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Yes, winterization. It's time. Volvo 8.1 Gi engine.
I'm doing it myself, and have the oil change, fuel filter change, lower unit gear oil change down. Question is related to the block draining.

Been all over google and youtube, but can't find a definitive answer to this. I understand all the points on the block to drain water from initially. Think that's easy enough to do. After draining, I'm going to do the flush with 5 gallons antifreeze.

Question is what should you do after the flush with antifreeze? Do you drain out all the antifreeze the same as you just previously drained all the water? Or just let it stay full of antifreeze for the winter?

Also - should I let it pickup the antifreeze through muffs on the outdrive, or can I run a hose to the fresh water flush point on the engine and let it suck it in through there? Any difference?

Well mine still has the antifreeze in it come spring time. Some like the saying air doesn't freeze. I would say through the muffs. But again I pay for mine to get done.

Big Block Power wrote: Wed Sep 26, 2018 6:49 pm Well mine still has the antifreeze in it come spring time. I would say through the muffs. But again I pay for mine to get done.

Agree with BBP.

I use muffs, and leave the antifreeze in. We see -30 Temps on occasion (garage doesn't get that cold) and want the lowest temp RV antifreeze I can find.

For the last 25 years I’ve run 2 gallons of antifreeze mixed with 3 gallons of water through the muffs. In the past I used to drain the block after that. Now I don’t bother. It gets pretty darn cold in Erie PA during the winter. Never once had a freezing issue.

AsLan7 wrote: Thu Sep 27, 2018 6:26 am For the last 25 years I’ve run 2 gallons of antifreeze mixed with 3 gallons of water through the muffs. In the past I used to drain the block after that. Now I don’t bother. It gets pretty darn cold in Erie PA during the winter. Never once had a freezing issue.

Thats what i like to hear. Erie is a heck of a lot worse than Kansas City. I'm leaving it in.

I buy -100 antifreeze from west marine. They match any competitors prices. This year I bought 5 gallons for me and 5 for a friend. They matched the -100 starbrite from Michigan motors website for 5.90$/gallons and shipped free.

I drain engine by pulling plugs, then suck in via muffs and leave in over winter

I don't have an interest in antifreeze. I would like to know the winterization process on a 2012 8.1. I found 4 (or 6, can't remember) blue plastic plugs in the block and manifolds. Other than pulling those plugs (and what is the correct number), what else is there?
Thanks

2ridgebacks wrote: Sun Sep 30, 2018 9:38 am I don't have an interest in antifreeze. I would like to know the winterization process on a 2012 8.1. I found 4 (or 6, can't remember) blue plastic plugs in the block and manifolds. Other than pulling those plugs (and what is the correct number), what else is there?
Thanks

Covered here except how many plugs
Fog engine
Oil change
Gear lube change
Fuel filter change
Oil filter change


viewtopic.php?f=27&t=48

re: number of plugs, there are 4 total. 2 on each side.

Just did all this fun yesterday afternoon. I covered all that AJ posted except the fogging engine part.

JTinMO wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 7:39 am re: number of plugs, there are 4 total. 2 on each side.

Just did all this fun yesterday afternoon. I covered all that AJ posted except the fogging engine part.

Nice work...only thing I forgot is lube props but that can be done in spring

ajcampen wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 11:25 am

JTinMO wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 7:39 am re: number of plugs, there are 4 total. 2 on each side.

Just did all this fun yesterday afternoon. I covered all that AJ posted except the fogging engine part.

Nice work...only thing I forgot is lube props but that can be done in spring

I pulled my props. I had to remove them anyway to change the lower unit gear oil. smeared up a good layer of grease on the shaft, and wrapped in Reynolds wrap for the winter. Props will live in doors for the winter, maybe even get polished when I get bored while the white stuff is on the ground.

Thanks JT!

JTinMO wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 2:19 pm

ajcampen wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 11:25 am

JTinMO wrote: Mon Oct 01, 2018 7:39 am re: number of plugs, there are 4 total. 2 on each side.

Just did all this fun yesterday afternoon. I covered all that AJ posted except the fogging engine part.

Nice work...only thing I forgot is lube props but that can be done in spring

I pulled my props. I had to remove them anyway to change the lower unit gear oil. smeared up a good layer of grease on the shaft, and wrapped in Reynolds wrap for the winter. Props will live in doors for the winter, maybe even get polished when I get bored while the white stuff is on the ground.

can you post a pic of how you wrapped your lower unit / prop area? I have to figure that out for the winter too.

sure, I only wrap the prop shaft in reynolds wrap though, so I'm sure you can envision that. I have the motor lowered all the way down, so no water can accumulate in the lower unit. I don't know of any issues with that method. Does anyone have thoughts to counter that idea?

JTinMO wrote: Tue Oct 02, 2018 9:21 am sure, I only wrap the prop shaft in reynolds wrap though, so I'm sure you can envision that. I have the motor lowered all the way down, so no water can accumulate in the lower unit. I don't know of any issues with that method. Does anyone have thoughts to counter that idea?

We do something similar but instead of aluminum foil, we use Saran Wrap to cover the shaft after greasing it to keep out any moisture. Wrap the shaft and then use either rubber bands or hair ties (rubber bands tend to deteriorate over the winter) to hold it in place. Twisty ties work as well.