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Looking for some info on recommended engine oil. My dealer installs rotella oil, I have heard that rotella has zinc in it and can destroy cat converters by post igniting in the converter element. I want to go synthetic and looking to use mobil 1 15w50. Recommended by a buddy of mine. Any suggestions I heard sae 30 or even 10w30 is not a good weight to use. Any suggestions. 2014 220 5.0

Do Volvo owners ever buy the Volvo oil? I would use there products while in warranty period exclusively so if their is a problem they don't kill you on oil used

viewtopic.php?f=49&t=269

See if deb still has any

I use Mobil 15/50.

Maybe it's me...
I've used Quaker, Pennzoil, Mobil, Shell, Valvoline, Chevron, ConocoPhillips, Texaco...and on and on and on.
Somehow in all of my years, and against dire warnings of impending catastrophic failures to be, I've never seen an oil related issue..
Just change it regularly, and allow for a warm up before hammering the throttle.

So to answer your question, I agree totally with AJ. Use their products, and if, if there is a problem, you have a place to point your finger, instead of the dealer pointing their finger at you.

ajcampen wrote: Sun Oct 22, 2017 10:04 pm Do Volvo owners ever buy the Volvo oil? I would use there products while in warranty period exclusively so if their is a problem they don't kill you on oil used

Yes 100% of the time. Or Merc oil in a merc. I'm a big believer in using manufactures oils and filters. Just me. Both brands have special additives for our environment. I heard rottella doesn't have zinc anymore. I also use BG oil additive MOA. It's great stuff in all of my 4 stroke engines.

I really have no idea what oil my marina uses, and I couldn’t care less. I’m responsible and contracted in bringing my boat to them for certified factory service. In turn, they take full responsible for the quality of my engine service fluids.
That gives you a fighting chance if there is a warranty issue.

You'll love this BB...
I try to stay loyal to my vehicle dealerships. Ford guy with a nice Ford dealership. I switched to GMC for one truck for a change up and I have to spread the biz around since they all deal with our deli.
First truck service, no grease. Second service, no grease. Third service at a Chevy dealership, no grease...
I had to tell them every time to bring it back in and grease it..
So, at least around here, I trust the flunkies at a quick oil change more than my local GM dealers.. they must hire the quick oil change rejects for their oil service "techs".
I still have reservations about our marina's cleanliness in regards to the boat, but my first Cobalt service with them was excellent.

Tuscany wrote: Mon Oct 23, 2017 5:28 am Maybe it's me...
I've used Quaker, Pennzoil, Mobil, Shell, Valvoline, Chevron, ConocoPhillips, Texaco...and on and on and on.
Somehow in all of my years, and against dire warnings of impending catastrophic failures to be, I've never seen an oil related issue..
Just change it regularly, and allow for a warm up before hammering the throttle.

So to answer your question, I agree totally with AJ. Use their products, and if, if there is a problem, you have a place to point your finger, instead of the dealer pointing their finger at you.

Totally agree Tusc. On any forum in any oil thread you'll get 82 different opinions on what oil to use, but I bet Driller has some good insight on this subject.

For me, it all comes out of the same ground and as long as its a quality refined oil it'll work well. The only difference is the additives. Warm up the engine and keep it clean and any of it will do fine. I've raced motorcycles about all my life, and the manufacturer always claims to have the best "specific" oil. Of course they mark it up 40 or 50%... Then when you need to add or change you have to make a special trip to find the stuff.

For me its about a quality oil that is easy to obtain. Years ago I switched over to Mobil for all my vehicles and Lucas for my bikes. Mainly because 1. Its good. 2. Its easy to find.
I have a 96 Toyota Land Cruiser with over 200,000 miles. Pull the dipstick out and the oil is still clear...

Under a warranty issue I agree.. Use what they say. When the warranty runs out switch to whatever you want.

True enough YT.
Oil marketing as of late insults the intellect of even the average earth worm..
I SMH at the marketing ideas in the past few years. BS “Designer” oils for every specific need. The best BS marketing ploy is now the “one year” oil change, because somehow, that oil lasts longer. . Even re-refined oils are now considered “green” for the enviormentally sensitive. It was considered garbage a few years ago. Now, we are somehow convinced Valvoline alone is doing the environment a favor.

This type of target marketing naturally makes a buyer feel that there are mostly wrong choices that may cause harm.
Any choice will work fine.

Two enemies. Heat and wear.
Heat, use synthetic oils which IMO, is very cheap insurance. As for wear, change it regularly, and not annually.

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I want to go synthetic and looking to use mobil 1 15w50.

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Use manufacturer's brand while in warranty period so as to be blameless if engine warranty claim arises.


Once out of warranty, then....

http://www.cobaltchat.com/viewtopic.php ... lood#p8919

.

Absolutely agree

Anyone going to see if Deb has oil for 6$ a qrt

Funny thing my cobalt dealer itself uses wix filter and the rotella 15 40 oil on every oil change they say. Doubt warranty will be good if dealer does it? I questioned my cobalt dealer about warranty and they said that they use oils that meet minimum required specs of volvo and said they can't void warranty . They said mobil 1 is the best oil to use and exceeds volvo specs.

They are using a diesel oil in a gasoline engine?
Oh brother..

Said they use it in all their oil changes and said never had a problem. I heard it contains zinc and when used with converter engines can post ignite in the converter and ruin it