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I have a 2014 R5 with a VP V8-300, it has the new trim system that is outside the boat in the transom assembly. Would like to install a transom trim switch, I did this on my Merc and it was a Merc supplied switch that was plug and play. Is there a similar switch for a Volvo?

billk2632 wrote: Sun Oct 16, 2022 4:40 pm I have a 2014 R5 with a VP V8-300, it has the new trim system that is outside the boat in the transom assembly. Would like to install a transom trim switch, I did this on my Merc and it was a Merc supplied switch that was plug and play. Is there a similar switch for a Volvo?

The last one I used was the merc one on a Volvo. Was plug and play

You can use the same switch

If you want one that says Volvo Penta, I have the Volvo part# 3855650 that I need to sell.

So I ordered the Merc switch (https://www.wholesalemarine.com/transom ... 00a02.html) and turns out it is not compatible with my VP. The connections are similar, but not the same, here are pics of my VP connections. Not sure which VP switch is the right one, everthing I see online shows pictures of totall different connections. I could go the dealer route, but they are quoting over $200, more than I want to invest in a simple switch. Thank goodness I checked it, I was excited about installing the switch and was getting ready to drill the mounting hole! Maybe I don't really need this, I just have gotten used to having one on my SeaRay.

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You would have to cut the wire on one side of the connector and wire in the Merc switch. You would be cutting the connectors off the new merc switch.

Colors of the wires should be the same.

Well this has been a long time on what I thought would be a simple project. I guess it was pretty simple, just getting the right switch took some time. I wanted to install a transom trim switch on my R5 with a Volvo Penta. The short of it is, the Mercury switch is cheap, but will not work, at least not plug and play - the connectors are different. The VP switch is really made by Cobalt, they rig up a harness with the carling switch and backing plate. It's a nice kit, matches factory exactly, but it's not cheap. I ordered my switch last September and just got it two weeks ago - not sure exactly what went wrong. My dealer adjusted the price for the delays, so that was nice. I installed the switch yesterday, works perfect, exactly like a factory install.

** for some reason it's not letting me attach any pictures, will try to post some later.

Pictures -- cutting that hole was a bit scary.

What tool did you use to cut that?

I used my oscillating tool with a small blade. I drilled a hole in each corner to make it easier to start the cut.

billk2632 wrote: Tue Mar 26, 2024 7:54 pm I used my oscillating tool with a small blade. I drilled a hole in each corner to make it easier to start the cut.

Yep...I use the same.

Hello what part number is it for the Cobalt remote trim tilt you installed please. That is what I want to do on my 2013 276.

I don’t recall a part number. I got my Cobalt dealer to order it from Cobalt, not Volvo. It was a nice kit with the wiring harness and switch. Other mounting the switch it was plug and play. It is exactly what you would get if you ordered it on a new Cobalt.

I found the invoice for my switch:

624116 Remote Trim $205.32

Pretty expensive for some wire, connectors and a switch, but it plugged right in and works and I use it a lot.

I'm doing the exact same thing as you did.

A few questions,
Does the switch work with the battery off or does it need to be left on (I guess my question is if it's hardwired)
How did you know what order for the green, red, and blue?

Thank you, it's my first project in the spring.

drekar wrote: Tue Apr 15, 2025 9:41 pm I'm doing the exact same thing as you did.

A few questions,
Does the switch work with the battery off or does it need to be left on (I guess my question is if it's hardwired)
How did you know what order for the green, red, and blue?

Thank you, it's my first project in the spring.

Switch is not hardwired, battery switch must be on for it to work.
I got a switch kit from Cobalt, everything was already wired and simply plugged into the trim wiring harness at the back of the engine - no wire splicing. Other than cutting the hole to mount the switch it was a 10min job. I looked at a new boat with the factory installed switch and did mine the exact same way. Now, if you plan to wire one in yourself, which you can do, the red wire is power, blue is UP and green is DOWN.