Stereo Upgrade

[CD262]

Hey everybody, have yet another audio question for you guys. I swapped out the factory Sony stereo and remotes in my 2011 262 for a Rockford Fosgate Punch PMX-5 Head Unit and the corresponding remotes. Since I have extra time at home, LOL, I've decided to install these myself. I have everything installed and the 10 pin wiring run, and now need to wire the head unit. Only issue is the Sony unit and the RF units wiring are quite a bit different, I am sure this is due to the fact that the old head unit is 9 years old... Anyone have any good sources to direct me to that might help me in wiring this thing? Please and Thank you!

[Big Block Power]

Did you not get any manuals? All manuals are online.

[AsLan7]

Hey everybody, have yet another audio question for you guys. I swapped out the factory Sony stereo and remotes in my 2011 262 for a Rockford Fosgate Punch PMX-5 Head Unit and the corresponding remotes. Since I have extra time at home, LOL, I've decided to install these myself. I have everything installed and the 10 pin wiring run, and now need to wire the head unit. Only issue is the Sony unit and the RF units wiring are quite a bit different, I am sure this is due to the fact that the old head unit is 9 years old... Anyone have any good sources to direct me to that might help me in wiring this thing? Please and Thank you!

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We did exactly what you did on our 2005 263 in 2018 for our Phase 1 upgrade. Installer completely rewired the boat to make it work with RF head unit and RF remotes.

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[koconnell]

I just replaced my factory Sony head unit with a new fusion head unit. The new unit should identify the power, ground, and remote signal. Make connections to the factory harness - this will get you powered up.

Are you using an amp or powering speakers from head unit? If direct to speakers, the new harness should identify the speaker outputs & locations that you can connect to factory speaker wires.

The factory antenna was unusable (had to replace with compatible antenna). Also did not reuse the existing XM radio module or USB connections.

You may have some unused wires depending on application - auto dimming, amp remote turn on (if not running amp), etc.

[Big Block Power]

Hope this helps too.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/11408 ... e=4#manual

[CD262]

Appreciate the feedback guys, got everything wired up along with the amps and all sounds great (enlisted a little help since it was out of my wheelhouse). It sounds good in the driveway, but I'll need to see how it sounds on the water, as that is the only real way to test out the system. Am I Right!?

[CD262]

Hey everybody, have yet another audio question for you guys. I swapped out the factory Sony stereo and remotes in my 2011 262 for a Rockford Fosgate Punch PMX-5 Head Unit and the corresponding remotes. Since I have extra time at home, LOL, I've decided to install these myself. I have everything installed and the 10 pin wiring run, and now need to wire the head unit. Only issue is the Sony unit and the RF units wiring are quite a bit different, I am sure this is due to the fact that the old head unit is 9 years old... Anyone have any good sources to direct me to that might help me in wiring this thing? Please and Thank you!

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We did exactly what you did on our 263 in 2018 for our Phase 1 upgrade. Installer completely rewired the boat to make it work with RF head unit and RF remotes.

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How do you like it? I really like the look of the remotes at the helm and the rear. Only thing I wish I could do (and I guess I could if I was really feeling adventurous) is to have the remote sunk into the dash panel like the newer model cobalts do. I may look into that, but for now it is mounted above. Getting the head unit in the glove box was a little trickier than I anticipated. My model has the head unit all the way over to the left of the glove box above the head, and the RF faceplate was considerably larger. I had to remove the whole top of the head door and glove box just to get it in, and the rear of the unit just touches the back side of the door. Talk about close!

[AsLan7]

Hey everybody, have yet another audio question for you guys. I swapped out the factory Sony stereo and remotes in my 2011 262 for a Rockford Fosgate Punch PMX-5 Head Unit and the corresponding remotes. Since I have extra time at home, LOL, I've decided to install these myself. I have everything installed and the 10 pin wiring run, and now need to wire the head unit. Only issue is the Sony unit and the RF units wiring are quite a bit different, I am sure this is due to the fact that the old head unit is 9 years old... Anyone have any good sources to direct me to that might help me in wiring this thing? Please and Thank you!

.

We did exactly what you did on our 263 in 2018 for our Phase 1 upgrade. Installer completely rewired the boat to make it work with RF head unit and RF remotes.

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How do you like it? I really like the look of the remotes at the helm and the rear. Only thing I wish I could do (and I guess I could if I was really feeling adventurous) is to have the remote sunk into the dash panel like the newer model cobalts do. I may look into that, but for now it is mounted above. Getting the head unit in the glove box was a little trickier than I anticipated. My model has the head unit all the way over to the left of the glove box above the head, and the RF faceplate was considerably larger. I had to remove the whole top of the head door and glove box just to get it in, and the rear of the unit just touches the back side of the door. Talk about close!

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To answer your question CD262 we LOCE it. Music is a HUGE part of our boating. Bluetooth connection is quick during starts and stops (water sports) and the music sounds great. Like you, we really enjoy the look too.

Knowing your 262 glove box is similar in size after owning a 2002 262 ourselves, yes that would be a tight squeeze for the RF PMX-5 head unit . Nice job getting it in there!

We have our head unit mounted in the cuddy. Plenty of room and love the look and functionality.
We then went with two RF remotes...one at the helm and the other on the transom. It’s a great setup for us. Not too intrusive with fantastic versatility.

The one challenge which arose during our install was the extra depth size of the RF transom remote (really the volume knob) over the stock Sony transom remote. We actually had to fabricate a new port side piece on the transom to eliminate the hole of the old Sony remote. We then relocated the RF transom unit to the rear fascia of the engine platform. The engine platform would have crushed the extra size (volume knob sticking out) of the RF remote when the platform was FULLY raised manually into the maintenance position which is beyond the electric stop. Most folks (including our installer) forget about or didn't know about this feature on these model boats.

We also added a dedicated sub amp and 10” RF subwoofer.

That was Phase one.

We are currently working on Phase two.....
Wet Sounds tower speakers bridged with WS dedicated amp along with JL A cabin and cockpit speaker upgrades with a dedicated JL A 8 channel Amp.

Phase three will be a TV in the Cuddy with Switch inputs.

Enjoy your music my friend!



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[CD262]

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We did exactly what you did on our 263 in 2018. Installer completely rewired the boat to make it work with RF head unit and RF remotes.

.

How do you like it? I really like the look of the remotes at the helm and the rear. Only thing I wish I could do (and I guess I could if I was really feeling adventurous) is to have the remote sunk into the dash panel like the newer model cobalts do. I may look into that, but for now it is mounted above. Getting the head unit in the glove box was a little trickier than I anticipated. My model has the head unit all the way over to the left of the glove box above the head, and the RF faceplate was considerably larger. I had to remove the whole top of the head door and glove box just to get it in, and the rear of the unit just touches the back side of the door. Talk about close!

.

To answer your question CD262 we LOCE it. Music is a HUGE part of our boating. Bluetooth connection is quick during starts and stops (water sports) and the music sounds great. Like you, we really enjoy the look too.

Knowing your 262 glove box is similar in size after owning a 2002 262 ourselves, yes that would be a tight squeeze for the RF PMX-5 head unit . Nice job getting it in there!

We have our head unit mounted in the cuddy. Plenty of room and love the look and functionality.
We then went with two RF remotes...one at the helm and the other on the transom. It’s a great setup for us. Not too intrusive with fantastic versatility.

The one challenge which arose during our install was the extra depth size of the RF transom remote (really the volume knob) over the stock Sony transom remote. We actually had to fabricate a new port side piece on the transom to eliminate the hole of the old Sony remote. We then relocated the RF transom unit to the rear fascia of the engine platform. The engine platform would have crushed the extra size (volume knob sticking out) of the RF remote when the platform was FULLY raised manually into the maintenance position which is beyond the electric stop. Most folks (including our installer) forget about or didn't know about this feature on these model boats.

We also added a dedicated sub amp and 10” RF subwoofer.

That was phase one.

We are currently working on Phase two.....
Wet Sounds tower speakers bridged with WS dedicated amp along with JL A cabin and cockpit speaker upgrades with a dedicated JL A 8 channel Amp.

Phase three will be a TV in the Cuddy with Switch inputs.

Enjoy your music my friend!



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I hear you on the clearance for the back remote, I didn't give it much thought, installed it with the engine hatch up (as I needed to be in there to get to the wiring) lowered the hatch and then realized it sat out further than the old Sony remote and thought: "That's got to be pretty close for clearance..." Uh, yeah. About a half an inch! Thank God it fit, had I lowered that hatch and broke off the knob before even getting power to it I would have died!

We've got a 10" enclosed sub mounted currently from the previous owner, but I really think I am going to swap it out for an infinite baffle model as it saves so much space. All in all though, the system sounded great on the water yesterday. No complaints!

[AsLan7]

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YAY.
We completed Phase 2 of our stereo upgrade over the weekend.
Ordered equipment off of Creative Audio.
James Taylor is the man there. Really knows his stuff. Others on the site have also gone thru him. Thank you JT!

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Phase 2 objectives:

Inside Boat audio:
1. Replaced Sony Xplod speakers with JL Audio M6 RGB speakers . (7.7” & 6.5”)
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2. Installed an 8 channel JL Audio M800/8v2 amplifier. This powers six speakers and the last two channels power the sub in a mono bridged configuration.
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3. Installed Jl Audio LED controller with WiFi for speakers
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4. Installed a separate volume knob for cuddy cabin speakers
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5. Have the entire system on it's own dedicated switch isolated from ignition.
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[AsLan7]

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Outside boat audio:


5. Addition of Wet Sounds 10” Rev tower speakers with swivel clamps.

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6. Addition of Wet Sounds Sinister SDX 4 channel amp for mono-bridged tower power @ 685 WATTS each!

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Smiles all around

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Overall we are very pleased. A big shout out to Kenny at Enormis Audio in Harborcreek for his extensive knowledge and work on this system. Having dual Zone (inside & outside boat audio) control using the RF head unit and remotes allows for great versatility. The ability to synchronize our volume and/or sources as the default option or adjust them independently is very convenient. Technically it's really a three zone system as the dedicated subwoofer volume buttons on the Head and Remote units control the sub instantly.

The only disappointment is our Bluetooth delay during start up. It's not totally eliminated. It drops out for about 5-8 seconds, again only during start up--even on the dedicated switch. First world problem though. The good news is the switching engine off Bluetooth dropout/delay was totally eliminated.

We also had to modify the stainless cup holder at the helm by shortening it to accommodate the 7.7" JL speaker. Won't really affect functionality as we are only shaving off 3/4" from the bottom of the cup holder and then re-fabricating it. In the meantime I have a towel stuffed in the hole so as not to lose my iPhone in it.
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We will also be replacing the two heater craft vents in the pics above since they look dated next to the speakers. They are currently being shipped.
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Now we have to get out and test those Wet Sounds tower cannons while tubing and wake-boarding. Memorial Day water was a little chilly though (62 ) so that will be a future post.
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[Big Block Power]

Looking great!! Where is the brass washer on that volume control

[AsLan7]

Looking great!! Where is the brass washer on that volume control

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Maybe I’ll hang a subway napkin from it too.

[Big Block Power]

Looking great!! Where is the brass washer on that volume control

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Maybe I’ll hang a subway napkin from it too.

Eat fresh!!

[AsLan7]

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We also had to modify the stainless cup holder at the helm by shortening it to accommodate the 7.7" JL speaker. Won't really affect functionality as we are only shaving off 3/4" from the bottom of the cup holder and then re-fabricating it. In the meantime I have a towel stuffed in the hole so as not to lose my iPhone in it.
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917D807D-5784-425D-9BAE-AE7C6524027E.jpeg
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We will also be replacing the two heater craft vents in the pics above since they look dated next to the speakers. They are currently being shipped.
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1.jpg
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Now we have to get out and test those Wet Sounds tower cannons while tubing and wake-boarding. Memorial Day water was a little chilly though (62 ) so that will be a future post.
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AC1235CF-6A17-4F38-81E9-56CAA933767E.jpeg

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Installed our new heater craft vents to update the look.
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Also got the modified stainless cup holder back. (shortened slightly so it doesn’t hit the speaker now). Yay.

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