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Hi CobaltChat....I have been reading your forum for a few months and I just joined. I am a potential cobalt owner, But my main purpose at the present is looking for insights into ownership of a 1999 226. I have a down payment on one and on Sat 2/13 I am to do a engine hose test/ and equipment walk thru at the Marina’s shop. I am not the mechanically inclined, have owned a 1989 Celebrity 199 with a Merc 5.0 260hp single prop bow rider for over 20 years and the boat is still humming. But I needed a little more space, grace and speed plus an all fiberglass construction. This will be my 2nd boat. The 1999 is in Mint condition and comes with a custom matching color eagle trailer, It’s white with emerald green sport strip (my wood decking is rotting a bit. The Gel coat, interior and upholstery are in great condition. It’s equipped with a mercruiser 350 Mag MPI 300HP duo prop (SS) with 288 hrs, no bottom paint and freshwater use only. The marina intake survey recorded the engine compression for all of the 8 cylinders at 170, 168, 168, 170, 165, 168, 170, 170. Are these compression readings good? And what do you thinking about buying a 22 yr old boat? I have noticed that these cobalts 226 don’t stay on the market long in my area so hard to pass up in this sellers market. I would have preferred to wait for a test run in the spring before buying but like I said, the market is hot and If I pass up the seller wants to put it back on the market and its likely to be it gone in a week. Another 226 Cobalt, a 2000 with 466 hrs with white gel coat with a blue stripe 350 MAG MPI 300HP was listed at 18K (no trailer) and sold in one week at a competing marina. The boat and trailer I am looking at is costing 20k. I included a few pictures below.

If you can provide any guidance I do appreciate it. Looking forward to being a Cobalt owner...hopefully.

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Hey LC.. welcome to the CobaltChat forum. So glad you found us!

That's a nice model Cobalt you got there. Vinyl and gelcoat look to be in good shape from the pics. Thanks for posting them!

As far as the engine goes, those are very low hours which is great. Plus you will really enjoy stepping up to fuel injection...turn key and go.
Those compression numbers are fine. What's important about compression readings is that they are all close to each other. A good rule of thumb is no more than 10% differential between the highest and lowest reading. If one is way off then that could be a sign of a compression leak. A leak down test is also helpful. It's basically a compression test in reverse....instead of measuring the engine's ability to create pressure, air is pumped into the spark plug hole allowing one to listen/monitor for leaks. A leak-down test can tell you if the loss of compression is due to things like worn rings, burned or stuck open valves (intake or exhaust) or a leaking head gasket.

I must say though, that galvanic corrosion on the outdrive is quite concerning. Make sure the seals are not leaking and the trim cylinders operate correctly.

Make sure you change the fluids, impeller and filters before use. If you really want to be thorough a survey can pay off immensely to uncover any possible hidden damage. Anything rubber will most likely deteriorate over time so be sure to have these areas checked.

Next will be the standard stainless-steel cupholder upgrade. It will instantly bring your boat into the 2000's.

Others will chime in shortly.

Again, welcome aboard mate!

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I agree with Aslan - the engine and boat look good, but the outdrive is so-so.

You can have it cleaned and repainted next time you have it off for service (probably over the winter - not sure the service schedule on that guy, but the bellows and alignment are occasionally done which involves removing the outdrive). It's more than just a rattle can - clean the metal good, then apply several layers including a primer that etches and is specifically made for outdrives before the outdrive-specific color coat. Not a dealbreaker, but something to keep in mind to help it last another 20+ years.

Loce the 226, here’s ours, price is right. Out drive concerning in its condition..

It’s not gonna be just the out drive. Every nut bolt and metal fitting is gonna play hell breaking free.

Mine didn’t look near that bad when I removed it for a bellows change. I had to buy another cylinder tube because the thread pull when I removed the fitting. Got lucky and found a used tube. New Volvo cylinder is $650.

Great looking boat. The price is right, but as others have pointed out, given the looks of that out drive, either that boat has been salty or there’s an electrical current in the water where the boat was stored. Need zincs. Best of luck and congratulations.

Is the skeg chewed up or is it just the pic

Ok I put this thread off long enough. Myself and just myself I wouldn't buy this boat because of what that drive looks like. Just me.

Thanks everyone for giving me a look and pointing out the concerns, The boat was lake kept....outdrive is probably due to currents close to docks, had the same issue with my out drive when I didn’t pay close attention to my sacrificial zincs. It got brutual how my pit drive got chewed. Ever since I made sure I changed my anodes every year, took no more chances. The Skegg is a bit corroded so I’m thinking I have a few years, if not more, before I need to change out the lower unit, which can be expensive. I will be sure to check out the rubber for corrosion. This is a 2 owner boat, I would be the 3rd. Speaking with the cobalt dealer (only one on the lake) this boat used to be maintained by them until the first owner sold. Then maintained by the marina who is brokering the sale.

Big Block - I’m surprised your saying no to the deal. What’s your concern regarding the outdrive that I should be aware of?

Also plan on getting the outdrive sanded and painted if I do purchase

Nothing I would own would look like that. Like I said just me. To me it shows someone didn't care. I care what my stuff looks like.

Thanks BB I get your point, though these cobalts are far and few between in my geographical location that are fresh water kept. I took a closer look at the outdrive (see pic), Most of the pitting is superficial upon close inspection. The skegg is a bit jagged and its likely I would probably pull the lower unit (to ship out to get repaired. But my other issue is now with the shift. I was able to hose test the boat today. Engine fired up fine, it held its temp. Was able to rev while the neutral clutch was engaged. However, we we went to check to see forward and reverse functions we could not get the boat to go in gear (either forward or reverse). The mechanic on site said it was possible the cable was frozen (he could budge it either). They were going to try and thaw out...still have to check if this will work. Not sure if this is a bigger problem or not. And whether I should walk. It was 21 degrees outside today and we had a cold streak here in the Northeast these past 2 weeks.

I also get what you say about pride in ownership, the engine compartment was a little dirty with some mold. We noticed the mooring cover didn’t have any vents and the dealer said the owner used the boat maybe twice last season....boat probably sat more than it was run. Neglect is likely but elbow grease can take care of that real quick. Again my biggest concern not is the shifting,

On the flip side, the cobalt dealer down the lake is selling a 2006 Cobalt 226 with the same setup plus an extended cobalt factory installed swim platform for 32K (no trailer...which I think is over priced. Also has more hours about 600 and I can’t tell the condition of the outdrive. It’s an option but not at 12K more. If I can get it for 24=25k then its worth my while.

Sorry a 226 is a 20k boat here at the most unless it had a BB in it. With a trailer. And Prob around 300 hours. Just saying. Most covers don't have vents. That's pretty common. I have a BB for $45k just saying!

Big Block Power wrote: Fri Feb 12, 2021 6:06 am Sorry a 226 is a 20k boat here at the most unless it had a BB in it. With a trailer. And Prob around 300 hours. Just saying. Most covers don't have vents. That's pretty common. I have a BB for $45k just saying!

Yours isn’t for sale stop it!

Lake Cadillac wrote: Thu Feb 11, 2021 9:51 pmWe noticed the mooring cover didn’t have any vents and the dealer said the owner used the boat maybe twice last season

I make boat covers and I always put vents on them now...even in California which is pretty dry. I usually use the Taylor Boat-Vent II that you can put a pole into if you want. MY R5 has a ton of vents in its factory cover.