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Good morning all,

Just got back from a weekend trip with my recently purchased 2006 226 with 496 and bravo 3. I have put around 10-15 hours on it without issues, then towards the end of the weekend I started noticing a delay in shift to forward. Maybe 3 seconds. Shifting into reverse was immediate and normal. I want to run it on the hose to verify, but not sure if that is safe.

I'm thinking shift cable or cone clutch.... Any thoughts?

As a side note, it did get shifted into forward without the engine on, which I realize is not supposed to be good for it. Is there something for me to inspect to make sure it didn't get damaged?

Appreciate any help.

Yes, shift cable adjustment or wear on the FWD side of the cone clutch. If it came on suddenly I would suspect the cable has gotten out of adjustment.

You can shift it with it on muffs. Just make sure the area is clear.

I never have heard that it is bad to shift with the engine not running...dog clutch drives are a different story.

How many hours do you have on the drive? Change gear oil every year?

bruceb58 wrote: Mon Jul 17, 2023 12:36 pm You can shift it with it on muffs. Just make sure the area is clear.

I never have heard that it is bad to shift with the engine not running...dog clutch drives are a different story.

How many hours do you have on the drive? Change gear oil every year?

I have just over 600 hours. I just bought it a couple of months ago so it is pretty hard to tell for sure if the drive oil has been changed every year.

kevincs23 wrote: Mon Jul 17, 2023 2:06 pm

bruceb58 wrote: Mon Jul 17, 2023 12:36 pm You can shift it with it on muffs. Just make sure the area is clear.

I never have heard that it is bad to shift with the engine not running...dog clutch drives are a different story.

How many hours do you have on the drive? Change gear oil every year?

I have just over 600 hours. I just bought it a couple of months ago so it is pretty hard to tell for sure if the drive oil has been changed every year.

With 600 hours, you are likely due for a new cone clutch anyway no matter what maintenance was done previously. Not going to be cheap!

I would first check the lower shift cable adjustment though.

bruceb58 wrote: Mon Jul 17, 2023 2:58 pm

kevincs23 wrote: Mon Jul 17, 2023 2:06 pm

bruceb58 wrote: Mon Jul 17, 2023 12:36 pm You can shift it with it on muffs. Just make sure the area is clear.

I never have heard that it is bad to shift with the engine not running...dog clutch drives are a different story.

How many hours do you have on the drive? Change gear oil every year?

I have just over 600 hours. I just bought it a couple of months ago so it is pretty hard to tell for sure if the drive oil has been changed every year.

With 600 hours, you are likely due for a new cone clutch anyway no matter what maintenance was done previously. Not going to be cheap!

I would first check the lower shift cable adjustment though.

Ok. Is checking the cable adjustment simple?

What should I expect for the cost of a new cone clutch?

Likely around $3K installed.

and a Gimble bearing. Do it all

So I took it to my mechanic. He said my shift cable was pretty far out of adjustment, charged me an hour of labor and said I'm good to go.

I'm wondering if I should still expect to be doing a clutch soon, or if I will really be good to go for a while.

kevincs23 wrote: Wed Jul 26, 2023 10:28 am So I took it to my mechanic. He said my shift cable was pretty far out of adjustment, charged me an hour of labor and said I'm good to go.

I'm wondering if I should still expect to be doing a clutch soon, or if I will really be good to go for a while.

I don't think I would worry about it if the cable adjustment solved the issue. The cone clutch is not considered a maintenance item, most drives they last the life of the drive (of course debatable how long that is). I would also suspect that how the boat is used has something to do with it. A lot of shifting like from skiing and wakeboarding or fishing or an improper idle adjustment causing hard shifts, I would suspect they would wear out quicker.

Sorry - new 20 year boat? Three time around the lake then pull that sucker out and it goes right to a knowledgeable mechanic for $3--4K baseline work (Cables, Gimble, tune-up, fuel rail test, impeller, risers,prop,battery/ACR, bilge switch etc). If not; you'll be posting here again real soon, and things will happen when the boat is full of people. Your job as a owner of a 20 year boat is head-off problem or the boat will be become a PIA to you. Baseline the Maintenance! See Ya

SAB220 wrote: Wed Jul 26, 2023 5:47 pm Sorry - new 20 year boat? Three time around the lake then pull that sucker out and it goes right to a knowledgeable mechanic for $3--4K baseline work (Cables, Gimble, tune-up, fuel rail test, impeller, risers,prop,battery/ACR, bilge switch etc). If not; you'll be posting here again real soon, and things will happen when the boat is full of people. Your job as a owner of a 20 year boat is head-off problem or the boat will be become a PIA to you. Baseline the Maintenance! See Ya

I get that. Just asking for opinions on a specific problem. Thanks