Cobaltchat.com

tgrace98 wrote: Wed Jan 02, 2019 8:31 pm

NautiGirl wrote: Wed Jan 02, 2019 7:57 pm

tgrace98 wrote: Sun Dec 30, 2018 5:58 pm

It’s 1200 for the table the first thing that gets nixed from the list is the stereo package. I know I can do it myself or a stereo shop for much much cheaper. It all depends on the percentage I get off list.

The stereo package is a tough call. I did quite a bit of snooping during the factory tour, they are doing a really good job of stereo's on the new boats. Gone are the days of inadequate wiring and under powered amps - thanks Malibu?

You could most likely do it cheaper if you were to shop for deals and install everything yourself. Just as a benchmark our local hometown stereo shop quoted me $1100 in labor alone to install new speakers two amps and a sub. I laughed and walked out.

I would strongly consider the factory stereo package for one reason - it means Cobalt cuts the appropriate holes in the hull at the factory. Ask BBP how nervous he is about cutting a hole for a new Sub - then multiply that by 1000 when you are cutting a hole in the back of your shiny new R7 for transom speakers.

Decisions Decisions.

Yeah you and Dane both make really good points. And this is exactly why I’m not running to the dealer to place an order.

I think after reading every post in the 380 vs 430 thread I think I’m axing the 430 for the 380. With the section of table rock I’m on conditions are rarely good for going 50+ mph so I’d rather have the faster time to plane and the mid range.

So that being said the mid range stereo with the 2 tower speakers and transom speakers is probably the route I’ll go. So now back to colors.

Good call on the 380. Just as an FYI cobalt claims that their towers come pre-wired for the largest stereo option regardless of what is on the build sheet. So even if you buy a boat with no tower option the wires are in the tower for four total speakers. I was going to say skip the towers then add them yourself to save some coin - problem is you will not have enough amp channels to run towers so it will be a pain in the ass.

Yeah - so I guess there are several really convincing arguments for just letting cobalt install the damn stereo. Hell I bet if you made the trip to KS our buddy Rick would let you sit in the boat while the factory did it, just to supervise their work.

If you do order its TOTALLY worth the trip to KS to see the factory. I bet if you made some phone calls you could plan it when your boat was on the factory floor. Yeah - I would do that. I am 50/50 on you mentioning you are part of the Cobalt Chat group - I think we freaked them out a bit by sitting in the office for 6 hours just talking boats. There may be a restraining order against the group at this point.

NO NO get the 430 add the captains call. Don't listen to Mr. Not so Nauti. Just like a stereo get all the power you can. Skip the stereo. I'll cut the holes. It's not my boat. Yet! Lol.
Get the table.
That color not so much.
I like your wife's choice but not the boot stripe.
Nauti's got there 10 year boat I still need mine.

Big Block Power wrote: Wed Jan 02, 2019 9:06 pm NO NO get the 430 add the captains call. Don't listen to Mr. Not so Nauti. Just like a stereo get all the power you can. Skip the stereo. I'll cut the holes. It's not my boat. Yet! Lol.
Get the table.
That color not so much.
I like your wife's choice but not the boot stripe.
Nauti's got there 10 year boat I still need mine.

But if I am building your 10 year boat I'd have to go with the Merc 8.2 Mag. If you ever get a boat with the 6.2 430hp you will have to change your name to small block power.

Looks like TG is thinking....about an order?

I'd skip the CC.
First, if I ever buy another boat down the road, it will have twins and a CC.

Yeah, I know, it sounds great, but the only way I would order it as of today would be on a Big Block. The VP is a far superior package, but if sound is your thing, then IMO, the single small block VP sound comes up short.
You can't believe the RPM the VP spins at, even when going slow, and I think it would sound like one of those little Japanese compacts.. the VP is freaking loud under the hatch and annoying to begin with. I personally don't want to double down on the sound of it..

Also, I have the premium stereo, and it simply kicks ass. I doubt you would save a dime trying to build it yourself.
Interior space? Sit in an R series and you will see why the A series smaller boats were phased out. The extra room is immediately noticed.

Get..The...Table..
We use it on every trip, and it comes with a mount by the back seat for cove parties..

Tuscany wrote: Thu Jan 03, 2019 8:19 am Looks like TG is thinking....about an order?

I'd skip the CC.
First, if I ever buy another boat down the road, it will have twins and a CC.

Yeah, I know, it sounds great, but the only way I would order it as of today would be on a Big Block. The VP is a far superior package, but if sound is your thing, then IMO, the single small block VP sound comes up short.
You can't believe the RPM the VP spins at, even when going slow, and I think it would sound like one of those little Japanese compacts.. the VP is freaking loud under the hatch and annoying to begin with. I personally don't want to double down on the sound of it..

Also, I have the premium stereo, and it simply kicks ass. I doubt you would save a dime trying to build it yourself.
Interior space? Sit in an R series and you will see why the A series smaller boats were phased out. The extra room is immediately noticed.

Get..The...Table..
We use it on every trip, and it comes with a mount by the back seat for cove parties..

So I am pretty sure the order is going to happen. It just depends on what % the Harbor is willing to give me off on if I am going to order in the next few weeks or next fall/winter. Here is the updated list the Wife and I came up with. She wants a useable head for spring/fall boating for when it is to cold to get in the water.

Selected EngineVolvo V8-380CE EVC DP
Color PricingSport w/Edge + Hull Bottom Full Color $1443
Selected Options
Mooring Cover $1518
Prem Sound w/Transom & Arch Spkrs-1 pr. $5401
White Arch, Alum, Folding w/Bimini $7579
COBALT Oval Logo, Recessed $191
Docking Lights-Stainless Steel $518
Flagpole w/Flag $527
Motorbox Actuator $901
Swim Platform Transom Lighting $434
Transom Tilt Switch $211
Bow Center Cushion Insert $712
Colored Quilted-Pattern Stitching $367
Dinette Table w/CP & Sunpad Receptacle $1186
Floor Covering, Sea Grass $1696
Head w/Electric Porcelain Toilet $2278
LED Interior Accent Lighting (RGB) $985
Sunpad Filler Cushion (w/Dinette) $546
Battery Maintainer/Charger, 110v $503
Battery Switch, Dual w/ACR $445
Trim Tabs w/Indicators $1523
Windlass, All Chain w/Anchor $4489

Did I miss anything?

Once you have a man with no legs, you never go back.
https://youtu.be/DKtjBqJ4NxA

Looking and not ordering? Impossible..

Sounds awesome..

Psssst..Don’t buy the flag. The factory will throw that in if asked..
Good move on the porcelain head.. no one wants to use or dirty a portipotty. Everyone in your family will be comfortable using a flush toilet that flushes clean..
With the hard bottom and depth, will a windlass be useable on TR? A windlass is great, but it also leaves your bilge wide open to waves in rough water.
If you are doing an R7, get the cockpit sink. You will use it..a LOT. Kids have sticky hands with snacks and drinks. Adults can spill, and clean water is on tap.
I would also highly recommend the Makassar and SS helm foot plate. It adds the “Cobalt” to the Cobalt..

Remember, the percentage off reflects on actual option costs. You know the number you have in mind.

Yep. You missed writing a check!

I agree with Tusc, you should be able to get the flag thrown in. Ans with the windless, all you will gain is sucking the anchor up. You still have to break it loose by hand. What will it cost getting that pretty badboy stuck in the rocks?

And I would demand the traditional SS docking lights, not the cheap Chinese knockoffs they're putting on the smaller boats.

tgrace98 wrote: Wed Jan 02, 2019 6:27 pm

Table Rockin wrote: Wed Jan 02, 2019 4:10 pm Tim....is it going to be weird if I'm standing right behind you listening eagerly to your negotiations with the Harbor at the boat show?

Is the R7 really longer than the 262? I think the hull is actually slightly longer on the 262....but maybe with the "free space reclamation" the interior is roomier.

It’s about a foot longer. If I had the extended platform they would be the same length. The seat layout of the R7 just makes it seem roomier.

And you are a numbers guy, you can just be my financial advisor lol

Done and done. I will send over an engagement letter here soon to assist you in purchasing your BRAND NEW Cobalt R series. My fee is simply the knowledge gained when purchasing my own new boat.....9 years from now

Ytmsn wrote: Thu Jan 03, 2019 10:18 am Ans with the windless, all you will gain is sucking the anchor up. You still have to break it loose by hand. What will it cost getting that pretty badboy stuck in the rocks?

I've thought about this as well at TR. There are coves that are only 30-50" deep. I guess it depends on how much line the windlass can hold. I also worry about it getting jammed in some rocks. That shit happens to me all the time down there. I have the digger anchor now and thank god for that thing. So the windlass wont start the initial crank up? If it did I would think that would help break it loose......or capsize the boat It its stuck you could also just drive over it and pull from the direction it got snagged.

Nauti - so your saying all the towers are pre-wired? So my 2017 R7 has the wires already in there? Is this confirmed? I know the holes are pre-drilled. Mine has little rubber caps in them.

Table Rockin wrote: Thu Jan 03, 2019 11:02 am

Ytmsn wrote: Thu Jan 03, 2019 10:18 am Ans with the windless, all you will gain is sucking the anchor up. You still have to break it loose by hand. What will it cost getting that pretty badboy stuck in the rocks?

I've thought about this as well at TR. There are coves that are only 30-50" deep. I guess it depends on how much line the windlass can hold. I also worry about it getting jammed in some rocks. That shit happens to me all the time down there. I have the digger anchor now and thank god for that thing. So the windlass wont start the initial crank up? If it did I would think that would help break it loose......or capsize the boat It its stuck you could also just drive over it and pull from the direction it got snagged.

Nauti - so your saying all the towers are pre-wired? So my 2017 R7 has the wires already in there? Is this confirmed? I know the holes are pre-drilled. Mine has little rubber caps in them.

TR I don't have a windless but I've seen Matt talk about this. Hopefully he will jump in here and talk about it again. I'm thinking he said you could strip out your windless if you just try to suck it up out of the mud or rocks, so you have to break it loose, pull up straight over the anchor and then winch (wench) it up. Matt?

And I'm sure your boat is pre-wired. It may not be big enough wiring, but I'm betting it's there.

Table Rockin wrote: Thu Jan 03, 2019 11:02 am

Ytmsn wrote: Thu Jan 03, 2019 10:18 am Ans with the windless, all you will gain is sucking the anchor up. You still have to break it loose by hand. What will it cost getting that pretty badboy stuck in the rocks?

Nauti - so your saying all the towers are pre-wired? So my 2017 R7 has the wires already in there? Is this confirmed? I know the holes are pre-drilled. Mine has little rubber caps in them.

I wouldn't be surprised if the wires are there. My dad spent some time working for a company that supplied wiring harnesses to Ford for F250/350/450 trucks. They spent ungodly amounts of time building different harnesses to support the various trim levels trucks. Cobalt isnt building the main harness in house, at their level of production it's cheaper to spec a single harness for each model instead of trying to build one off's.

I’ve noticed a lot of people on table rock will use their windlass to get the boat to hold location then toss another anchor and pull up the windlass.

Maybe I should scratch the windlass because I’ve almost gotten my digger to the point of no return a few times.

It comes with 75ft of chain so I should have no issues finding coves that I have enough chain for. It is just the retrieval that I would be scared of.

Also I just had the flag pole on there because I will have one wether it’s on the build or I make them throw one in for free.

tgrace98 wrote: Thu Jan 03, 2019 12:06 pm I’ve noticed a lot of people on table rock will use their windlass to get the boat to hold location then toss another anchor and pull up the windlass.

Maybe I should scratch the windlass because I’ve almost gotten my digger to the point of no return a few times.

It comes with 75ft of chain so I should have no issues finding coves that I have enough chain for. It is just the retrieval that I would be scared of.

Also I just had the flag pole on there because I will have one wether it’s on the build or I make them throw one in for free.

The Windlass ...

I just bump forward as I retrieve it. Once directly over it I watch it magically come up from the depths. ( Yes the clutch can slip if overloaded but it’s designed for safety)

If it’s covered in mud etc, I just drop it a couple of feet below the water line, and back up 20 feet to instantly rinse it clean.

Once bumped in I lock it... close the hatch door. And drive away.

No muddy water droplets all over the bow and seats. Zero arm pump and strain ... And I haven’t drifted during the retrieval.

Remember your pulling the boat and anchor with a manual version unless you have someone pull forward for you while you pull up 75 feet of anchor .

Keep the windlass. !!There fun and cheap to replace if you have to cut her loose in the possible forever snag ( very unlikely)

Besides when I come to go boating I’m not pulling it up while holding my lemonade

cmattj wrote: Thu Jan 03, 2019 2:23 pm

tgrace98 wrote: Thu Jan 03, 2019 12:06 pm I’ve noticed a lot of people on table rock will use their windlass to get the boat to hold location then toss another anchor and pull up the windlass.

Maybe I should scratch the windlass because I’ve almost gotten my digger to the point of no return a few times.

It comes with 75ft of chain so I should have no issues finding coves that I have enough chain for. It is just the retrieval that I would be scared of.

Also I just had the flag pole on there because I will have one wether it’s on the build or I make them throw one in for free.

The Windlass ...

I just bump forward as I retrieve it. Once directly over it I watch it magically come up from the depths. ( Yes the clutch can slip if overloaded but it’s designed for safety)

If it’s covered in mud etc, I just drop it a couple of feet below the water line, and back up 20 feet to instantly rinse it clean.

Once bumped in I lock it... close the hatch door. And drive away.

No muddy water droplets all over the bow and seats. Zero arm pump and strain ... And I haven’t drifted during the retrieval.

Remember your pulling the boat and anchor with a manual version unless you have someone pull forward for you while you pull up 75 feet of anchor .

Keep the windlass. !!There fun and cheap to replace if you have to cut her loose in the possible forever snag ( very unlikely)

Besides when I come to go boating I’m not pulling it up while holding my lemonade

Matt this is exactly what I was hoping you would say. I want my days of spending 20 minutes to drop and retrieve an anchor to be over. Windlass is back on the list

My lake is deep. A lot of the time I have over 100' of chain and role out. I hate retrieving it manually. Asked my dealer how much the anchor locker would hold on my 242 he said "not enough" for Lake Travis. It would be one of the first things I had installed if it would work. Hate manually pulling my anchor.