Trailer bunk slides...Thoughts

[NE Zack]

Looking for your thoughts on trailer bunk slides here is a linc.

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/boat-tr ... -10-piece/?

With the windless on my R7 I have to power load the boat quite a ways and I was thinking adding these continuously on the bunk would help.

Thoughts anyone?

[Big Block Power]

I'm thinking of trying this.
I never went with what your looking at because I heard it's very slippery and you want the boat to stay on the bunks. Because you don't want that oh shhhh moment when you stop and the boat doesn't.

[thunder550]

If the boat is hard to get on/off, the trailer needs to be deeper. IMO.

[Tuscany]

If the boat is hard to get on/off, the trailer needs to be deeper. IMO.

This^^
Personally, I wouldn't touch those slippery bunks with a 10' pole.. lots of potential issues, and all of them dangerous.
IMO, Just give yourself more time and experience with your current bunks.
When we first got our new boat and trailer, I'll be honest, it was tough. I assumed after loading/loading for almost 15 years, it would be just as easy .. We were so used to easily loading or old boat/trailer combo, and the new one was so different.

Now, after a dozen runs, it's now as as easy as the old one. First, the R series sits deep and seems very heavy in the bow. You have to keep it floating almost 6’ to the winch. .
Our change was to go extra deep. Between going more deep, and letting the trailer side guides do their job, theres very little powering on. Just get to moving forward very gently onto the bunks until the center bunk catches the keel to straighten out, a tad amount of power to get closer to the winch, and crank it on. If it’s deep enough, it cranks on easily. Then just drive out very slowly to allow the boat to settle.

[NE Zack]

My problem is the windless catches the bow stop (yes the trailer is designed for the windless). If I go deep enough to clear the bow stop the rear bumper of my truck will be in the water. This is the same trailer that took out my fwd drive as well (heritage)

[cmattj]

My problem is the windless catches the bow stop (yes the trailer is designed for the windless). If I go deep enough to clear the bow stop the rear bumper of my truck will be in the water. This is the same trailer that took out my fwd drive as well (heritage)

Can we see a pic of the bow stop? Perhaps like most trailers and boats the “ fine tuning” for the height wasn’t accounted for and it’s easy to lower, then move toward the boat.

I’m sure we’ll come up with a plan. Then plan b is the bunk strips. We don’t want you driving the fwd drive on without guide poles.

[Tuscany]

First, you should have a “V” Block as a bow stop with a windlass. I didn’t order a windlass, but I sure ordered a V block for a bow stop. It just makes the target closer and easier to hit. It hits the block about a foot+ before the final position.
If you don’t have enough length to get the trailer in the water, then you don’t have the right trailer for your boat. Dealers buy a trailer stack from companies like Heritage and then make the boat fit the trailer, instead of the other way around.
If you can’t change it out, I would consider adding to the tongue/draw bar. You need to have around 7’ from coupler to the tip of the bow.
That will get your boat in the water while your tow vehicle is still on the ramp.

My particular trailer for my R7 is 31’ long, designed for the boat.

[cmattj]

First, you should have a “V” Block as a bow stop with a windlass. I didn’t order a windlass, but I sure ordered a V block for a bow stop. It just makes the target easier. It hits the block about a foot before the final position.
If you don’t have enough length to get the trailer in the water, then you don’t have the right trailer for your boat.

My particular trailer for my R7 is 31’ long, designed for the boat.

What T is referring to.

[Scubadeep1]

I started using a spray called Liquid Rollers, and it works slick. But I only did it on the two longer bunks and only the last 4 feet or so, this way when loading all the other bunks are under water and not touching the hull anyway, but when loading the boat slides right up and I don't have to worry about the oh s$%t moment as the rest of the trailer is not coated and will not move going down a ramp.

[sailor55330]

I looked into bunk slicks for my last boat. If you read up on them, many say they aren't recommended for fiberglass hulls as they will gouge and scratch. I have heard great things about the liquid rollers. I also found that spraying the bunks with dry silicone after launching and letting it dry made a pretty significant improvement. I had to re-apply once or twice a year but it's a cheap investement. Be careful you don't end up damaging the bottom.

[NE Zack]

Here is a pic of the stop block

[cmattj]

Here is a pic of the stop block

Similar to mine with 2 sections. That’s the setup!

You can lower your stop. And move the mount forward ( the pic shows you may be out of room?) but it won’t take much .

Every launch ramp degree is different. I personally go deep. (Rear tires to waters edge) then walk it on and can barley feel bunks centering boat as I wench 6 inches)

May have to try adjustment first. But with fwd drive your going to walk it on with no guide poles.

[Tuscany]

Z, do you have pic of your trailer with the boat loaded? Preferably from the side.
I moved my stop back a foot, and lowered it to catch the boat lower and sooner.

[sailor55330]

Quick question for you guys with the bow stop blocks. My trailer has the same set up. Once you contact the block with the bow, are you done or do you need to "nudge" it tight. If I stop when the contact is solid, I'm overhanging by about 1" at the transom. My dealer set the v-block with what they called "preload". I watched them do it. They had a guy basically lift up on the boat bow and another guy push the v-block back as far as they could and then tighten it. To get the boat to sit with the transom flush, I have to "compress" the rubber on the vblock by applying some power. Winching it does nothing---I can tighten the strap until it sounds like a guitar string and the boat doesn't come forward. I know I could move the v-block forward an inch, just curious what you guys think. I also wonder the impact on tongue weigh of moving the boat 1-2" forward on the trailer.

Thanks

[whitelightning]

We winch our boat the last 1.5 feet. I installed a 3200 lb 2 speed gear reduction Fulton winch so it's not a big deal. If I totally float the boat on it never centers up right. Just deep enough but not too deep then winch it on the last little bit.