Bilge Pump

[samuri33]

I need to ask how the bilge pump works in my 2004 262. From the helm, there is a on off switch for the bilge pump. The pump works great using the switch. Today, I wanted to test the automatic float switch in the bilge to make sure the pump will run without me running it manually. I put the hull plug in and proceed to fill the hull with water. I estimated I put 40 to 50 gallons of water in the bilge. The water rose 4 or 5 inches. The bilge pump never came on automatically. I went to the helm, flipped the switch, and the pump ran flawlessly and drained the bilge. Did I not put enough water in the bilge to trip the float switch?

[Big Block Power]

I would think that would be enough. But without looking at the level to the float hard to say. I bet the float switch is bad though. I think A7 has a real easy way to test it and to get at the switch.

[Bfun220]

I would think that would be enough. But without looking at the level to the float hard to say. I bet the float switch is bad though. I think A7 has a real easy way to test it and to get at the switch.

He does, but you have to pull the motor.

[AsLan7]

I would think that would be enough. But without looking at the level to the float hard to say. I bet the float switch is bad though. I think A7 has a real easy way to test it and to get at the switch.

He does, but you have to pull the motor.

Ha. Yes pull the motor!

The float switch is most likely stuck in the down position. It shouldn’t take more than 5-6 gallons of H2O to cause the float to rise and start the pump motor. Just reach down with a long screwdriver or hangar and lift the float to test.

BTw, did you get pics of the transom filler cushions?
.

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[samuri33]

Thank you everyone. Based on what y'all said, 40 to 50 gallons was way more than enough to float the switch to test the pump. I guess I better start getting ready to pull the big block....not!

[greenhut]

I just had the same symptoms on our 2004 Bryant 232. While it could be the float switch, there may be an easier fix. The Auto power portion of the bilge pump is often wired directly to one of the batteries so the Automatic Bilge runs even with the battery switch off. As a result, an inline fuse is typically used. See if you can trace a wire from the bilge to a battery and check the inline fuse. Mine was corroded and blown - easy fix.

[Driller]

I just had the same symptoms on our 2004 Bryant 232. While it could be the float switch, there may be an easier fix. The Auto power portion of the bilge pump is often wired directly to one of the batteries so the Automatic Bilge runs even with the battery switch off. As a result, an inline fuse is typically used. See if you can trace a wire from the bilge to a battery and check the inline fuse. Mine was corroded and blown - easy fix.

Great advise

[samuri33]

I just had the same symptoms on our 2004 Bryant 232. While it could be the float switch, there may be an easier fix. The Auto power portion of the bilge pump is often wired directly to one of the batteries so the Automatic Bilge runs even with the battery switch off. As a result, an inline fuse is typically used. See if you can trace a wire from the bilge to a battery and check the inline fuse. Mine was corroded and blown - easy fix.

Thanks! Now that you say that, I think there are fuses as you mention under one of my seats next to my battery switch. If mama let's me go down to the boat Today, I'll check them and let you know. Thanks!

[greenhut]

Not familiar with the 262, but would most likely be a straight run from the pump, through an inline fuse, to the battery. Doubt it would route to the battery switch area (although I am basing this on my knowledge of the R5). I would start by checking the positive side of both batteries for a high gauge (relatively thin) wire with an inline fuse right at the battery. If you find one, check if it is blown - if it is, good chance thats the auto bilge power. If you dont find fuses close to one of the batteries, try to trace power wires from the bilge pump. My 2004 Bryant had an old style glass inline fuse - easy to miss if they are taped over as they arent too much thicker than the power cable.

If you do find it blown, replace it, and if it still doesn't work, check if it has blown again. This happened to me. I had to replace with a slightly larger fuse. Guessing my older bilge pump is a bit clogged and drawing more current. Good luck!

[samuri33]

I would think that would be enough. But without looking at the level to the float hard to say. I bet the float switch is bad though. I think A7 has a real easy way to test it and to get at the switch.

He does, but you have to pull the motor.

Ha. Yes pull the motor!

The float switch is most likely stuck in the down position. It shouldn’t take more than 5-6 gallons of H2O to cause the float to rise and start the pump motor. Just reach down with a long screwdriver or hangar and lift the float to test.

BTw, did you get pics of the transom filler cushions?
.

.

Good evening A7! The guy with the cushions said he'd call this weekend, haven't heard from him yet, gonna email him. When you had you engine out, did you see an inline fuse for the bilge pump. Someone mention that below. I tried to use a long screw driver to lift the float switch, but I couldn't reach it. I need a smaller person, I'm too big to reach it. I doubt you'd have to pull an engine to work on the pump. I'd imagine that's what the pump and float switch are mounted to thay black plate. Wouldn't you agree?

[AsLan7]

He does, but you have to pull the motor.

Ha. Yes pull the motor!

The float switch is most likely stuck in the down position. It shouldn’t take more than 5-6 gallons of H2O to cause the float to rise and start the pump motor. Just reach down with a long screwdriver or hangar and lift the float to test.

BTw, did you get pics of the transom filler cushions?
.

.

Good evening A7! The guy with the cushions said he'd call this weekend, haven't heard from him yet, gonna email him. When you had you engine out, did you see an inline fuse for the bilge pump. Someone mention that below. I tried to use a long screw driver to lift the float switch, but I couldn't reach it. I need a smaller person, I'm too big to reach it. I doubt you'd have to pull an engine to work on the pump. I'd imagine that's what the pump and float switch are mounted to thay black plate. Wouldn't you agree?

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Hey S33.
I did not see the in line fuse.
BBP was joking with the engine pull. It was in reference to my 2017 overheat issue.

How about a wire hangar and flashlight ?
Reach down from the starboard side.

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[samuri33]

Ha. Yes pull the motor!

The float switch is most likely stuck in the down position. It shouldn’t take more than 5-6 gallons of H2O to cause the float to rise and start the pump motor. Just reach down with a long screwdriver or hangar and lift the float to test.

BTw, did you get pics of the transom filler cushions?
.

.

Good evening A7! The guy with the cushions said he'd call this weekend, haven't heard from him yet, gonna email him. When you had you engine out, did you see an inline fuse for the bilge pump. Someone mention that below. I tried to use a long screw driver to lift the float switch, but I couldn't reach it. I need a smaller person, I'm too big to reach it. I doubt you'd have to pull an engine to work on the pump. I'd imagine that's what the pump and float switch are mounted to thay black plate. Wouldn't you agree?

.
Hey S33.
I did not see the in line fuse.
BBP was joking with the engine pull. It was in reference to my 2017 overheat issue.

How about a wire hangar and flashlight ?
Reach down from the starboard side.

.

I'll try again, I can get close enough to see the float switch, I'm too big!

[greenhut]

You can try hitting it with an aggressive stream of water from a hose...

[TTU]

You can try hitting it with an aggressive stream of water from a hose...

This is the closest thing to my normal practices. "I will spray it harder!!!! Does it work now?" lol

[samuri33]

You can try hitting it with an aggressive stream of water from a hose...

I like the way you think!