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As some of you know, we did a major stereo upgrade to our boat in 2019. The entire boat was re-wired, we added 6 new house speakers, 2 transom speakers, and (2) 10" subs. Everything is JL. The house speakers and transom speakers are MX ( the lower end speakers), but we chose them because we thought they sounded better than the M (higher end) series. The amps and subs are M series. All of this was installed a a very reputable shop here in town. We used the M series amps and subs at their recommendation. There are 2 subs. An M Series 800/8 runs the house and transom speakers. They all get 100 watts on their own channel, and the sound quality is amazing.

The subs are powered by a 600/1 JL amp. Right now the subs are out of the boat and being sent back to JL for the THIRD TIME because they keep blowing. I really don't know if they are being covered by the manufacturer's warranty, or the warranty the shop gave me for their installation (lifetime). All I know is every time I have had a problem, they fix it. I'm getting pretty tired of taking the boat to them to have them pulled out, putting it back in storage, taking the boat back to have the new ones installed, making it about half way through the season, and having 1 or both subs blow.

I've asked the installer how loud we should turn it up. The head unit goes to 40, and he said 30 should have no problems at all. If you've heard the system you know it is insanely clear and loud. After the second time I told him I was really tired of this whole process, I spent good money to get a kick ass system, and he needed to make it right. Supposedly he has turned the amps down twice now, but we are still getting the same result. I looked and these subs say they should not get more than (I think) 200-225 watts. The installer told me he has the amp turned down to about 50%, and last time he did something with the crossover that JL had suggested. Still blew the new speakers. I was just up there 2 weeks ago having the blown subs taken back out, and now we are waiting for JL to ship new ones.

The installer is a great guy, and I have NO reason to doubt that he knows his stuff. I just don't understand what is happening. I have the best marine subs JL makes supposedly. He talked about moving me up to 12" speakers, but those wouldn't fit where we have them mounted. I want the bass to rattle our teeth like it does now, but not if it is going to turn into this madness every year or more. I spent a pretty penny on this system, so the last thing I want to do is spend more money on it. What do I need to do to insure this gets fixed? What are some suggestions I can make to the installer? My brother said I should have them install some competition subs, but where they are mounted they definitely see some water from people climbing over them getting in and out of the boat. What do you folks think?

I'm not a jl pro. I admit it
I don't know the exact Model other than MX which I'm seeing 175w and is he running them at 4 ohms?
So the amp is pushing 300W. To me that's a big no no. Even with the gain turned down that's not the correct way to run these. So if it's me and you want to keep 10 inch as the bilge princess won't complain about 10 inches I would switch to a sub that can handle that power. You will still get that punch. I would ask him to sell them to you at his cost of that is more than the list price he sold you the jl for. That's my opinion take it for what's it's worth. Some say nothing! I might agree though
I mean what are we taking you would have to sell 1 more fence post? Do it!

I really don’t know if they are at 4 ohms. I assume they are. I really don’t want to spend any more money on them, but something has to change!

What is the model number of the subwoofers and the amps?

Sounds like you have a 1 channel amp driving 2 subwoofers. Is that correct?

Do you know if they have the subs wired in series or parallel?

bruceb58 wrote: Mon Feb 22, 2021 1:57 pm What is the model number of the subwoofers and the amps?

Sounds like you have a 1 channel amp driving 2 subwoofers. Is that correct?

According to my receipt the model number for the subs is M10W5-SG-WH. The 600 watt amp just says M600/1. So yes, there is a one channel amp driving both subs that has been bridged.

I installed 6 m6 6.5 speakers and a 10 inch m6 subwoofer I kept the rockford fosgate amp and used the factory wiring for speakers and amp. the system is incredible! I had my son stop by and listen and he was impressed. he is a musician. I hope you figure this out please keep us posted if you are able to determine the problem.

Daniel wrote: Mon Feb 22, 2021 2:05 pm I installed 6 m6 6.5 speakers and a 10 inch m6 subwoofer I kept the rockford fosgate amp and used the factory wiring for speakers and amp. the system is incredible! I had my son stop by and listen and he was impressed. he is a musician. I hope you figure this out please keep us posted if you are able to determine the problem.

I guarantee there will be a solution, but I’m not sure it will be anything I come up with. Lol. That’s why I paid them the money I did.

Its interesting if you look at the manual, they say 250W max but at 250W, they claim warranty is void.

https://assets.sonicelectronix.com/manu ... manual.pdf

Is this your amp?
https://www.amazon.com/XD600-Audio-Mono ... B003RW3YUG

bruceb58 wrote: Mon Feb 22, 2021 2:20 pm Is this your amp?
https://www.amazon.com/XD600-Audio-Mono ... B003RW3YUG

Looks close for sure.

Do you know if the amp is wired to a preaamp output of the receiver?

The amp has two separate subwoofer outputs so that's likely how they are wired. The amp has those outputs wired internally in parallel. There is a sensitive input that can be set for speaker level signals(up to 8v) down to preamp levels(250mV). To adjust so that the output is lower, you need to have it set towards the speaker level. I believe setting it at 50% is still WAY to high.

If it were me, I would just throw my scope on it to see what the output levels are going to but since you likely don't have that luxury, I would turn on some music at a low level and adjust the sensitivity of the amp so its a lot less than what you currently have it set at and see how it goes. Who knows if that input sensitivity is a linear adjust. IOW, having at the 50% point on the dial, may not be 50%.

What is the filter frequency set at? Might as well have it at 200Hz since the speaker really isn't going to be outputting frequencies above that.

https://embed.widencdn.net/pdf/plus/jla ... f?u=ndijqi

bruceb58 wrote: Mon Feb 22, 2021 2:35 pm Do you know if the amp is wired to a preaamp output of the receiver?

The amp has two separate subwoofer outputs so that's likely how they are wired. The amp has those outputs wired internally in parallel. There is a sensitive input that can be set for speaker level signals(up to 8v) down to preamp levels(250mV). To adjust so that the output is lower, you need to have it set towards the speaker level. I believe setting it at 50% is still WAY to high.

If it were me, I would just throw my scope on it to see what the output levels are going to but since you likely don't have that luxury, I would turn on some music at a low level and adjust the sensitivity of the amp so its a lot less than what you currently have it set at and see how it goes. Who knows if that input sensitivity is a linear adjust. IOW, having at the 50% point on the dial, may not be 50%.

What is the filter frequency set at? Might as well have it at 200Hz since the speaker really isn't going to be outputting frequencies above that.

https://embed.widencdn.net/pdf/plus/jla ... f?u=ndijqi

These are questions I’ll have to ask the installer. I appreciate the input and I will definitely get some answers.

shrfdeputy wrote: Mon Feb 22, 2021 2:41 pmThese are questions I’ll have to ask the installer. I appreciate the input and I will definitely get some answers.

Hopefully, he understands how the filter works. If the LP switch is in the off position, the dial setting the cutoff frequency is defeated and the LPF is bypassed.

bruceb58 wrote: Mon Feb 22, 2021 2:16 pm Its interesting if you look at the manual, they say 250W max but at 250W, they claim warranty is void.

https://assets.sonicelectronix.com/manu ... manual.pdf

Actually is closer to the 200w it starts at.
Good info here though.

I'm sure they have a meter to set up the gain and other levels? Ask them. I bought one when I did mine and Jeef did his. Those help protect the system. Then you shouldn't really above the frequency 80hz you don't want higher freq going to a sub.

https://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-distorti ... dd-36.html