bring your engine up to temp, acid will not..

Your oil contains additives for both and more than likely will have enough remaining after a season of use to cover a winter storage period.

IDK why you would want to leave the acidic oil plus all the condensation it will collect thus giving the engine a possible double whammy attack when you plan to change it in the spring anyway.

Yep agreed. We all do it diff. The hot drive unit in the cold water will condensate and that's where you can get small amounts of water in you drive that you won't see on a dipstick. But you will see it when you drain it. So if you store your boat outside that water can freeze and could crack anything down at the bottom of the drive. Be it a seal or worst a case? Just saying I would change it. Again each his own.

Big Block Power wrote: Wed Oct 28, 2020 1:52 pm

dustinm wrote: Wed Oct 28, 2020 1:43 pm The acid comes from a season of combustion processes. It will also attract more moisture.

Water is bad but nothing like acid. Water can and will be evaporated off when you bring your engine up to temp, acid will not..

Your oil contains additives for both and more than likely will have enough remaining after a season of use to cover a winter storage period.

IDK why you would want to leave the acidic oil plus all the condensation it will collect thus giving the engine a possible double whammy attack when you plan to change it in the spring anyway.

Yep agreed. We all do it diff. The hot drive unit in the cold water will condensate and that's where you can get small amounts of water in you drive that you won't see on a dipstick. But you will see it when you drain it. So if you store your boat outside that water can freeze and could crack anything down at the bottom of the drive. Be it a seal or worst a case? Just saying I would change it. Again each his own.

If there is enough water in there to make it milky (on the dip stick) I have a problem. If not, I’m not worrying about it. If it’s not milky how do you know there is water in it or not?

Almost all the engine oil drains back into the crankcase. Any acid will be there. I don’t believe our limited use creates enough acid to worry about.

Maybe it’s different up nort where it freezes over. I may not winterize down here as we can get some 80 degree days in December. I might want to go for a ride.

Everything is diff up here in the nort!

Yes it is entirely different when you can boat year round.

Hi Gents,
First, I will say we have some very experienced boaters here - and some great advice. Great forum! I worked in the petro additives business and have a bit of knowledge on oil tests and additive packages. That said, I find that most boaters, and even more Cobalt owners, tend to "over maintain" our boats. Most of the oil and lube I replace is most likely only at half its life - LOL. Anyway, I agree with the acids or water in the oil and the benefit changing engine and gear lube at the end of the season (before the long winter's nap). Plus, that way when good weather finally arrives in April, I have one less thing to do before the annual first splash. I'll be checking on my 232 Saturday - cleaning the vinyl and putting on some 303.
Best,
Chris

Big Block Power wrote: Tue Oct 27, 2020 5:56 pm

dustinm wrote: Tue Oct 27, 2020 3:29 pm 3 month old non-acidic oil is better than leaving the season old oil in over the winter. Those acids can etch bearings, and not prevent rust on internals. I bought a boat that had one camshaft lobe get some rust over the winter. I can also vouch that the oil filter had a 2 year old date.
Also new oil is full of (fresh) additives that will soak up moisture, up to its available content. Which will be evaporated off on the first outing.

Agreed. I also use a oil additive to help coat all the goodies in my engine. The oil might have 15 minutes on it. So it's good and new. Heck the oil on the shelf can be 4 months old so what's the diff?

What oil additive do you use?

Krob1114 wrote: Fri Nov 06, 2020 5:15 am

Big Block Power wrote: Tue Oct 27, 2020 5:56 pm

dustinm wrote: Tue Oct 27, 2020 3:29 pm 3 month old non-acidic oil is better than leaving the season old oil in over the winter. Those acids can etch bearings, and not prevent rust on internals. I bought a boat that had one camshaft lobe get some rust over the winter. I can also vouch that the oil filter had a 2 year old date.
Also new oil is full of (fresh) additives that will soak up moisture, up to its available content. Which will be evaporated off on the first outing.

Agreed. I also use a oil additive to help coat all the goodies in my engine. The oil might have 15 minutes on it. So it's good and new. Heck the oil on the shelf can be 4 months old so what's the diff?

What oil additive do you use?

I use this in every engine I have.
Watch some you tube vids of it. I've seen it all in person. Good stuff.

Big Block Power wrote: Fri Nov 06, 2020 6:06 am
I use this in every engine I have.
Watch some you tube vids of it. I've seen it all in person. Good stuff.

.
I’ve seen some of their vids?
Are you a graduate of BG academy?

.

AsLan7 wrote: Fri Nov 06, 2020 9:35 am

Big Block Power wrote: Fri Nov 06, 2020 6:06 am
I use this in every engine I have.
Watch some you tube vids of it. I've seen it all in person. Good stuff.

.
I’ve seen some of their vids?
Are you a graduate of BG academy?

.

Oh yea lots of certificates on my office wall. Lol

Anyone mention pulling the batteries?
I'm keeping my boat in a dry stack. Getting it winterized at the other side of the lake. 30 min away. Once that deed is done I have to launch it off the trailer and paddle it around to the docks where the forklift can get it. This is due to reputations of the different shops.
Anyone else have a similar story?