2005 Trail Rite Surge Brakes

[MarkB05-200]

Happy Friday everyone!
When towing my 200 I have noticed it seemed heavy to stop, even for my 1 ton dually. I was taking off one of the tires to put new tires on and noticed the pads were fairly worn on the starboard side. Upon further inspection, the caliper wasn't even on correctly and the pads aren't even making contact with the rotor.

Ok, so now I have a couple questions to all the boat trailer gurus.

1. Where should I go to find brake pads for my 2005 Trail Rite?
2. What type of fluid do surge brakes require?

As always, thanks for the input!

[thunder550]

Happy Friday everyone!
When towing my 200 I have noticed it seemed heavy to stop, even for my 1 ton dually. I was taking off one of the tires to put new tires on and noticed the pads were fairly worn on the starboard side. Upon further inspection, the caliper wasn't even on correctly and the pads aren't even making contact with the rotor.

Ok, so now I have a couple questions to all the boat trailer gurus.

1. Where should I go to find brake pads for my 2005 Trail Rite?
2. What type of fluid do surge brakes require?

As always, thanks for the input!

Take your existing pads in to the auto parts store of your choice, they should be able to match them up. I believe most trailer brakes use a generic pad shape that's widely available.

For fluid, any DOT3 or DOT4 fluid should work fine. They are compatible with each other, so no worries about mixing.

I'm curious how the caliper was mounted so that the pads weren't even contacting the rotor...got any pics? That's crazy.

[MarkB05-200]

I can definitely take a pic of it. There was a "retaining clip/wire" that holds the caliper to the frame of the brakes, but the clip was installed wrong. I also believe it may be out of fluid, because the cylinder wasn't pushed out causing the pads to also not push against the rotor.

[Big Block Power]

Sounds like the caliper pins could be stuck too. Look on your frame sometimes it says what vehicle make the calipers are from to get pads. Lots of neon pads. Or check the trailer website or call them.

[thunder550]

I can definitely take a pic of it. There was a "retaining clip/wire" that holds the caliper to the frame of the brakes, but the clip was installed wrong. I also believe it may be out of fluid, because the cylinder wasn't pushed out causing the pads to also not push against the rotor.

I don't think you'd be short on fluid unless there was a leak, but who knows. Did you buy the trailer used?

[MarkB05-200]

I can definitely take a pic of it. There was a "retaining clip/wire" that holds the caliper to the frame of the brakes, but the clip was installed wrong. I also believe it may be out of fluid, because the cylinder wasn't pushed out causing the pads to also not push against the rotor.

I don't think you'd be short on fluid unless there was a leak, but who knows. Did you buy the trailer used?

The trailer came with the the boat. It definitely isn't the original trailer. I was told the trailer came out of Canada. Here are a couple images of how the caliper mounts. You can tell the pad isn't touching at all because it is rust colored. If it was touching, it would be clean from the friction.

[Big Block Power]

I guess I would get some fluid in it and pump the actuator and see if you see a leak. Then bleed then if you don't. The calipers could be seized too hard to day without touching them.

[thunder550]

Are both sides the same? Could be that there was a leak that was never repaired, or something went wrong with the brakes and the owner disabled them by draining the fluid. If the system was drained or leaked down I'd be surprised if you could bring it back....although it doesn't hurt to try to refill and bleed, worst case is you are out the cost of brake fluid.

Worst case is you will need to replace the brake system. If you're handy you can DIY and save a bunch of $$.

[Big Block Power]

Are both sides the same? Could be that there was a leak that was never repaired, or something went wrong with the brakes and the owner disabled them by draining the fluid. If the system was drained or leaked down I'd be surprised if you could bring it back....although it doesn't hurt to try to refill and bleed, worst case is you are out the cost of brake fluid.

Worst case is you will need to replace the brake system. If you're handy you can DIY and save a bunch of $$.

T5billion is it cheaper and better to just rebuild this trailer?

[MarkB05-200]

To answer both your replies. Yes both sides are the same. In my original post I mentioned the clip was installed incorrectly, if you look at this image, the green lines are where the clip was located. The starboard (pic) was the messed up side while the port side was installed correctly. The caliper and brake pads were not frozen because I could move them around. The port side brake rotor is not as rust as the starboard side which leaves me to believe it hasn't been out of commission as long. But from my understanding of surge brakes (like most brake systems), if there was a leak bad enough to cause one side not to work, the other side would suffer as well correct?! The pads on the rusty side really aren't that worn down either.

I think of myself as fairly handy, I will definitely try the DOT4, then see if the caliper compresses. If so, then I will monitor the fluid level for leaks.

[MarkB05-200]

To answer both your replies. Yes both sides are the same. In my original post I mentioned the clip was installed incorrectly, if you look at this image, the green lines are where the clip was located. The starboard (pic) was the messed up side while the port side was installed correctly. The caliper and brake pads were not frozen because I could move them around. The port side brake rotor is not as rust as the starboard side which leaves me to believe it hasn't been out of commission as long. But from my understanding of surge brakes (like most brake systems), if there was a leak bad enough to cause one side not to work, the other side would suffer as well correct?! The pads on the rusty side really aren't that worn down either.

I think of myself as fairly handy, I will definitely try the DOT4, then see if the caliper compresses. If so, then I will monitor the fluid level for leaks.

Sorry, I forgot to add the pic with the green lines.

[thunder550]

T5billion is it cheaper and better to just rebuild this trailer?

Lol, I see what you did there

Depends on what it needs. If he can put new brakes on and call it good, then I think yes. If it needs brakes, fenders, bunks, springs, lights, wiring, wheels, tires, a spare tire mount, and a new jack, then probably not.....speaking from experience....

[MarkB05-200]

So right now, as is, the trailer needs brakes, fenders repainted, and fender bunk carpet replaced. All the lighting works, it has a spare mount with matching rims, stow away tongue.

I can literally do all the work myself, just a matter of having the time to get it done.

[Big Block Power]

Not saying these are the brakes as Saab has some like that too.

[MarkB05-200]

Awesome. Ill definitely take one off and see if it matches up with those years/models.