1985 CS23

[PAboater08]

So I grew boating with my dad on his 1985 CS23, which he has given me. It has seen better days, but isn't in terrible shape. It could use new upholstery, teak wood stained, and the colors of the paint/gel coat definitely need some TLC. Over the last 2 years I've replaced exhaust manifolds, bellows, distributor cap, coil pack, and plugs. Got it running really good last summer just in time to winterize it for storage. I know over the winter months would have been more convenient to work on appearance things, but of course I didn't get them done. Anyone have suggestions on staining teak wood again? Replacing the teak ski deck? What about brightening up the paint/gel coat, the tan/brown/dark brown are really faded. I know I also have to replaced the fuel level sensor at some point as the gauge doesn't work. I'd like to also replace/upgrade the sound system on it, as that is absolutely atrocious. It's no prize, but I have 30 years worth of memories on that boat and just looking to spruce things up a bit.

Thanks in advance!

-Blair

[AsLan7]

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Hey Blair..welcome to the CobaltChat forum. So glad you found us!

Do you boat in PA? We are on the North East side.

Great memories on her I'm sure. 3M products work great for cleaning up the gel coat. Just search the site. Make sure you use a wool pad. It will cut thru the oxidation better than any foam pad and worth the extra cost.

What's your budget for the sound system? What do you have in the boat now?

Would you be able to post any pics?

Again, welcome aboard mate!

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[Big Block Power]

Congrats.. Sounds like you should start work a wet sand then 3 step buffing process. If it's past the point of no return is paint time. Hopefully it's not that bad. Teak sand it down and get teak oil. There's a few threads on here on some of what the guys have done to there teak. Good reads.

[cmattj]

CF13B749-D577-425A-95FE-01D04451DD62.png

I use the starbrite teak oil. The kit is pretty slick as it helps prep it as long as you have time to let it dry.
Get a kit that removes old oil then brightens. Then you can determine how much sanding to get the grey out if any remain.
Video of how easy. Couple of minutes and bam!

[PAboater08]

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Hey Blair..welcome to the CobaltChat forum. So glad you found us!

Do you boat in PA? We are on the North East side.

Great memories on her I'm sure. 3M products work great for cleaning up the gel coat. Just search the site. Make sure you use a wool pad. It will cut thru the oxidation better than any foam pad and worth the extra cost.

What's your budget for the sound system? What do you have in the boat now?

Would you be able to post any pics?

Again, welcome aboard mate!

.

Thanks for the welcoming!!!

Yea I boat all over really, but live outside of Reading, PA.

I will definitely search the site for the 3M products and such! Thanks for the info!!!

Budget for sound system....wellllll boating isn't my only expensive hobby lol. Haven't really set a budget yet. Everything audio wise in the boat is stock, speakers are shot. Don't need anything too fancy, but was thinking of trying to add more speakers and subs.

Yup!!! As soon as I can. (you should see the mess I had replacing parts on the motor guess that's what we get from going in saltwater as well)

-Blair

[PAboater08]

Congrats.. Sounds like you should start work a wet sand then 3 step buffing process. If it's past the point of no return is paint time. Hopefully it's not that bad. Teak sand it down and get teak oil. There's a few threads on here on some of what the guys have done to there teak. Good reads.

It's pretty faded. I'll try searching for wet sanding and 3 step buffing process on the forum here. This may be a very dumb question, but I'm assuming not everyone who paints vehicles paints boats?

[PAboater08]

CF13B749-D577-425A-95FE-01D04451DD62.png

I use the starbrite teak oil. The kit is pretty slick as it helps prep it as long as you have time to let it dry.
Get a kit that removes old oil then brightens. Then you can determine how much sanding to get the grey out if any remain.
Video of how easy. Couple of minutes and bam!

Awesome!!! Thanks!! I believe I'm going to just replace the teak wood on the ski deck at this point.

[PAboater08]

A306842D-6CBF-4E4A-9FDC-5F7E162B883C.jpeg

1B98DDCD-6D9E-48EB-A71B-6CC498450F4E.jpeg

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Please don’t mind the mess, I promise it’s not that messy anymore lol. These were taken last year.

-Blair

[Big Block Power]

Congrats.. Sounds like you should start work a wet sand then 3 step buffing process. If it's past the point of no return is paint time. Hopefully it's not that bad. Teak sand it down and get teak oil. There's a few threads on here on some of what the guys have done to there teak. Good reads.

It's pretty faded. I'll try searching for wet sanding and 3 step buffing process on the forum here. This may be a very dumb question, but I'm assuming not everyone who paints vehicles paints boats?

No you need a good fiberglass /gel coat body shop. We are lucky here we have 1. Myself. I would start with a 1000 and see how it does but if it doesn't touch it go to 800 or 600. If it works then go to 1500 or 2000. Then buff. Use wet dry black sand paper. Then when buffing like A7 said start with a wool pad with 3m rubbing compound and work your way up from there.
After looking at your pictures I think that will sand out and buff out. Also they are not cheap but on ebay there are some side decals/emblems you need.

[PAboater08]

Congrats.. Sounds like you should start work a wet sand then 3 step buffing process. If it's past the point of no return is paint time. Hopefully it's not that bad. Teak sand it down and get teak oil. There's a few threads on here on some of what the guys have done to there teak. Good reads.

It's pretty faded. I'll try searching for wet sanding and 3 step buffing process on the forum here. This may be a very dumb question, but I'm assuming not everyone who paints vehicles paints boats?

No you need a good fiberglass /gel coat body shop. We are lucky here we have 1. Myself. I would start with a 1000 and see how it does but if it doesn't touch it go to 800 or 600. If it works then go to 1500 or 2000. Then buff. Use wet dry black sand paper. Then when buffing like A7 said start with a wool pad with 3m rubbing compound and work your way up from there.
After looking at your pictures I think that will sand out and buff out. Also they are not cheap but on ebay there are some side decals/emblems you need.

So start in an area with 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper (dry sand it though?) and if it works go up to 1500 or 2000. Then buff with a wool pad and 3m rubbing compound? And when you say work your way up.....? 1000 grit sand, then buff? Then 1500, then buff? or 1000, 1500, then 2000 then buff?

-Blair

[SAB220]

Sorry I wouldn't put a dime into that 35+ year old boat without a compression test and a evaluation of the motor, controls and the outdrive by a professional marine mechanic, including trailer.

[PAboater08]

Sorry I wouldn't put a dime into that 35+ year old boat without a compression test and a evaluation of the motor, controls and the outdrive by a professional marine mechanic, including trailer.

Boat runs perfectly fine, it's been on the water for the last 35 years. The trailer has been inspected and registered every year as well. Understand what you're saying, but it isn't like this boat has been "around the block", my dad bought it new and he has maintained it since he bought it. With the exception of having to replace plugs, wires, distributor cap, and coil pack last year we've never had an issue with running this boat.

-Blair

[akorcovelos]

So cool, love the story behind it.

It will definitely be a labor of love. Keep the pics coming!

[Big Block Power]

Sorry I wouldn't put a dime into that 35+ year old boat without a compression test and a evaluation of the motor, controls and the outdrive by a professional marine mechanic, including trailer.

I think you thought he was buying this off the street from someone. Knowing the history is half the battle.
Can't wait to see her all shined up again.