263....replacing interior....anyone done it?

[TechieTechie]

Cobalt Chatters,

Okay, here's a fun one for the team.

I may have an opportunity to buy a 263 at a 'I name it' price. The catch? I think the boat sat uncovered (or under shrink) for so long that the interior became moldly. The yard replaced the headliner and the carpets and did an absolutely awful job at it. (and there is a bit of mold on the wall panels in the corners, so I am pretty sure the cabin was moldy). I walked away, and the yard came back and said, basically, "what price would you buy it at". Cobalts are rare in New England, ugly ones even moreso.

Now, I am not saying I am buying the boat. I am barely even considering it. But, there are 150 hours on the Volvo engine and prop, and the yard has already spent about 1-2k fixing stuff (head, horn, trim tabs, stereo).

So, I am hoping the forum can help me understand what my options are (and I may even call Cobalt on Monday). Has anyone torn apart the interior of their 2nd gen 263 or similar model (to the hull) and replaced all the soft goods? It is even feasible? (and I'm not saying it would be pleasant, but wondering if it's doable and how painful it is on a fairly simple boat like a 263).

Thoughts?

[Ytmsn]

When we toured the factory one of the reps gave me a copy of instructions on how to remove the interior of a 260 series. I just have to figure out where I put it and post it here... Is the vinyl just dirty or is it cracked? If it's not cracked and dried out it can be cleaned.

As for a restoration, several of us here have done it. Its worth it if you do it right, and you'll make money when you sell. If you can get that 263 cheap and have the time to do the project I'd do it.

I bought a 240 in the chips, then put in a new motor and interior, the wet sanded and buffed the hull and added a few extras. It turned out pretty good. Then I sold it and bought my 262.
Here's the link.

viewtopic.php?f=47&t=195

[akorcovelos]

Got pics of the interior? It’s pretty amazing what a professional can do with neglected interior. My detailer sent me some before and after shots when I was shopping around, these are just one example of what he’s done.

369AD5ED-7B2E-4FD1-9331-FDA29D3A88EB.jpeg

AEEB3C67-3440-409C-B0DB-F7383491079E.jpeg

Depending on how bad it is, might have a diamond in the rough there.

[AsLan7]

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Hopefully you can get an amazing deal after a marine survey (especially to identify any hull or engine weaknesses) and bring her back to her showroom glory days Jen.

A word of caution in regard to the ripped vinyl repair. The wrap around seating in the cockpit is virtually impossible to remove. Many of the repairs will need to be completed while on the boat (vs you being able to remove them and taking them to an upholstery shop.). Cobalt does not produce those pieces anymore which also can be a challenge.

With that being said, all it takes is time and money. Looking forward to your before and after pics if you go this route.

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[TechieTechie]

Oddly enough, the cockpit is okay. It's the cabin interior that needs work.

I will, in all likelyhood, pass. But I figured if it's really moldy, if could run it for a few seasons and junk it (or part it out), it might be worth it. IF I can get it for a price along the lines of a Boston to London first class plane ticket or a week's vacation to a Caribbean island

[TechieTechie]

They didn't even bother to color match the carpet!!!!

[TechieTechie]

When we toured the factory one of the reps gave me a copy of instructions on how to remove the interior of a 260 series. I just have to figure out where I put it and post it here...

viewtopic.php?f=47&t=195

If you could find that information, I would be eternally grateful. Or if you could get it from the factory, that would be AWESOME.

Thanks for all the information. Sounds like it's not an impossible task.

[Ytmsn]

We did some spring cleaning moved a bunch if stuff so I've misplaced it but it'll turn up.

As far as those pictures go, you should be fine. A professional auto headliner guy can fix that easy. Carpet is easy. Thise small tears can be repaired by a vinyl guy or Dr Vinyl. Clean everything first by using a Mr Clean Magic Eraser pad along with Starbright Mold and Mildew Cleaner. And it sounds harsh, but I actually use McGuires Degreaser diluted down, and I think A7 uses it too. There are a couple of videos online that shows how that product works with professional detailers, and it is amazing at how clean it gets the vinyl. Again, it sounds harsh and it might strip everything out but that's not the case. After everything is clean you'll want to go back over it with conditioner, like 303 or 3m or Maguires.

As A7 said, getting the surround off isn't really an option. And if you have to replace the snakeskin it can be matched pretty closely with a marine grade vinyl, you just have to look. I've done it. Its usually the snakeskin that starts cracking first.

How is the hull finish? You can have a detail guy wet sand if it's bad, or do a triple buff using compound to bring it back. Everything else can be addressed easy, especially with a motor with those low hours.

I'm a big proponent of buying cheap, use it for a season or two, and thump it in the head. I do it with vehicles, boats and equipment all the time. Keep us posted!

[JTinMO]

That does not look bad. If you are up for it, those look entirely do-able. I’ll say the products Yt mentioned are the correct way to go. And if you are redoing a lot of the carpeting, don’t be afraid of getting aggressive on it. I haven’t had a need to on any boat, but a steamer can take a lot of nasty stuff out of vinyl as well.

I do know there are a lot of upholstery shops as well that specialize in complete interiors. I’m sure they are not cheap, but it’s always an option at the end if your elbow grease doesn’t give the results you are after.

[TechieTechie]

So, I went back and looked at the boat today. I took a crapton of pictures (and went over the whole boat with my trusty Fibernaught moisture meter). The shop was closed, and I could not get the engine lid open by myself, so these are my observations thus far:

1. Deck, foredeck and transom are all dry and solid.

2. 1 spot in the lower portside transom and hull have elevated (50%) readings, but that's where the water tank is so I think it's a false positive.

3. The gunnel/gunwales
-Where the the arch attachment point/screws
-Just aft where windshield attaches to the hull midship)
are running about 50% on the meter. Either false positive due to the backing plates or a decent shot at a bit of gunky coring that will need to get cleaned (assuming the latter for now)

3. 1 bad repair (size of a quarter) midships, starboard side, just above the waterline. Tested dry, but want to make sure it stays that way

4. Original deck carpet had never (or rarely) been moved, backing is disintegrating in place and the deck is stained black, in parts.

5. Big spider crack at the foot of the windshield just above the foredeck stair. Tested dry, I have to assume that's from pulling oneself on/off the deck for the anchor locker. Why this boat doesn't have Formula's foredeck stair approach is baffling. Windlass would need to be installed.

6. Definitely some play (2" in total, guessing) in the drive. Not sure how much is common, but I think I need to budget for a gimbal bearing just in case.

7. There is a spot under the rear bench (I think) that is wet...what looks to be a sump pump box, but it's not the spot located on Cobalt's owners manual. I think it was under the rear bench, based upon the order of the photos, but if someone can help me identify what this is, where it is, and why it may be leaking, that would be great.

8. Based upon the remaining old carpet/wood pieces and lower fabric stains I am pretty sure there was at 1-2 inches of standing water in the cabin. (see pics). I am most worried about the carpet below the captains/passengers chair and getting the mold out there. It will be hard to get moldicide (Fiberlock's shockwave) back there without risk of ruining wiring. But I just had a great idea, a garden sprayer should work!).

9. Starboard Interior hull wall near portlights are wet, like 90% wet. Now, the outside reads okay and there is a crapton of staining on the fabric, so that fabric has got to go. Then the question is whether the portholes are gunky or the staining and wet fabric is just from so much built up condensation in the cabin. The very crappily done headliner and carpet are already pulling at the corners (like 6-8 inches pulling) so I don't think it will be that hard for them to at least get a headstart on removing. But the entire, and I mean all, cabin fabrics would need pulled out, the hull retested and Shock-i-fied and redone. I am going to call Cobalt tomorrow to see if there is any softgoods piece in the cabin that can't be pulled out (it's the paisley on the walls I am worried about).

10. After wall of the chain locker is super wet (90+), but rope is soaking wet, so I have to assume that's a false positive.

11. The portable head 'space' reeked of gasoline, but it's my understanding that if these boats sit under the mooring cover for long periods, that is not terribly uncommon.

Thoughts, Oh Wise Ones?

[TechieTechie]

Here are a few more pics of the waterlogged/formerly moldy/just doesn't look right area under the captains/passenger's seat. I forgot to mention, the deck table and support are in the cabin, and the 3 bars for the Vberth were safely stored in the cedar cabinet.

But the question persists, why is the starboard side inside of the hull wetter than the port side. This is the thing that worries me the most. Moisture readings on the glass behind the carpet and badly done headliner were very good. The readings on the cabin vberth glass were 50%...but I wonder if that is a false positive due the cushions being damp (or the hull is compromised from the porthole leakage).

Has anyone heard of a Cobalt hull of the all glass vintage (1995+) actually being compromised?

[AsLan7]

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Tx2, as I emailed you, this boat has had a serious history of something gone terribly wrong ....especially for the low hour count.

If you want a project boat, this is it. Depends on what you desire. I'm more of a "you get what you pay for philosophy". I don't mind paying a premium for pristine & clean history.

This boat is more on the other end of the spectrum as a project boat which you could bring back to life at a rock bottom price. I personally wouldn't touch it with a 10' pole. For the right person though, they may run toward it....and hey even part it out possibly to make a profit (JRCramer).

The leaking box you asked about is the cockpit heater box which takes heated engine water and uses it to exchange heat from the water to the surrounding air --which is then blown with the blower fan to your cockpit & cabin areas.

As I mentioned in the other thread, I think you will be happier with the 1st gen 263 which were set up more for overnight stays than the 2nd gen (2000-2007) 263's which were set up more for water-sports and day cruising.

Whatever you decide, it will be cool to see this tired old 263 brought back to life if purchased by the right buyer.

(....oh, and if you do buy it, I know some folks who would be happy to buy those filler cushions off of ya'. )

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[akorcovelos]

I think it’s worth a formal survey. If the mechanicals check out the interior can be cleaned or replaced by a good upholstery shop. I highly doubt Cobalt will have anything for you, but any good shop can handle that job. I’ve never heard of hulls being compromised after they went to full glass construction. The transom on that model is still glassed marine plywood I believe, so that’s all I’d worry about. Portholes are prone to leak, but if you’re that deep into a project resealing them isn’t a big deal. If you’re interested in tacking this, just don’t pay more than you can get back parting it out.

[TechieTechie]

Thanks AsLan7. I know something has gone wrong. The question is whether or not there is enough value in the boat to buy it as is. I honestly don't love the first generation 263 either. I like it. but the aft cabin is almost useless due to the door, and the head almost useable, too, due to the curvature of the door. And I don't LOVE the layout of the 293 either, since it doesn't have an aft cabin. But this might be a decent runner until I find the right boat (or I fix it up and run the snot out of it).

Thanks akorcovelos. Actually Ron from Cobalt told me that the post 1995 boats had a composite core transom so, basically except for, perhaps, the cabin bulkheads, the boat has no wood in the structure.

I wonder how much $$$ one might actually obtain via a part out? The deck is actually in pretty decent shape.

[Big Block Power]

If it has a tower then that's a few bucks. And which tower. The engine and drive are a few bucks and the filler cushions. I say 10k. I could be wrong but the bits will correct me they always do. Then the hassle of parting it out and you have to be able to remove the engine and drive and tower to ship it. Priceless