Cobaltchat.com

After lusting over Cobalt boats for over 30 years I've finally checked this item off my bucket list. Bought a 2007 240 with the Volvo Penta 5.7 ltr GXi motor and 310 hours on the clock. Meticulously maintained by a little old lady who drove it to church on Sundays. Thanks for all the insight y'all have provided, leading me to buy this boat.

Couple questions:
Is it common for fuel to spurt out the vent prior to the (properly working) pump to shut off when full? Remedy?

Everything is in great condition except the rubber on the carpets is rotted out and needs replacing. Pretty sure I'm going with Seadek. Anyone have any reason to go with carpet or another material vs. Seadek? FYI, my boat is in a covered slip and I put the Cobalt bow and cockpit cover on after each use.

Is the fuel burn rate chart accurate? If so, it appears that 3,000 RPM is the most fuel efficient for traveling distances. Anyone have another analysis?

I live on Lake Lanier, GA where it certainly freezes during the winter. I'd like to use the boat year round. Is there a safe way to keep the engine from freezing? I have power at my dock. Block heater or some other safe method vs. draining the engine and hoses of all water?

I have not had the opportunity to take photos but promise to put some up soon, as I know that's a quasi requirement on this forum

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Hey TDD

So glad you found us!

Yes normal for fuel to come out the vent when filling. I use my ear to hear it filling and when it changes pitch I stop the pump. I don’t use the auto shutoff at all.

Others will chime in shortly.

Any pics?

And welcome aboard mate!

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I just recently got a Cobalt myself -- after owning SeaRay's for years. I too had wanted a Cobalt for quit some time and the right one finally came along this summer.

Regarding your questions:
Carpet: I have vinyl weave on the inside and SeaDeck on the swim platform. I like them both for where they are, but I personally think the SeaDeck would be too hot in the cockpit - although I do see a lot of boats with it. I have to constantly pour water on the swimdeck to cool it down when we are using it. Just my opinion.

Bilge Heater: Yes, there are several heaters out there that are made for boat engine compartments (Xtreme, BoatSafe). I have a BoatSafe that I used in my SeaRay when we kept it on a lift at a dock - I never winterized -- Lake Norman / Charlotte NC. I think this would work fine for you - I would say be prepared to at least drain your engine when the forecast calls for a cold snap. This is what I did - only concern with the heater is a power outage during a cold snap.

Good luck with the new boat - I used to live in Atlanta and have spent some time on Lake Lanier - pretty lake.

Welcome...Yes, pictures are a requirement.

The rubber backing is coming off our carpet in a couple places as well. My intention is to recoat it with Flex Seal or similar. We do have the Seadeck on our swim platform and passageway into the boat from the platform. I like the way it looks, but it gets hot and dirty fast. I believe it would be too hot for the entire boat.

Sorry, I have no advise on freezing, but our boat originally came from Georgia where it was on a lift. It has a Jasper replacement engine after the original block cracked during a freeze.

Nice choice of year and model.

The burping during gas fillups surprised us also. Embarrassing if it happens at a regular gas station, but potentially very expensive if it happens at a marina fuel dock and gas gets into the water. I listen for the tone change during filling just like Aslan. I also have the key turned on so that I can watch the fuel gauge needle as it moves toward full.

I have used Plasti-Dip twice on the carpets in our 240. The first time was around 5-7 years ago when we found the black rubber backing starting to get hard and flake off. The hard and flaking rubber was on maybe 20-30% of the carpet backing area, with the damage centered around the snap fasteners. Apparently the snap fasteners get hot in the sun and begin damaging the rubber backing. We used one can of Plasti-Dip to coat only the 20-30% that was damaged.

The second time we used Plasti-Dip was last summer. That time we bought two cans and coated the rest of the rubber backing. About $10 or $11 per can at Home Depot, plus a couple of cheap disposable paint brushes. Doesn’t leave any more black marks on the gelcoat than the original rubber backing, and probably is leaving fewer black marks now.

The bang per buck for this procedure is pretty astounding, especially considering the cost of new carpet or SeaDek.

I may try the Plasti-Dip @Titaniumboy - thanks for suggestion. I was going to do the flex seal, but may try that. The carpets are in good shape on the top side, it's just that rubber deterioration that is the problem and it's not terrible, as you suggest typically local to the area closer to fasteners.

But I am also considering https://www.ultradeck.ca/ - @TwoDuckDad, see my post here - viewtopic.php?p=108080#p108080
You might see if, as for my 232, they have a pattern already for your 240.

Welcome
I just did the flex seal on my carpets and they turned out great. Definitely stopped the old backing from flaking off. I figure once a year I will have to touch them up if other areas start to let go.

I'm currently working with ultra deck for mine.
I used rubber roof coding for the back of my carpet a few times. Use white!
I think all floor coverings have their draw backs and advantages.

DEcosse wrote: Wed Sep 21, 2022 8:44 am I may try the Plasti-Dip @Titaniumboy - thanks for suggestion. I was going to do the flex seal, but may try that. The carpets are in good shape on the top side, it's just that rubber deterioration that is the problem and it's not terrible, as you suggest typically local to the area closer to fasteners.

I don’t think you can go wrong with any of the liquid rubber coatings. It is really a shame that the rubber backing is such garbage. I try to take the carpets out of the boat at least once per year and hose them down in the driveway. After drying in the sun and being vacuumed, our carpets look pretty darn good.

Thanks for all the replies. I just bought a Xtreme Heater 600 watt unit with the optional quick release base plate. Although my boat is 24' and the 400 watt heater may suffice, for $50 more I got the 600 watt unit because my boat is on a lift and therefore, doesn't have the water as an insulator. I don't want to have to lower the lift to insulate on cold nights. This heater should provide automated freeze protection...so long as I plug it into power.

Is there a dash warning for engine problems? Similar to a CEL on a car? Is there an OBDI port?

Titaniumboy wrote: Wed Sep 21, 2022 6:08 pm ... I try to take the carpets out of the boat at least once per year and hose them down in the driveway. After drying in the sun and being vacuumed, our carpets look pretty darn good.

I got done repairing the rubber side - scraped out all the stuff that was already all perished (predominantly around the buttons) - in these areas it pretty much removed it completely, back to the webbing. I brush painted (well, disposable foam brush) that in those bare sections pretty thick with Flex Seal, then used a roller to coat the entire backing with the sealer. The back came up really well! (I'll post pics of the back after the top side dries out).

So then I set to cleaning the top. I had just purchased a foam gun attachment for washing the boat and cars, so after trying it out on one of the cars, decided to use that on the boat carpets! In the absence of a carpet shampoo, I just used good old Dawn!!!
I used the jet pretty close to the carpet and used an overlapping spray to thoroughly soap up the rugs. Then I let it soak for a while, not too long, about 30 mins maybe. Then I used the pressure washer with a fan spray head to rinse all the soap out. My driveway has a pretty good slope, which was actually a real asset here. It did take a LOT of rinsing, maybe shouldn't have used so much soap!
The next 'trick' was to use a metal scraper - started from the uphill side and 'squeegee'd' my was down each rug to the downhill end. This really did a great job of getting a lot of the water out. I went back at hourly intervals and here again, the slope had helped me, with the water from the rug draining down towards the downhill section of it. So squeegee'd once again with my scraper at the bottom 6-9" where the water had been collecting.
Each time it got progressively drier.
The sun should do the rest, although there's not much of it left this evening.

Those are turning out nice.

I bet you forgot to take Before pictures. I almost always neglect to take Before pictures to my dismay.

I was indeed remiss @Titaniumboy - really should have taken pics of both sides.
The top sides did have a few grubby stains and it's looking pretty nice now.
The bottom will be obvious where the issues were, even in the 'after' photos (once I post them)

Next time you hose your own rugs down, remember that metal scraper trick if you're not already aware of it. It really helped in getting a lot of the excess water out.

I think I just used water on ours last time along with some spot remover spray. Just getting the spot remover stuff out took a ton of rinsing as it kept making soap bubbles. I should use some kind of soap next time.

I like your metal scraper idea. What are you using? A putty knife?

Our driveway has a bit of slope to it also, but I drape the carpets over a fence to dry. I like to think I’m maximizing the local gravitational field that way.