Have to agree on this one...you are pushing the limits pretty hard.Storktaylor wrote: Tue Nov 10, 2020 5:22 pm The issue is that your boat on your trailer will max out (weight) before your cube out (space). Being a helicopter pilot I am kind fanatical about weight and CG. When you are loading up the family and heading to the lake, all that extra space starts looking attractive for coolers, bikes, water toys and other things which can add up quick. All that stuff, a full tank of ethanol free gas (beacuse it’s cheaper off the lake), a spare tire and other bits and bobs and next thing you know you’re over 6K.
The issue isn’t making it go, it’s controlling it and more importantly stopping it under control. If you are dragging your boat through the neighborhood to the local ramp, probably a low risk evolution. If you’re like me and heading down I-95, the risk increases significantly and that is where building in margin becomes important. I have a full-sized Suburban and have a 2001 226 which I tow on the freeway about 3.5 hours to lake Gaston. I am happy with that combo and confident that I can keep it in the box no matter what the knuckleheads up here do. There is probably margin there to toss a few things in the boat, but I don’t push it.
The basic math comes down to this: you are looking to tow a trailer which weighs as much if not more than your car. If you need to stop in a hurry, that’s a lot of energy decelerating at a rate slower than your car. Remember the velocity is squared and so even a little difference in relative speed and you and your trailer are swapping ends. This ends poorly 100% of the time.
Now, IF (big if here) you can stop the trailer in a shorter distance than your car, you are good to go, enter: trailer brakes. Most boat trailers have drum surge brakes. These are something, but not like the brakes on your car. The problem with surge brakes is that by the time they engage in an emergency stop the trailer has already ahead of the car from an energy perspective. Balancing that equation takes time and if you are maneuvering it gets even more sporty (see: swapping ends above).
This is not unsolvable, but If you do go down the road of 5K boat behind 5K car, then I would pony up for a sophisticated brake controller and vehicle commanded trailer Disc brakes. There will be a maintenance tail, but when you need to stop in a hurry you will be very happy you made the investment.
Maybe I’m just a natural pessimist who feels like if disaster isn’t happening right now, than it’s not far away. I’ve had too many close calls in my line of work to tempt fate on the weekends.
When Hope and math collide, Math always wins
3800 dry weight of the boat
30 gallons of fuel (average) 180lbs
trailer at 1100 (average)
Coolers, toys, accessories---250
That's 5300 right there and my numbers are probably conservative. Now we haven't even talked about payload capacity of the vehicle as it relates to the total of tongue weight plus passengers & gear.
To me, the engine is the last concern...power is a nice to have, but stopping is a must. Heck in WW2, the army used a 40hp jeep to move 7,000 rail cars in rail yards. It always makes me shake my head when everyone goes to the power card. When I tow, I want in this order, Brakes, Brakes, suspension, Brakes, Suspension, Engine, and Brakes
Can you tow it, yes, it will definitely push the vehicle limits for sure. The Toyota tundra can supposedly tow the space shuttle...doesn't mean it's a good idea. Also as stated, if you go this route, pony up for the best brakes you can...and maybe some suspension help....
