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Anyone have any recent experience with automotive labor rates I know we have a couple members in the industry)? I'm in the market for new front and rear shocks on my Sequoia. I called the dealership (2) and they are quoting me 4.2 hours labor for the rear and 3.7hrs for the fronts. Now, I'm not a mechanic, but 4 hours to change a pair of rear shocks that bolt on seems a bit long. Even the fronts seem a little long. I'm watching guys do it on Youtube in 15 minutes real time in their garage without a lift. I could probably do it, but just don't have the desire anymore. The cost for just the labor was $958, or about $120/hour.

Is that really the going rate these days? (BTW, 4 OEM shocks, not shocks and front strut assemblies were $1052) and they would not install aftermarkets (BIlstein) if I supplied them. I guess i'm out of the game, but $2k to replace OEM shocks (not quick strut assemblies) sure seems high, even if you have to deal with a spring compressor. I also got a quote from a well known suspension shop and their cost was over $1700, but broken out much differently. Labor was $935 and parts were $717

Ugh.....talk about sticker shock.

Well pal. We are $135.00 per hour. But that really is a very loose term. In reality I'm about $85.00 I'll look at all data shop rate tomorrow for ya. Unless Matt is reading this at work yet. He's a few hours behind us. Did any of them quote a alignment? What year is your truck again?

As labor guides are pretty accurate keep in mind they have to have a source for them to be realistic. All-data and others use MFG warranty times then use a multiplier to come up with a retail rate for the consumer. ( I.E 1.0 hour x 1.3 = 1.3 hours ).
This is only a guide, and certain conditions can and may vary the time.

Weeew now that I explained that while drinking a Kirkland water.. Lets take a look at All-Data. ( We use this second to GM ). I used a 2008 Toyota Sequoia 4wd. I can always change it.. It appears with no Diagnostic or alignment these are the suggested times in retail. Single side or both

cmattj wrote: Thu Feb 13, 2020 7:12 pm As labor guides are pretty accurate keep in mind they have to have a source for them to be realistic. All-data and others use MFG warranty times then use a multiplier to come up with a retail rate for the consumer. ( I.E 1.0 hour x 1.3 = 1.3 hours ).
This is only a guide, and certain conditions can and may vary the time.

Weeew now that I explained that while drinking a Kirkland water.. Lets take a look at All-Data. ( We use this second to GM ). I used a 2008 Toyota Sequoia 4wd. I can always change it..
TOYOSQ(1).jpg
It appears with no Diagnostic or alignment these are the suggested times in retail. Single side or both

Thanks Mr Kirkland!!
We don't care if you bring in your own parts. I did work at a place that would not but if he did do the repair he would add the mark up of the part that he was losing into the labor. So really you paid the same after all .

Gentlemen, first, thank you both very much for going above and beyond and I really appreciate you giving me such a great benchmark. Clearly it is what it is. I guess I've just been out of the automotive maintenance repair game (company cars and such) for a really long time. Please don't spend any more time on the subject on my account!

Matt as an interesting side, the prices you show are actually cheaper than the Toyota dealership for just parts---the quote they gave me for front shocks alone was $191 each---no spring assembly. Rears were about $90 each.

Maybe it's a sign that after 12 years, I should walk the lots...Now who wants to adopt me for the friends & family code? LOL---I'm kidding!

The prices in all data are never close. Don't ever go by those prices. Yes we don't have to go any further. That's as far as you can go. The rest is up to you. It's cheaper than I new car is what I say. I like people keeping there old trouble free car.

Sailor I have a small network of mechanics that do all of my work. I can do it and have done it, but my time is worth more to me than wrenching on my old auction orphans. I'm in the Auction business and I trade a few vehicles, so as a result, I've found the guys that do good work cheap. On one of my boats I had the motor pulled, rebuilt and reinstalled for just over 2 thousand, and on another for just under three thousand. Recently I had a starter replaced, the e brake fixed and all 4 rotors, brakes and front wheel bearings done on my old LandCruiser for $700. You have to look around. Those guys are out there. Talk to some wholesale auto guys and they'll tell you where they are.

Ytmsn wrote: Thu Feb 13, 2020 9:57 pm Sailor I have a small network of mechanics that do all of my work. I can do it and have done it, but my time is worth more to me than wrenching on my old auction orphans. I'm in the Auction business and I trade a few vehicles, so as a result, I've found the guys that do good work cheap. On one of my boats I had the motor pulled, rebuilt and reinstalled for just over 2 thousand, and on another for just under three thousand. Recently I had a starter replaced, the e brake fixed and all 4 rotors, brakes and front wheel bearings done on my old LandCruiser for $700. You have to look around. Those guys are out there. Talk to some wholesale auto guys and they'll tell you where they are.

Yep I'm on the Corner of state and main! Thanks for the lead Yt

Just got the bmw back from my favorite local independent mechanic. Rear brakes - new pads and rotors - 1.5 hours of labor. All six spark plugs 2 hours of labor.

His labor rate is $100/hr. I could have done all this myself but not in 3.5 hours. He joked that my M series is going to put his kid through college. Perhaps true but at least I have a reasonably priced mechanic I can trust.

NautiGirl wrote: Fri Feb 14, 2020 5:23 pm Just got the bmw back from my favorite local independent mechanic. Rear brakes - new pads and rotors - 1.5 hours of labor. All six spark plugs 2 hours of labor.

His labor rate is $100/hr. I could have done all this myself but not in 3.5 hours. He joked that my M series is going to put his kid through college. Perhaps true but at least I have a reasonably priced mechanic I can trust.

I would put it up for auction quick

I drove home to Columbus oh from Baltimore yesterday after visiting my sister. My Nissan armada’s muffler was hanging down. Apparently the flange between the muffler and exhaust pipe rusted away and is a common problem. A honest shop sent me to a muffler repair specialist that cut out the joint and welded in a new section. All in under 30 min. I walked out with a $65 bill. Feeling blessed. This would have been $1k if parts were the repair

These guys got it right, finding any dealer under $120/hr is tough these days, and for the most part there are no real mechanics at dealers anymore, just parts replacers. I have a small indy I use for stuff I don't want to deal with and they are $100/hr so not bad and I trust them. The one thing I can never bring myself to pay someone to do is brakes. $600+ for literally 2 hours work you can do with nothing but a basic hand tool kit seems crazy to me. Plus, I get the lifetime warranty on pads and rotors at Autozone. I haven't paid for brakes in years, I just bring the worn out pads/rotors in and they give new ones for free.

I had a 1970 Triumph TR6 when I was in college. The clutch went out. Local British Leland dealer quoted me $250 to replace. I was working part time at UPS bringing home $50 a week. I bought a repair book, I think it was Bentley's, and replace it myself in one afternoon with no help. Had to take out radio, seats, carpet, and remove transmission to get to clutch. Used an old mop handle to align clutch and throw out bearing. Maybe 4 hours total. Cost ended up being $55 for parts. Four weeks pay saved for four hours work!